Ando81

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone has an aftermarket cruise control kit fitted to their falcons. I was considering putting one on my xf. I don't mind fitting it up myself but am wondering if they are good, bad or not worth the time to fit them etc. I'm all ears so fire away

I might have one of those sensors if you get the part number off it. For memory I think it's a 10mm bolt that holds it into the backing plate of the brake rotor. I've taken them out of the 95 model diff I've got to put into my xf sedan. Yours free if it's suitable

Tyres looked ok but they must have been pretty old to let go like that, might be a good time to check the age of your tyres. Look for the date stamp on the side wall and it tells you the week and year that they were made. I bought some cheap tyres a while ago that were brand new but the local tyre fitter wouldn't fit them coz they were more than 7 years old. They said after 7 years air and sunlight can break down the rubber and make it unsafe.

Hi all, as the title suggests I think I have got a cracked piston. I bought this engine that was supposed to be rebuilt 50000km ago. It was an R.P.M Engines job and it has +.040 Pistons in it but I reckon the top of number 1 piston has a crack in it. I took the head off to replace the gasket and discovered the damage. Can anyone confirm that it's definitely a crack or could it be something else. Cheers

Hi all, this is probably a simple question but I've been considering a 4 litre conversion in my xf ute and it's on gas. Was wondering if I could adapt a gas research throttle body to an ea centre point inlet manifold. A mate of mine has a 500 holley on a centre point manifold on an ea motor in his speedway car and it's got plenty of power but I do a few kilometers in my ute so need gas for the fuel economy. I thought I could run modified xf dizzy and coil on an au motor. Am happy to hear your input positive or negative. Thanks lads.

I'm keen to see it running too, still waiting to get it back from the machine shop that was busy and now closed over Christmas so I will be getting straight into it when I get it back.

My omvl re90 is exactly doing that, chewing gas and making no power

I've left it in the hands of the machine shop to see what they think is the best, I'm hoping to go straight gas and 3:23 gears behind a t5 so hopefully it will be an average improvement on the old stocky

I haven't measured bore size but as FORD-MAN on here told me, my Pistons are + .040 so they are 3.72inch and as far as I know it's all standard deck height.

So that difference in height will lower my compression then won't it?

So the machine shop guru suggested I go for 5cc pistons to knock some compression out of it and guessed that it would be 10.6 to 10.8 compression ratio. He seems like a very genuine bloke, not trying to upsell me shit that I don't need or convince me to spend huge amount of money on go fast parts. He said to just do all the internal parts properly to make it reliable and then play with other stuff like exhaust and extractors at a later date. Dropped it off tonight and already getting keen to pick it up like an expectant father

Did I mention that I'm going straight gas with this motor? Can I get away with higher comp with gas? And I am well aware that some gas is way better quality than other suppliers.

All comments taken on board thanks lads. I might let the machine shop decide for me. I reckon my calculations may be wrong as that number seems pretty high to me.

So I put in the figures into a calculator and with a 50 cc E2 head it said my compression ratio with flat top Pistons would be 11.5:1 Does that sound about right and would it be ok for a 208@50 cam with 110 degree lobe separation?

Thanks mate, I'll have to get around to measuring the head and do the sums. Great link too by the way

The bloke at the machine shop is going to double check it all for me. He's done quite a few warm crossies for speedway blokes and seems to know his shit. From what you're saying, I now understand why he insisted he looked at my cylinder head and cam specs before he would put the pistons in for me. He must be going to cc the chambers in the head before he makes a ticking time bomb. Thanks for the handy tip mate

Ha ha, some plumbers would need a lot of wet & dry to remove the crack

Thanks for the input lads, I've decided that Dave's right. My local machine shop can pull out the old cam bearings and check the Pistons, rods and crank. I will do a hone job and throw new rings & bearings in while its stripped. It would be a waste of money to go so far and not check the last few rotating parts for wear. Don't want to be throwing money away if it did happen to go bang!

I'll throw a photo up later when I finish work, I'm told the bearings are all the same size but can't be sure. The damage has chipped a section off the bottom of the bearing.

Just wondering if anyone has changed their cam bearings at home before? I went to install my new cam and the reasonably new cam bearing seems to have been damaged either by me removing the old cam or by the engine rebuilders when the cam was installed. Can only really see damage on the front bearing but would rather replace the four of them just to be sure. I have the engine on a stand but don't have a cam bearing puller.

I'm pretty sure you've knocked the nail on the head there mate! Well done

I'm glad he didn't recommend for me to stroke it

Till it looks like chrome?

The photos don't show it really well Ando76, but I reckon you're on the money, I should confirm that it's all good.