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Mixalis

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Posts posted by Mixalis

  6. Posted

    Oh and broken-wheel I'm currently running big comp as well and have not had any issues recently ever since putting it on a dyno and checking A/F ratios and putting in a very very conservative base timing figure. Unfortunately i have no idea what my dizzy is graphed too as I'm running the same one when bought the car all those years ago and being high comp its very sensitive to changes in timing, for that reason I've picked conservative for now. 

     

    In saying that still did 166rwhp through a BW35 that was on its way out, probably closer to 180rwhp with the single rail now and thats with a baby  214@0.05" 0.510" cam and no aftermarket ignition so pretty happy atm. Good to hear you're not having any troubles either

  7. Posted

    Ok thanks for the info fellas I appreciate it as always. These are the couple of things that i left alone when we assembled my one a few years back cause my equipment worked, so about time i get a bit more familiar with this as well. 

     

    Yep sounds like the best way Ando no point in guessing so that will be on the cards. Ill be picking up this motor off my mate as i could definitely use the alloy head sometime in the future and hopefully the dizzy as well if it is the EST one. 

     

    Anyway back to this, when you guys say unmarked head are you referring to the iron head or is there a series of unmarked alloy heads? 

     

    Also Ando have had a bit of a read through some of your ignition related posts, is the EST one you prefer over the TFI or more that the EST is as good/almost as good as TFI?

     

    Cheers for the help again hopefully can provide some more info as i figure it all out

  8. Posted

    Thank you very much lenners, now all I need to find is the approximate cc of iron heads. I'm currently running way too much compression cause of a mistake on my end when j ordered flat top Pistons and was thinking if I could upgrade to an alloy head eventually if I could drop the compression at the same time it'll be a win win

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. Posted

    Hi guys quick questions, want to grab mates crossflow motor out of a carby XF, it's got a C1 A head. What's the cc of those chambers and also what's the cc of the chambers on an iron head?

     

    Also the dizzy in it is that an EST one? Didn't look like it had the module for it tk be a TFI one. The EST ones much better than the electronic one I have now (out of an XE from memory)?

     

    Cheers boys

    Michael

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. Posted

    Thats awesome Jase so consistent, noticed the MPH is going up as well! Good to hear its the quickest and fastest DOHC n/a as well, not surprised. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that thing would be eligible for All-Motor and Jambo and that should be heading your way next right? The consistency is ridiculous and the majority of the other cars in it have a clutch, this thing would be a serious contender! Don't think a Ford has ever won All-Motor yet aye?

    TF_250, MNTL.XD, ricktewagon and 1 other reacted to this

  14. Posted

    First build should be a trial and learn.A first big build is a STEEEEEEEP learning curve and TBH way to much shit going on in here to process.Just build somthing and start driving learning with it cos I'll bet my balls you won't be happy with prob the first 3 attempts. Each one will be able to be done better but dropping it all on the first shot and then breaking it thru a rookie error you didn't know about is not a nice thought.Simple shit like dialling in the camshaft can take 30mins or 5hrs but maybe 25% of people actually do it. 

     

    Just saying...Rob    

     

    This again ^ ^ very good advice. Start simple and build up, sure it may cost you more time changing the combo and pulling it apart a few times, but you spread the $$ and time over a few years and it pays off in the end. One, you get the experience from mucking round with it and trying a few different things along the way, and two you don't risk throwing all that money in the bin after your big dollar first engine you decide to build goes south. 

     

    Ive completely disassembled the motor only once so this is my first engine, i learnt the hard way flat tops and mild cams do not mix, and instantly get worried whenever my hand goes near the dizzy to muck around with that timing. But hey motor is simple and still together after a couple of years, had a shitload of fun and have a much better idea what to do round 2 (or round 10 considering all the little things that have changed over the years). 

     

    Get stuck in it, have some fun, take a break to reflect, enjoy it, then worry about the motors next step. Everyone wishes they could go back and put that bigger cam in or dial back some comp, but thats just the benefit of hindsight...

