Mixalis

Awesome then honestly can't wait to get stuck into this, got everything at home and loom is almost set up now, just missing the all important dizzy! I'm anticipating a massive difference in economy, starting and of course HP especially over the top. It's done well for the standard inductive set up and it's been begging for an ignition set up for a while. Interesting with your timing set up I think I had noticed it when you uploaded your ignition retard graph in your thread the other week. So what do you run as cranking ignition timing can I ask? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I kno there's a lot of 'unknowns' in my setup and guesswork is never good lol but they were the joys assembling your first engine as a young p plater hahaha, will be much better when round two comes along one day Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers for the replies. I had thrown the numbers into a calculator and cringe thinking about it, but let's just say it's flat tops with an iron head that I have not cc'd, and motor was rebuilt twice, once in my possession so I'm guessing two minor deck mills on the block, but pretty sure it's not zero decked or anything. Unfortunately don't have this info on me, but when I had plugged the numbers years ago into te calculator assuming standard cc iron heads and I had gotten something around the 12:1 mark. And from memory that was with certain parameters like deck and gasket thickness to my favour. But this was a few years ago I may have made a mistake with the numbers but it sure behaves like a high comp. coupled with a tiny 14892 crow cam with little overlap just spelt disaster. But you live and learn I guess and I know this now for next time ATM I run around 8 degrees on idle not sure what the all in timing is tho it's the same dizzy when j bought the car all those years ago so I had never got it graphed. Can't wait for MSD to fix that. Also looking forward to getting this alloy head built to help make it safer on compression and hopefully get a larger chamber done over what I have now assuming it can be done So turns out I know have access to an MSD 8261 HVC coil, 2 amp output, and an MSD tech has said it can be run on the street might re confirm it cause I found his post from 2012. Thanks for the help and for that explanation mr.crazy always good to grasp the concept from a technical stand point. Individual cylinder timing, yeh maybe down the track haha so many little things I need to sort out with it to make it what I want it to be Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers Ando. Yeh unfortunately combo is all I have on at the moment but have got my hands on an alloy head which ill be getting work done to and then ill put it together with some new bits and throw that on mine. Note taken good to hear some real world experience then, something to keep in mind. So will those dizzys need machining to fit into 78DA block in your experience?

Cheers Rob will bank that info. Yeh mine doesn't exactly see big kilometres, more like if i take it out theres a good chance that it might be an extended trip so I'm trying to factor that in, just trading off some HP in the process. 10rwhp gain on something that wasn't exactly cheap to begin with is nothing to sneeze at tho

No worries, managed to get a read before you cleaned it up Rob, ignitions must be a touchy subject for you broken wheel lol getting a bit worked up for no reason mate but the info was good regardless which is what I'm here for at the end of the day. Heres a comprehensive compatibility list i have found ill leave it here incase in helps anyone else in the future: http://www.msdignition.com/instructions/Products/frm29700_coil%20compability.pdf Good to see there are some 7 digital compatible HVC coils that are more geared towards extended driving which is exactly what i was looking for so will be getting one of them instead. Still curious as to why those canister types are not useable, would be good to know what the reason is. Like i said mate wasn't price, at the time i was under the impression only one type of coil was compatible which didn't sound very street friendly so was curious to see what alternatives were out there and if a canister type would be plausible. EDIT: the 2009 revised link i have posted above reckons that the MSD 8202 Blaster 2 is in fact compatible with the Digital 7 and thats straight from MSD

Hi mate thanks for response, i was aware of this but I also heard that there not very compatible for street driven cars as they generate a lot of heat. I also have spoken to someone that has run a canister coil with the Digital 7 and it has worked. Its not a matter of price its a matter of street ability and if the coils will work but one is more street friendly but won't be as 'powerful' then I'm ok with it, however if its a case of it NOT working at all then thats a problem. Again i can't see why a canister wouldn't work being run off a similar CDI box but thats why I'm here

Also while I've got you here, again i think its running massive cylinder temps and still runs on/preignites on warmer days after driving a bit, Ive gone to an NGK 7 plug and still does it, whats everyone else running? I know that the general rule is 75-100hp = 1 plug colder, i feel like it should be more cylinder temp dependant like compression ratio for example, and that site had recommended based on what i have to go like 5 ranges colder?? So i just went with 2 colder and it still does it so any input will be helpful cheers

