Mixalis

There's a new member DOG302 handing out some likes, willing to share mate ?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There you go trust you boys to already have the down low on this one. Anymore details on it or all under wraps ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've actually got the video saved on my laptop of him racing at eastern creek down the straight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeh pretty sure he's the DOG302 bloke that ran the aspo 250 thru a toploader back in the day Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From what I've seen on Facebook I think it's a bloke name Steve Galea, I'm investigating as well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thats looks like a cool way around it

Hi guys, firstly apologies this is not a falcon or a corty, it's my 2012 Ford Focus, but I would much prefer ask you blokes here as I'm not a fan of the crowds that jump on the forums for 'newer cars' lol. In a nutshell, just a povo pack with 18,000km (prev owners bought new and never drove it, picked it up very cheap). As in the title, it cranks over fine but will just turn the motor, occasionally cough and fart, eventually it will start after a few attempts. Once started tho cars 100% fine. Will be fine if you turn off and jump back in car later on in the day. But next day, same issue. I have tried priming pump a few times before starting, no difference. It may be fuel as it only started occurring with the most recent tank, put 95 in it from reputable brand. Problem is I also barely drive it so very slow going thru tank. Previous owners older couple drove 12,000km in 5 years, still serviced it every bloody year ! Thanks in advance! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the help guys only got around to this today, threw it on the battery booster and started first go, so going to pick up a new battery. Ford battery did alright, a bit over 6 years in this thing

Thank you guys all three of you, that's why I come to this forum first lol. I'll chuck it on the jumpstarter next time I use it, will probably be Wednesday, and get back to you all. You're probably right as the battery hasn't been changed since factory 2012, and cheers Greg for the info on soft start had no idea. Ps Greg corty seems all fixed now, sent you a text it looks like it's the dumbest issue. It seems to be the 9pin to USB cable being plugged in Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not yet mate definitely next on the list, just quickly going to try ground distributor straight to battery cause I have a funny feeling where I'm grounding it may be an issue, but after that going to chuck his dizzy on. Just have to punch my gear on it cause he's one just has the standard strength one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys, been chasing this issue for the last few months now, I'll give you the summary quickly: 250 crossflow, halls effect dizzy, msd Digital 7, HVC 8261 coil After about 15 min or so of driving the motor just cuts out. It then will not start; cranks fine, occasionally farts but does not fire. After a few minutes of waiting it occasionally fires again before getting 5 min of driving in and process repeats. Factory temp gauge says motor is absolutely fine so definitely not a temp issue We made a quick connect from dizzy to msd for 12v ignition and trigger wires, noticed the connector was rubbish so we made another using MSD style connector. Problem came up again. Next time it wouldn't start even after an hour of cooling. Noticed this time tho that tacho wasn't registering cranking rpm, found ground wire from dizzy was faulty. Side of the road fix, fired and got it back home. Remade a real good ground wire. Unfortunately problem persists (tacho registers cranking rpm fine) This has lead to countless side of the road moments and have eventually crawled it back home everytime. Today I've let it idle for a while and waited for the issue to pop up again. When it died and wouldn't start again, quickly had the multimeter and test light with me and went around. The ground connection to dizzy reads fine. The 12v ingnition to dizzy also fine as well. Engine won't fire; so have ruled them out. Waited abit, let it cool down and it fired; so put it back in the garage Any ideas guys?? I pulled plug out when it doesn't fire to make sure it is an electrical issue, and as expected no spark from plug (they are all brand new). Thanks in advance, I enjoy problem solving but this one has left me scratching my head; would much rather it doesn't work at all so we can track down issue, but unfortunately have to have the motor running for a while for the issue to come up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys, long story short borrowed a spare msd digital 7 to swap with mine and test. Problem disappeared so it looked like I had a faulty box. Ended up buying a brand new 6al2 and brand new Blaster SS coil to go with it. Re did effectively all the wiring, loaded up a tune and fired up. Engine now only runs for about 10-15 seconds and then cuts out, no stumble or miss, literally as if you've turned the red on. Some observations: - I have the laptop plugged in with software on. As soon as the engine dies, the laptop loses connection with msd. I.e. It goes from 6530 etc to None in that little box where it tells you what product is connected. The software does not freeze or anything because you just flick the reds on and off then it reconnects. - just as the engine dies, the software leaves you with the final figures before being disconnected. Battery is always above 13V - battery has been checked with 2 testers, also tried running it with my battery jumped onto another running cars battery, no difference. - tried bypassing the ignition wire and running the whole deal off the permanent 12V battery incase of faulty accessory wire, problem