    XPT, Nath, slydog and 2 others reacted to this

  16. Posted

    Yeh Ive had 25 spline through my first 2.92 open centre, then 2.92 LSD and now 3.45 LSD (last two are the same diff) and they've held up fine, mine doesn't make too much power tho 166rwhp thru a BW35 so idk maybe 210-220hp engine? thats with about 15 or so passes thrru them all together plus street driving where i generally take care of it well. Like Rob said tho auto loads em up and gets rid of that 'snap action' so to speak. Mines half way thru a single rail conversion tho so should be interesting to see what difference it makes. 

    slydog and Slinkyfox reacted to this

  18. Posted

    Just an update for those still interested, i hope this link works, anyway the rundown:

    https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=901370843206896

     

    From AussieSpeed:

    "For any one interested, 2 very rare engines will soon be for sale. These are 2 of just 14 ever built. The sale has nothing to do with us we have been asked if we can assist with making it public that the first ever DOHC Crossflow triple weber Krogdahl 250 engine is for sale It isn't cheap but is a real piece of history. The engine has been rebuilt and comes complete mounted on an engine stand and is running."

    "    Ok Bob is Asking $65,000 for the engine, it is a lot of money and a lot of engine and it was also the first engine ever built and run.it has 3xdcoe webers , twin distributor ignition system, many internal mods to engine, revs to 10,000 rpm it has been freshly rebuilt. Who ever buys it will get the full Krogdahl storey from Bob the Genius Himself. Plus the option to buy all tooling to reproduce the heads again. You are buying more than just an engine, you are buying a piece of History..

     

    "

    SPArKy_Dave and Thom reacted to this

  19. Posted

    Definitely can back up what ando said about the sensitivity of ignition timing. I moved the timing 2 degrees and although made around 4 or 6 rwhp peak (can't remember exactly), I got an average of 26rwhp throughout the good part of the rev range, albeit on a high comp motor so it was very sensitive

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    gerg reacted to this

  22. Posted

    Hello all,

     

    Quick confirmation needed, going to get good quality ARP bolts for my flex plate to converter (replace the 4 i have). Im pretty sure these are the ones and not sure what the difference is between the two, but anyway are these the ones:

     

    http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=32

     

    OR

     

    http://store.440source.com/ARP-Bolt-Kit-6-bolt-Flexplate-to-Crank/productinfo/129-1003/

     

    Read somewhere that we use the same as Chevy 7/16, but yeh these the ones?

     

    Cheers

     

  23. Posted

    Thanks for that Dave yeh you're right mate will be doing exactly that then. A good balancer and new bolts are an essential either way so yep car is off the road then until I grab those parts, at the very least, and if it needs to come out (which by the sounds of it) for another balance then so be it, better than more damage...

     

    The funny (or not so much) part of it is that I specifically remember the guy saying "I was surprised how balanced it was, didn't need to do much at all"

     

    On a side not while we are here, have done abit of research just want another opinion, going to a manual will definitely need the flywheel to be balanced with the rest of the motor wouldn't it? Slapping on a manual as it is, the flywheel will knock it out of balance correct??

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  24. Posted

    Well definitely didn't want to hear that... Pretty irritating since the engine was balanced and i doubt its even got 2000km on it since the rebuild. Dave had a read of your whole post on the other forum as well. Seems pretty clear what the process of elimination should be from here and yeh to answer your qtn the revs were not exactly big relative to what you made in the post, just on the upper end of where this cam stops making power (hard to tell as tacho goes a bit happy 4500+). Thanks for taking the time to respond though

     

    Thinking of grabbing some new ARP 7/16" flex plate to converter bolts (these are the ones right?), cleaning the thread out and grabbing some loctite. My manual says torque to 41nm, what do you guys do? Thinking of getting this done first just incase the problem lies on the simple end or incase i haven't done the bolts up tight enough. 

     

    If that doesn't work, then move on to a good balancer, and if its not that, then engine is out. 

     

    Sensing there will be some disagreement though going through the process...  

     

    Will accept defeat if its the bottom end out of balance but just a tough pill to swallow at the moment since the engine was just balanced and has felt very smooth. But have noted down everything you blokes have said so far, please add in any more thoughts/opinions

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