Jump to content

Unlucky8Ball

Members
  • Content Count

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Unlucky8Ball


  1. Hi all,

     

    Got a C4 behind a 302 Windsor in an XP that's playing up, and want to swap it out for a single rail 4spd.

     

    I've heard that that the Clevo bellhousing fits a Windsor, can I use the whole lot from a donor car including the flywheel and everything? Do I need a different trans crossmember, and did any single rails for V8 come with a cable clutch?

     

    Cheers


  2. I'll get around the checking where TDC sits soon, but I was inspecting the distributor just then and noticed that there's a hissing sound (like a vacuum leak) coming from it - it stops at certain points in the distributor's adjustment.

     

    It's a TFI distributor, so no vacuum advance.

     

    Could this have something to do with it?


  3. Hi everyone,

     

    My EFI ZL has a weird thing going on with the ignition timing, it's had a rough idle since I bought it which I thought was a vacuum leak.

     

    Tested for it and replaced all the vacuum accessory lines but no luck.

     

    Then I took it onto a freeway with a full car and noticed it was pinging pretty hard, and soon enough the temperature gauge hit the top end and had to pull over.

     

    Checked at home with a timing light, and the timing mark is so far advanced it's off the scale. But when I adjusted it to be 10 degrees at idle with SPOUT connector off, it barely even idles when in D with the brakes held down.

     

    Haven't owned an EFI car before, and have no clue what controls the ignition timing or what could cause it to do this. Bad distributor? ECU?

     

    Cheers


  4. This is my first how to - no guarantees, no liability, blah blah. Just wanted to share what I figured out.

     

    NOTE: These instructions assume that your central locking system works - or at least, well enough that the DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK switch on the driver's door will lock/unlock all the doors.

     
    The key switches in the doors are a common point of failure, and a bad key switch will prevent the whole central locking system from functioning. An easy workaround is to connect the green and white wires in the key-switch plug to each other, bypassing the key switch.
    xOOq4gF.jpg
     
    First, get a keyless entry kit. I got this el-cheapo kit for under $20 from eBay - you don't need one with actuators, since it will be spliced into the factory wiring.
    XfkaHVL.jpg
     
    (1) Remove the driver's door switch panel to make some modifications to the DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK switch:
     
    ( a ) Cut the two metal strips joining the window switches to the lock switch
    ( b ) Cut the metal strip joining the two corner pins of the lock switch.
    ( c ) Join the other (window switch side) ends of the two metal strips cut in step (a) with a wire or something.
    Cw01QGa.jpg
     
    ( d ) Attach new wires to the two corner pins of the lock switch (these will go to the keyless module)

    y6MSNuu.jpg

     

     
    (2) Run a length of figure-eight wire from the driver's kick panel to the driver's door switch panel, and connect them to the new wires added in ( d ) using whatever connectors are handy. I used the speaker cable grommet holes to feed the wire through.
     
    (3) For this kit, the wiring on the remote box side is done according to the instructions for a "Central Lock Motor (Two Wire)". Refer to the wiring colours in your keyless entry kit's instructions, as they may be different.
     
    In my case, I connected the red, yellow/black and blue wires to a +12V source (the yellow wire behind the boot release switch) and the black, green and grey cables to ground.
    gU7kvgE.jpg
     
    The yellow and brown cables connect up to the two cores of the figure-eight wire added in (2). If the door locking and unlocking buttons on your remote do the wrong thing, swap the two wires around.
     
    (4) The boot release feature on the remote box grounds the orange wire coming out of it. As the actual boot release switch on the car needs +12v fed into the purple wire, wire up a relay as follows, and splice it into the purple wire behind the boot release switch:
    arOl6hY.jpg
    G5rWAT9.jpg
     
    (5) Wire the two purple wires (+12v output for flashing indicator) to the indicator wires under the steering column - green and green/blue.
    H2SwvKm.jpg
     
    Then tuck everything in the kick panel and you're good to go!
    Jp9lkaM.jpg

  5. Cheers mate, will keep an eye out for that. Is it normal for the aircon system in these old cars to need regassing just because of age?

     

    The rear window motors have pretty much rusted together, car was left out in the weather for ages - tried running 12v direct to them and not even a single click.


  6. Hi,

     

    I'm on my third X-series (an 85 ZL, had a 92 XF ute and an 88 ZL before), and none of them had working aircon.

     

    The rear windows don't work on this ZL and can get stuffy on hot days so am thinking of getting the aircon fixed/re-gassed, but are there any common problems that stop it from working that I need to keep in mind?

     

    Wouldn't want it to get re-gassed only to find there are other problems or it just leaks all away.

     

    Also, any recommended shops in Sydney close to the city?

     

    Cheers


  7. Thanks Dave, traced the vacuum line back up and it went to the fuel pressure regulator, which was leaking and spitting fuel into the vacuum line. Would explain why it was idling rough too with sucking up that extra fuel.

     

    Cheers!


  8. I recently bought a cheap rough EFI ZL Fairlane, and the engine bay has a petrol smell to it. Looked around the engine and saw this leak coming out of the piping on the right side of the engine, near cylinder #4 and think it could be the source of the problem.

     

    I've never had an EFI Crossflow before, and am not sure what this is. Can anyone name the part it's leaking from?

     

    6gNq9Fj.jpg

×