Hi everyone reviving this thread again for some more ignition talk. Im getting ready to upgrade my one, its on a high comp mild 250 crossflow thats 99% street driven, makes good HP for what it is but its still running the standard inductive ignition from factory with standard replacement coil. Engine pretty much starts stumbling at around 4800rpm or so which is exactly what i expect of it since ignition is all standard, plus programmable ignition is something I'm looking forward to as its very sensitive to timing inputs and likes to detonate unfortunately (being high comp & iron head). Im also running the XE Chopper style dizzy which is going to get replaced. So I've got my hands on a MSD Digital 7 7530. What I'm planning on running now is an XF TFI distributor (no module) with a Master Blaster 2 coil to accompany the ignition. Again, being mainly a street driven car i don't think i necessarily want to go to a HVC coil i think the canister type should be fine (and better for coil temps) but please leave opinions if theres something I've missed. Also, is it true that the distributor will need to get machined to fit in my block (78DA block in a TE Cortina)? With the above said, please let me know if theres something I've missed and if anyone here is selling a TFI Distributor as I'm interested to buy. I think Ando you've said that the EST is basically the same halls effect dizzy and just as good? If thats the case that one will do as well Cheers everyone

That sounds the goods mate that a taller tyre than what mossy runs? The N/A crossy games about to get a shake up! Hilux diffs are similar in weight to 9"? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Insane build mate have been following! I don't think I saw it, what box, diff and tyres you planning on running?<br /><br />Loving the updates <br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys, I had noticed that the motor started leaking oil from the rocker cover after a little drive, checked the dipstick (read there was still the minimum amount left) and went to drive it straight home. As soon as i started it to go back home, it developed what sounds like lifter ticking (does it on idle, picks up with rpm, periodically disappears before returning). Got it home, dumped the oil for an oil and filter change (oil perhaps 2500km old?), noticed that it fell short of the required amount that should have been in there. Put the appropriate amount of oil in and read the dipstick then again after letting oil circulate to the filter. When the motor is full the dipstick reads a little over full (probably cause it was bent a while ago) which means that it would have been fairly low before which I'm guessing would have caused the lifters to start ticking? Anyway even with new oil, it doesn't seem to have disappeared, still does it on part throttle and picks up with rpm, sometimes disappears (or inaudible at the least) before coming back. Did 100km on the new oil btw and oil is Shell Helix mineral 20-50. Hydraulic lifters around 3-4000km old Im thinking of throwing in that Nulon Additive for lifter ticking, but thought id ask anyway incase someone has tried it or has a better idea. Ive heard putting ATF might work id rather buy the proper stuff if it works. Cheers boys BTW i can upload a video if someone think it may not even be that. EDIT: also note that the engine is very fresh recently rebuilt so at the same time maybe additives might not be the best idea, still keen for opinions though

Don't worry ando, rest assured the issue was resolved before the anal boosting conversation

Beauty and cheers again for your help mate Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys quick questions, want to grab mates crossflow motor out of a carby XF, it's got a C1 A head. What's the cc of those chambers and also what's the cc of the chambers on an iron head? Also the dizzy in it is that an EST one? Didn't look like it had the module for it tk be a TFI one. The EST ones much better than the electronic one I have now (out of an XE from memory)? Cheers boys Michael Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers for the replies fellas, have decided to go against any sort of additive and it seems to be more of a bandaid fix and don't really want to be putting any shit in the fresh motor yet. Might give it a start tomorrow then with an extra pair of ears and run through it, I'm just more worried that driving through it is going to cause some sort of premature wear that i dont want, haven't had this problem till now. Then probably go through the checks gerg put through Yeh don't think its a wiped lobe, making all of its power the same way it always has

Hi mate thanks for replying. If I was to have an uneducated guess it sounds like only one, only because of the timing intervals of the 'ticks'. Evenly spaced out between ticks has me thinking it's only one. Yep I did pop the cover off but i can definitely do it again and try that method you've got there. So if there is/are dud ones is that a symptom of a possible wiped lobe? Or that the lifter has an issue? Regarding the oil pick up, I sure hope it's not loose with the motor being recently assembled! But a possibility none the less. I have not noticed it drop oil pressure ever but when the oil was at its lowest, could the pump have been starved during a hit of acceleration momentarily and caused it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahaha loves me long time, will do mate, probably a good idea we get this stuff sorted before Sunday's cruise

Cheers Ando, you're right mate I've had numerous leaks with the tin one, even now with the rubber gasket. I have redone it with a bit of Polymar as I've heard good things but not going to hold my breath if its a design flaw. I just love the original look thats all. Anyway when it comes time to cross that bridge ill have some info handy.

Oh ok there you go. If you wanted to sort of avoid any chance of clearancing issues tho, would a 1/4" or 1/2" spacer with a rocker cover gasket on either end be a good place to start or overkill/problematic in the future? PS not a problem of mine atm, was just curious now that it has come up Cheers

Question on this, if someone was keen on using the factory tin rocker cover for appearance purposes, how much would this need to be spaced up to clear roller rockers? Im guessing this would obviously depend on the cam lift and whether or not the rollers are adjustable?

Round the 900hp mark the general consensus was from memory

Theres an EA Brock at 3:25 in that video, 4.0 SOHC that ran 12.89 i think it was

This one was sick too go to 3:25, T5 box

12.2@110mph not sure if this link will work but incase it does: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153400027702369&set=o.502690256537192&type=1&theater