persists. - we've wired the setup in a way that a relay is triggered on by the ignition and passes full battery voltage thru the relay into a 1 to 6 distribution blocked with fuses on each output. This block then Powers the msd, triggers on the msd, triggers on 12v to EST distributor, and gives 12v to a little switch panel. All these are on separate outputs - had a second person with a multimeter on the power block to test voltage while the engines running and when it dies. Even when it shuts off, it never reads below 13.9V (obviously drops to 12.5V immediately after engine stops). But voltage never goes below 12v that would trigger off the msd. - I have replaced everything but the distributor itself I'm sort of stumped now cause none of the symptoms seem to be pointing to a common issue and everything is brand new, even to the wires and plugs, except for the dizzy. Could the dizzy be the issue here? Potentially losing ground ? Could the brand new box we stuffed? Any ideas please hit them thru cause I'm scratching my head now. Engine Itself seems fine, there's fuel and all. Just the way it shuts off just sounds very electrical and seems all too similar to the previous problem, except now it only lasts 10-15 seconds Thanks guys Michael Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for that Jack, will give that one a crack then hopefully tonight when I get back. Maybe it is something as simple as that aye! Michael Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers Greg what can you do mate aye spewing. Would've loved if there was an MSD repair center locally One connector will be slightly different by the looks of it so not entirely plug n play. However, considering I need to re install the software, and more than likely going to remake that sheet metal piece on the firewall (will be full of unecessary holes now), it'll probably turn into a bit of a weekend job instead. Let's just hope it all survives this time aye; least it'll have warranty now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep rob msd was getting full voltage at all times Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So some unfortunate news. Went and let the car idle to build up temp, 15 minutes in stalled as it usually does, wouldn't start. So then unplugged my HVC coil and put on mates MSD master blaster that was brand new out of the box, ran for 3 minutes and stalled just like it does with the HVC. So coil wasn't the issue. I have an msd spark tester that goes onto the trigger wire, essentially by passing the distributor. Would spark fine but as soon as I get the motor to the point where it stalls, quickly hook up tester, the test plug would not fire. Wait a few minutes and fires fine. So not a dizzy issue either. Only left the ignition box itself and the main coil lead. Tried another lead and same issue persisted. Unfortunately only left the digital 7. Hooked up anther MSD box and the car idled fine for 25 minutes no issues. So somehow the Digital 7 looks like it's packed it in. Although the box is about 12 yrs old, I'm still sure it should have lasted, but perhaps the last couple years driving in 30+ degree might have gotten to it, not sure to be honest. But will be buying a new 6al2 programmable and new coil to get it back on the road for summer. I've figured this is a more street friendly set up so will be doing this. Thanks for the help everyone, keen to hear if anyone has had similar experiences Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers Greg will give it a go on the weekend. I didn't want it to be the coil but now I'm just hoping it is cause I'm sick of it hahaha, can't wait to see the wagon and the rest of the crew again been a while! Maybe we should buy cars that's work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the explanation Greg on top of it as usual. Delay with mates coil will hopefully have a crack at it this week. Grimy I haven't done the msd check, that is a great idea tho. Correct you just tap the white wire to ground and check be coil lead. I actually have an msd spark tester somewhere here as well. In fact, I'll give that one a go next time the thing fails so that'll be two things to test in one go Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks jack, I've lent the coil with the male post to a mate, but just remembered I have another mate with a spare HVC style coil so hopefully test that one out first since it's the same type of coil. Could it possible be anything else guys while we're here? Does anyone happen to kno what is it in a coil like that that would prevent it from working only when it builds up heat? Just so bizarre that it works 100% then nothing at all before repeating the process over again until you leave it overnight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahhh cheers for the replies, spewing boys really was hoping it wouldn't be a coil as it's a good one! The coil was in use in 2006 for a couple of years in a drag car, then in probably 2015ish I brought it back and threw it on corty. So it's not exactly new but was hoping being a top of line MSD it would be fine. I do have a couple of standard coils, each with different style posts, however I'm not sure whether they also work straight off the MSD box just as an MSD coil would? Anyone know of a way to test those HVC coils in any way? Going to have a quick search online as well Thanks again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for reply jack, I don't run a module on the dizzy, I eliminated it and made spade terminals straight onto dizzy. Msd module I'll have to take a look then I guess cheers Msd digital 7 has pretty much all the features EDIT: while I'm here I should confirm that the MsD still has the red led flashing even when the motor won't fire. The tach also reads cranking rpm when not firing either; since this is picked up from the box, the box should be recognizing