Ando81

Thanks for the suggestions lads. I forgot ho mention that it’s currently on EST dizzy with hardened dizzy gear. I’m told that it’s got a temp sensor in the manifold that changed timing until it’s warmed up. Is that correct? Also I’d have to bridge the plug to check correct timing myself too wouldn’t I?

Hi all, I’m looking for someone to help me with a good LPG tune for my xf ute. It’s a crossflow that’s been rebuilt recently with higher compression and a small cam, running straight gas via a 225 mixer and EFI manifold. I’m wondering who I should go to, I’m in central Victoria but would be happy to travel to a reputable Mechanic. What cost would be involved in a dyno tune? Is a dyno tune critical or not? I’m looking for good torque and reasonable economy. It seems to be heavy on gas at the moment using about 40 + litres for 265 kms. I’d appreciate any input.

 

 

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Just see if the door locks ok from inside, I fixed a door mechanism on my brother’s xg a few years back and the door locking part wasn’t right when his mechanism was playing up.

I’m wondering if a spring in the inside mechanism might be stuffed and not making it properly latch onto the striker when the door shuts onto it.

Check your door hinges and pins mate, I’ve always kept a small amount of grease on the striker and they seem to do a lot of work and don’t show big signs of wear

Oh what a pain in the arse, hopefully someone on here will be able to help you out or show you where to find some.

Maybe Eb falcon are the same mate, I know the latch mechanism inside an xg door is the same as eb. I didn’t know xg strikers were different to the xf ones, never looked closely.

10-50 seconds is no biggie.
 
So you go to start it next morning or whatever and the lifter is empty and sits there clacking away.
 
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Thanks Gerg, this is exactly what it’s doing. It just annoys me that it sounds like a clapped out old crossflow on start up. Everything is fine at operating temp so like you said probably just a bit of crap allowing it to drain out overnight. I can leave it for my 8 hour shift at work and it starts fine but once I’ve turned it off and it sits for 12 hours or more then it becomes noisy. Maybe the crap will become free one day and it will be all good again

Is it a digital XF cluster you're referring to?

If it's a freshly built xflow I would've gone a 15W-40 or 15W-60 (Ford recommended 15W-40 when they were new). In saying that I've ran 20W-60 in my wagon with no issue since I had it and that had only 120,000kms when I got it

Yes, digital xf xluster I did consider thinner oil when I did the engine rebuild but my other xf seems to love HPR 30 so I thought I’d keep them both on the same oil

That’s an awesome explanation mate, thanks very much for sharing My digital gauge concerns me when it sits on only 2 bars at idle but I don’t think I fully trust the gauge. Sometimes I can be cruising along the flat freeway and the gauge goes from about halfway then almost reaches its highest point but drops back down to halfway for no apparent reason. All the same load and speed without running up or down any hills. Anyway, thanks for the help

I ran the engine in with very light run in oil then went straight to Penrite Hpr30 20w60 oil. The fella that assembled my engine said he was going to modify the oil pump to give it more flow but I don’t think he did, it seems to have low oil pressure at idle in warm weather going by my digital instrument cluster. I would try thinner oil but was worried about it not having good oil pressure once warmed up or is my theory all wrong, feel free to advise me on the topic of oil weight and it’s influence on oil pressure. Thanks for the feedback

Hey all, I’ve got a quick question about a noisy lifter in my crossflow. It’s only done about 20000km on a rebuild and it’s developed a lifter noise on cold start up that only lasts about 10-15 seconds. The engine seems to miss slightly until the lifter fills with oil. One day when I changed the oil I managed to leave the old oil filter seal on the block when I put the new filter on I didn’t see it when I screwed the new filter on but as soon as I started the engine I could hear it squirting oil out for 5-10 seconds before shit down. I’m wondering if this starved the engine of oil for long enough to damage a lifter or possibly the cam. I’m hoping it might be a lazy lifter draining oil out over night but am doubtful. I would appreciate any thoughts, no need to slap me on the back of the head because I feel stupid enough

I really hope that you can sort out your problem by changing the water pump & gasket mate. I get frustrated by seeing things put on an engine that is obviously incorrect, it could cost the customer a tonne of money if the engine builder gets it wrong but it still happens from time to time. It would be like fitting 12slot mags on a Nissan skyline, obviously wrong so why bother bolting it up

+1 for the ignition timing, I’ve heard it causing a lot of people trouble keeping their clevo’s cool

I’m wondering if the pistons are 6-8cc pistons, not 6-8thou.

Great to hear you found the problem mate. There’s always plenty of help on here to resolve annoying little issues

Is it low cranking voltage? I’ve heard if the battery is sad that it won’t have enough power to give spark and injector pulse. Best of luck with it

That sticker that says scrap if dropped isn’t a good sign

Mate, I don’t want to sound like a boring old man but those globes suit it fine in my opinion. With a bit of polish on the alloy they would look sexy as hell. But that’s just my opinion

I’ve heard that the first gear bearings don’t like burnouts. Just use second gear for skids, then third and fourth

I’ve been told that if there is no gas in the system then it won’t let the clutch engage to drive the compressor. Doesn’t the gas have oil in it to help lubricate the compressor therefore if it ran without gas it could do damage to it. Someone may have to confirm this but I’m 80% sure that it’s correct.

I’ve heard of camshaft wearing and not driving the distributor correctly, I wonder if it’s jumped a tooth at some stage when you turned the engine off. Crossflow engines can wear the fuel pump lobe off the cam therefore stop fuel being pumped into the car by but you said it was pumping fuel in didn’t you? I’d be double checking that you have cylinder 1 on top dead centre using a cable tie or something on top of the piston then see where the timing is set at. This is an odd one that’s for sure

If it cranks reasonably quick then I’d rule out the battery but I’m really no expert on the topic. Has it got points in the distributor?

I think I’ve heard of a resistor coil only operating on 8v but can’t be 100% sure. If you get a mate to crank the car and check voltage of the battery it will probably drop to 10 or so volts. This may not prove anything but may surprise you as to how low the volts drop during cranking.