Mixalis

Thanks for the replies, apologies I never replied we worked it out the day after and I forgot I made this thread lol, it had that screamer pipe sound so we went thru the bolts on the turbo side, one was loose, nipped it up and noise was gone

Thanks for that tho

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Hi guys

This one is non ford related but figured someone here might be able to point us in the right direction. Long story short, mum was driving the Subaru Outback turbo diesel 2010 model, went to go up a hill and bang. Black smoke everywhere behind the car, No power so pulled over. Roadside guy came and had a good look over it all and said inter cooler pipe from turbo to cooler had disintegrated on the turbo end (not blown off!) which didn't make any sense.

Got it dropped off at the repair center, they said pipe was fine but oil everywhere, no power, smoke so most likely blown turbo. Long story short they didn't want to touch it so cars back at ours

Pulled some of it apart, pipe is in fact cracked clean apart along where it goes into turbo, thinking hot oil after all that time made it frail until it disintegrated. The pic below shows the cooler end, those fins you see there had all slowly come apart from turbo end and the hose tore straight off from there. No hose clamp was found so still debatable if there is meant to be one there ?

Dad went to wreckers to get new one, brought our one with him but replacement they had had a flange on the turbo end?? Brought it back home but pretty sure after looking st it properly there was definitely no flange on turbo side so will be taking it back. In the meantime we've done a bodgy connection quickly from our turbo pipe to turbo so it's as sealed as we can get it for now (still builds boost so it's holding up) just for inspections sake. Now makes this weird screeching sound at 2000rpm and gets louder....

Have a look at the video below, out at the moment so will be more specific when I get back home, basically wanted to know if there are any ideas??? Doesn't sound like a blown turbo but we're pretty stump

Cheers guys!

https://vimeo.com/193022277

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Hahaha go chuck a liberty behind the crossy ando and give him a run in the corty, he's 48ci short mate you should have this

Just went 9.9 N/A 202, also was 4mph down on the 9 second pass. Incredible stuff!

I got mine from Robbos before my local one closed but Bursons carries the same stock so would be looking at Bursons

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What Gerg said that's what I've been told too, I'm running 510" on standard crossy rocker but that's as far as I would go tbh.

Not sure if it had anything to do with it, but I had a pushrod slip straight off the rocker with this setup. But then again, when I went to pick up a spare rod from wrecker the bloke managed to guess exactly which cylinder and port it slipped off and reckons it's a common thing so maybe not

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That looks awesome greg so that bolts up to your average Holley 4 barrel manifold I'm assuming?

Borg Warner 35 (BW35)

No one is really a fan of it at all so ill warn you first lol

This article came up on engine labs and thought i would post it up, doesn't have a crazy amount of info like a lot of other articles they do but still might be interesting to a few of us here. Also considering a few of the fast crossflow guys here also use this balancer if I'm not mistaken; maybe they could throw up a little info as well incase anyone needs the info in the future. Enjoy:

http://www.enginelabs.com/news/quick-tech-ati-performance-dampers/

Good info boys good to hear we should be sweet with the lengths then

Well done bud and yes the bigger the spark the better the power output but also every other aspect of it improves. Starts better,gets better milage,revs better,makes more HP there is no downside.  

Cheers rob looking forward to some more tuning as theres a lot of improvement to go

Nice. Only suggestion I have. Move the coil way closer to the dizzy. I would think that there would be a very measurable voltage drop between the coil and dizzy in current form. Crazy or one of the electrical heads on here maybe able to confirm.

Thanks Ando, definitely keen to hear some thoughts on this. Might take the car out tonight its been a couple of weeks and need to take a break from this screen

Well I finished this up a few weeks back, haven't had time to drive the car more than a couple of laps, but thought I'd post the update and pics. Once again thanks for the help guys, special thanks to Greg for the message bouncing back and forth. Overall, completely different motor as expected. Most notably, there is no comparison below 2500rpm drivability due to the multi spark, every stumbling issue is pretty much gone. Secondly, motor no longer breaks down at 4800rpm, now just goes straight to the 5500rpm limiter like nothing, direct result of CDI & big coil vs 'standard' inductive & coil. Cranking retard means car starts easy plus the million other features I'm yet to use on the box but will be for sure.

Will be creating two maps for now (hot and cold conditions) until i wire up a switch and load the 'hot' map under the nitrous retard function. The All in timing atm is at 27 degree @ 5000rpm (cold conditions) and still no pinging, but i think thats where ill leave it for now as I have a feeling its probably just about to approach the peak where gains are little and detonation is next. Now its just up to setting up the rest of the curve from idle below maximum timing and get the entire mid range torque right up as its still on the 'get it going' timing map. Also put it all together in a way that the tuning is done from the passenger seat so no need to pop the bonnet anymore! Definitely a worthwhile upgrade as everyone here has stated, even if its just a simple street fire setup, the CDI box with a decent coil changes the whole engine up and I was lucky to get the equipment here at a price i couldn't refuse. Enjoy the pics! 

Also interested to hear what people run. My ones a very high comp street motor that builds up a lot of cylinder temp especially after long drives/warm weather/idling for too long. Occasionally would 'run on' in these conditions with BP5's. I have now moved on to BP7's but haven't had enough seat time to test whether they foul up or have fixed the issue. I run on Premium unleaded (occasionally i octane boost it to 100). 

I know that the general rule of thumb is 1 range colder for every 75hp-100hp they say, however I've always leaned towards the alternative theory that it should be based off compression ratio. 

Yeh have seen some of their bonnets on Corty's too!

Was just about to post it up Jase haha 

Hotfiveo if the pics aren't coming up, log onto Facebook and search Brinks Performance

Also on that page they put up a video they recorded using someones potato but you can still have a listen, sounds nuts! I don't know how to move videos across to here...

Reviving from the dead for good reason, have a look at this shops setup. Not a carby but check out what he's done on the ignition side of things! 

cheers boys, the reasoning behind the 32 degrees was cause i didn't think i would need any less than 7 degrees advanced so the 32 was just so i get the full spectrum of adjustability from the MSD, but yeh i guess i could dial in the crank timing at maybe 28 but restrain myself to something lower like 23 give take after testing will leaving a few degrees of headroom if i need for any reason. 

once again broken wheel i understand the reasoning behind the alloy head thats why i have one here, I'm just doing these bits as time and funds permit, MSD is what i want to do in the immediate feature and once thats done the alloy head will start getting attention

This things way too cool, awesome development mate, also good to hear the ET Cut off just got lowered as well!

EDIT Congrats at the Kenda Radial Warz wonder how much fun that would have been chopping up cubes in a six pot

Yes correct. All timing will be put in on the crank and timing will be cut via retard curve on the Digital 7. So I'd suggest set dizzy to your maximum idle timing which TBH should be a few over max run timing then after 1300 or so drop to start your curve.

 

Make sense ?

Yep sounds spot on to me cheers Rob. Might need to get my hands on an adjustable timing light to try and dial the timing at the crank cause i can only see up to the 14 degrees on the tab. Thinking of putting around 32 or so at the crank so min. timing should be 7 degrees after MSD retard. Keen to try your theory with big advance on idle and a bit (I might start my curve at around 1000rpm cause my idle is around 800-850rpm quite a bit lower than yours) and see how the thing behaves. Exciting times ahead

Also can't forget to throw on the hardened dizzy gear on the new dizzy

Michael

Ok so this is the distributor I picked up today, am I correct in saying these have no mechanical advance built into them? All computer controlled from factory?

Cheers fellas

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You boys are all over it. Now METH - EFI - ITB's.

 

Oh yeah. Shit just got very real.

Eh got 2 out of 3... 

Should be crazy mate

I'm going to say EFI individual throttle bodies

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Cheers Greg mate keen for a cruise whenever we gotta get the Nsw section happening. And yep ended up getting that motor with the alloy head, got a C1A head now that's next on the list once the MSD is in. ATM the head is sitting on the beach just waiting!

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Yep points taken fellas looking forward to seeing how close I can get it at home first as always. Yeh ando have been battling with it for the last few years now not fun, BP 98 with 7 point octane booster (100 octane) on warmer days with low timing... AFR was around the low mid 11 mark tho on WOT when I had it on chassis dyno keeping it as much on the safe side as j could. Will keep you all updated as it comes along

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