the fact that the motor is turning Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys, I’m currently assembling a list of parts to put together my own fuel system for the corty. Aim is to just buy all these bits once and not worry about it after it’s all done as the motor will be staying N/A Carburettor. Currently the 250 is making around 220hp crank. Obviously wanting to future proof this system for when the motor comes out again later on. This is what I’m thinking so far, and also a couple of questions at the end as well: Holley Blue pump Holley billet adjustable regulator with return line on AED billet regulator bracket Billet pre and post pump filters (I have these already just need to find out what threads they are to get the fittings) 3/8” aluminium hardline replacing factory line 3/8” braided line replacing factory hose Holley electric fuel pressure gauge – old school look mounted in car. Will be on 3/8” barb fuel pressure gauge fitting with 1/8” NPT port 3/8” return line back to tank (will be mimicking the tank fittings from the Stealth EFI Holley Master Kit for the return line into tank – buying those parts individually) All fittings will be NPT to 3/8” barb (or AN to barb for the filters once I go check them out). Lines clamped down on fittings, and also lines clamped down on flared hardlines Aussiespeed fuel pump block off plate Now a couple of qtns: The sender unit would have the factory 5/16” tube, should I get one of those 5/16” to 3/8” reducers straight after the outlet? Or is the only option to get it cut off and 3/8” welded in place? For the return line set up, drill into tank or sender unit? The car runs hardline across the car to passenger side before going rubber all along the straight edge down the length of the car. Any reason I should replace this section with hard line as well when I re do it? Think theres more but well start off with this. This is the first time im having a go designing this so If theres something ive overlooked or a better way to go about something let us know Cheers boys Michael Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies boys, always good to get a few more opinions. I'm still pretty set on getting a good system, hopefully just set and forget so whatever I throw at it later on it's not going to let go, plus having a heap of headroom is going to be a bonus. I guess the main point of this thread was to see if I'm on the right track and if there's something I've overlooked or got wrong, but from what I can see I seem to have it alright, only exception being there's a couple more options for pumps so I guess I'll just wait and see what proflow pump ando runs on his and make a decision then. Pretty much got all the part numbers I need, I'll price compare a lot of the stuff with some of the local guys here, and see how it compares to getting it from USA and go from there. It's looking like I may end up with something similar to ando's set up with the exception I'll probably be regulating at the carb just have to fork out for a longer return system While we're here , any opinions on drilling thru the sender unit to put in fittings for return line? And will it be a big deal if I run a 5/16" to 3/8" barb adaptor straight after pick up on sender unit before dropping into the pump ? In other words will the 5/16" section make a big difference to the supply to the pump during that initial gravity drop ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info Q I was pretty much ready to do that set up at the start but pretty tempted to do this big set up and just have it done, still confused as to why the Holley tech went against the solid state pump. I get from a numbers point of view that this facet pump will supply the enough fuel even at 7psi, just trying to work out there must be a reason why they don't recommend it, for modified engines maybe... not sure Rob what's the fuel system you're running ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the replies guys appreciate it Aye Greg long time mate we gotta get something happening again with the nsw guys. Thanks for the tips, first up I was actually going to go for the solid state setup initially, to be exact I was going to use Holley Mighty Mite 32GPH that topped out at 7psi and still used 5/16" lines no return line. It was actually a Holley tech that I messaged that ended up putting me off it, I did make sure to tell him to assume some future head room like 350hp just incase, so maybe that's why. Then again he recommended one of those new $500 gerator pumps instead lol so idk if I trust his word completely. I was going to ask if that gerotor pump aerated fuel like a vane/rotary pump when not running a return line. Anyway, the way I see it it's definitely going to cost me more going down this route but I'm hoping this system will be able to cope with whatever N/A crossflow it ends up becoming in the future haha just will need a bit of mucking around to set it up this first time. I like the idea of parallel solid state pumps, I just assumed you only ran one but something to think about. Ando thanks for the reply mate, funnily enough I was going to ask about proflow! Was thinking Holley cause I don't mind spending for the brand, but proflow is very well known and when I saw it (at less than half the price as well...) I wanted to eventually get some opinions. Which proflow do you recommend ? Cause they have the Red style 97gph or the Black style 140gph? If I'm going to run the return line and reg should I just go for the big one ? Don't think they have a Blue equivalent... I'll have a look at wagoons check valve set up, do you run it just after the pump or something to save fuel line ? Worst case don't mind running the adjustable Holley one at the carb would be nice to have some control over pressure but looking at all options for now Thanks guys Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk