Ando81

I’ve got a dual battery system in 2 of my utes and they use this dual battery isolator. They have an override button on the isolator that connects starting battery to auxiliary battery if starting battery dies on you. My xf ute has an N70 lead acid battery in the tub and I’ve used this feature to start my crossflow many times. I’ve also got the same isolator in a Px Ranger 3.2 litre diesel and my 85ah auxiliary battery has jump started it using the isolator override feature. So simple and fast, I couldn’t suggest an easier solution

Well done

Without sounding negative mate I think I’d be running some heat wrap on the cable being so close to the V8 exhaust. The inner cable has a plastic liner that could melt from the heat.

Thanks Ando81 , My Diffs workd very well when it needs to right now. There must be some Hydras lying around in wrecking yards or on shelves somewhere. When you say you wheeled the houseing under do you mean the Whole diff from hub to hub or just the internals? Thanks.

Yeah whole housing hub to hub

Outback utes had the hydratrak lsd mate. There’s not a lot of those around these days though

If you’re not concerned about if being a hydratrak then you could fit a standard Borg Warner lsd housing into it. I wheeled an xh xr6 lsd housing under my 92 xf ute for better ratio and to have lsd. It was a great upgrade

Ha ha, you’re not crazy mate. She doesn’t have it. I’m always glad to help out when I can

This is an xf heater control without A/C. The circled area is where A/C control would be if the car had Air conditioning. What is your car?

This is an xf heater control without A/C. The circled area is where A/C control would be if the car had Air conditioning. What is your car?

Yeah, they all have hot/cold knob but ones with air conditioning have A/C towards the top of the hot/cold control knob.

Close, they’re the ATC lines. Automatic transmission cooler lines. They run through the radiator to help cool the transmission. The A/C lines will be on the opposite side of the engine. Driver’s side and a belt off the big pulley on the bottom of the engine runs to the A/C compressor Its located under the Alternator.

Looking at your harmonic balancer pulley it doesn’t appear to have an A/C belt on it. Maybe your car didn’t have A/C

I got my xf reflectors done at the place in Melbourne about 5 years ago. Someone on this forum told me the company that does them. I remember a fella telling me that WB holden headlight reflectors are very similar to xd or xe. Not that they’d be easy to come by these days either.

That’s really cool Gary. Thanks for sharing the pic and the story that goes with it

I purchased an xd fairmont years ago that had the York compressor and R12 gas in it. I’ve never had a/c as cold as that car since. It was that good in fact that I thought it was blowing smoke out of it on one particularly humid day. I took it to the local garage after a hasty panic to remove the battery lead. The mechanic laughed and said it was moisture droplets forming as the cold air met the hot humid air in the car. We were both very impressed with how well the R12 was working

Fucking poor form when they rip off anyone mate, let alone a pensioner. When you don’t have a clue, go to Lew’s

I’m glad you found the problem but I’m worried about the possible damage I wonder if it’ll perform ok with the new ecu now that it’s reading correctly and doing everything ok.

That’s very similar to mine dean. My sedan has some chrome under the bonnet so I got it made out of stainless as I couldn’t weld stainless at the time. I made my ute one out of mild steel and painted it white

That cap n rotor is the same as the efi cap n rotor on my crossflow. The ignition module on the side looks like an xf unit but I could be wrong.

Sam Simmons' older brother who has more hair

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I think Paul is the funnier older brother

Keep the updates coming mate, we’re keen to see what’s causing the issue

It’s a common thing for them to lock up. They fail to free spin and really roar which only robs power and wastes fuel. The fan hub should undo with a 32mm spanner and it’s left hand thread. The hub removes from the fan with 4 bolts and you just put a new hub inside of the fan. I’m not sure how hard the fan hub is to buy these days but I think CHESTNUTXE might have one that he was willing to give away.

Don’t feel bad mate, wasn’t your fault

Ha ha, I wasn’t sure if it was you or Campo that I got it off. I think if the welder has too many amps going into the weld it is more likely to make the weld pull the surrounding material out of shape. Good luck, hopefully this time it works out nicely for you

 
do i need to space the rocker cover if i modify it? 
 
 

Just be careful modifying the rocker cover. I bought a modified one and it had warped out of shape when it was welded. Someone had cut out the lower section and welded in a flat piece on so it went straight across. The heat from the welding had pulled the front of the cover upwards and the rear slightly upwards also.

Thanks for the input lads, after talking to a few people about my consumption figures and everything else it does I will probably leave it as it is for now. I might take it away for a fishing weekend soon and see how consumption improves with highway travel. I’ve got new plugs and leads to put on it but can’t really justify adding MSD to it as I’ve heard it can get expensive.

Yeah I think a fella told me that a 2 wire dizzy would be better, just less that goes on with them but I don’t know enough about both to decide to change it out or not.