Clevo120Y

Yeah she starts at 70psi cold and drops to 45psi at full noise for the last couple of laps, back in the pits after a race she is 25psi hot idle, the water temp recovers quite quickly once at idle, a bigger radiator is going to be installed but I personally think we need to slow the water pump down with a bigger pulley for full noise racing, give the coolant more time to do it's job and stop any cavitation at constant high rpm.

We'll we had a mixed night last night, on my side it was all great news, the engine performed strong all night and no leaks fuel mixtures are spot on now and oil pressure is good, still a little warm at 215f but not too bad.

First heat was good, started in last position out of about 12 cars and powered through to finish 4th and right up the front runners arses. Second heat some big ruts in the track caught wombat by surprise and spat him towards the wall a couple of times and finished 6th. Heat 3 and the final were both average, wombat himself admits that he didn't drive we'll at all plus in the final rear tyre pressure was way too high so wheel spin was terrible, the car was noticeably slower because of this and was well off the pace.

So average night but you have meets like that, barker street stock feature in a fortnight so see how we go, the engine tune is now pretty spot on so now just car setup.

Lol thanks mate!! Don't know if I have got to a stage that Australia listens to me yet hahaha but cheers anyway

Lol thanks mate!! Don't know if I have got to a stage that Australia listens to me yet hahaha but cheers anyway

Had the first surgery last week and I'm back up and about already so happy with that haha.

Anyway back to speedway, race again this weekend so see how we go. Everyone look up "wombat speedway" on Facebook for me and start getting him to post up some shit, not much activity on the page but if people seem keen to see what's going on he will start posting regularly. Cheers guys

When I flow tested the aussiespeed manifolds I found an 8% flow difference over the cylinders, it only takes a bit of work and I got it down to 4%. The aussiespeed manifold is a great bit of gear but like all mass produced items a little work makes them better.

Well after a great result on the weekend everything has turned to shit, discovered that the rear main had shit itself leading to low oil level which lead to low oil pressure spikes, this scored the big end bearings. Pulled motor yesterday and got everything ready to reassemble today, under pressure to be finished and going today as I have surgery tomorrow morning, then a piston and rod jumped off the bench and put a crack in it.... FUCK!!!! So now I have to wait for a new piston and hopefully I will be up to it next week to finish it. Also massive thanks to Ando for his help again with the oiling system and general advice, your a champ cheers.

I don't think it is 4v size but I may be wrong. Will have to look into it.

Scott Cook has an ally stock replica manifold that has been redesigned and recast and outperforms most aftermarket manifolds on the market.

The Wombat raced again at mt barker yesterday and had a great run, finish 2nd in all 3 heats to qualify outside pole for the final, then goes and WINS the final, yeah boi pretty pumped about that

Hahaha cheers guys, my bench next to my bed hmmmm now that's an idea lol.

Yeah it's close mate I can smell it LOL, the car has the potential and once Wombat gets his groove on we will be a real contender at any track, the state and national titles are here in WA this year 1 week apart from each other and we aim to compete in both so getting the car sorted now is important, we went and tried the 3.08 diff to get these results but a change to a 2.92 is needed as we all discussed earlier, I just wanted to take small steps, it payed off as the car is on par with the fastest guys so hopefully the 2.92 will give us more SPEED. here is a short vid of the weekend, heat 3 from the last yellow to the finish, we ran too high a tire pressure in this heat as we weren't paying attention and the track was just watered and shit before Wombat went out, so wheel spin was a big issue in this race but she still got up and going, ignore the oil pressure light as it is dicky and the pressure is solid as can be seen by the guage. cheers

you won't get a streetable cam to bleed that much off, like Ando said find an untouched unmarked head and go from there.

Thanks mate, yeah I can put more timing in it still and the AFR's are in the high 11's so I can still take fuel out for more power later, hoping to get her on a dyno soon to get it Mickey Mouse.

I'm looking forward to surgery to get started, I have at least 3 to get through but as soon as I'm recovered I will be full steam ahead with "stumpers heads n manifolds" engine developments

In my opinion none of those parts marry up well, 84da with unmarked head will still be too high in comp, the 1st cam may bleed off some comp with it's overlap but touch and go for a street engine. You would be crazy not to use the 84da balanced assembly, with the unmarked head maybe the crow master grind 730 on a 110 lsa would get the dynamic comp close for 98 fuel, she will be rather grumpy.

well I've been flat out so here is a quick update from the weekend at Albany speedway, Wombat went really well, wee had a average start with a dnf in the first heat due to a broken upper ball joint, the second heat was OK but I was still chasing some spark scatter at the topend of the rev range, once I changed the coil over to the hec electronic job the timing became rock solid, so set at a nice safe 28 degrees the car flew in the 3rd heat and was on pace with the front runners and finished 4th. The final we started out of 10th because of the average first 2 heats. Wombat was running 3rd when he hit a rutt and headed for the wall but managed to get it straight again but lost 2 spots. here is a timing sheet that shows that the car is now as fast as any other car in the region and I'm pumped with hows it's running. Wombat is car number 45 Brad Pierce.

I'm leaving the car in a safe tune for now as I have surgery next week and will be out of action for a while but Wombat will keep me posted on how he is going and I will let you lot know. Cheers

All of the advice is spot on, the only thing I will add is that the engine must fire straight away when new to run a cam in. I prime the oil pump first to check pressure and prime untill I see oil coming out of all the pushrods, fill the fuel bowl with fuel then connect the fuel line. I run just the outer springs as well and hold the revs at 2000 for 20mins. Leave the dizzy bolt slightly loose so you can adjust timing to a safe level as soon as it fires. The race engine got this process on the front lawn and then raced at full revs once the dampers were put in, the cam came out recently and was perfect and is back in again for this season. I also use joe Gibbs lube.

Good luck to all your crew for this weekend mate.

Yeah I'm happy so far, the springs are good and have 80 thou to coil bind so no worries there, that lip on the retainer sits snug inside the damper. Lighter valve train and reseated valves will make it nice to rev. I adjusted the oil pressure and now sits solid at 58psi and the sump seems to work as oil pressure didn't move.

Well got some hot laps in and then rain so no racing, she sounded on song during the hot laps and one of the fastest guys in the region couldn't get past the Wombat and he said it feels faster and more snappy, Albany speedway in 2 weeks so hopefully get to stretch her legs.

Also cheers again to Tony for the advice with this, I didn't get to do the strip bit in the sump but I will have a go next time, that's how close a dead line I've been on lately, spent twice as long on everything than I should of, doing extra things like the retainers because they wouldn't get done in time, the joys of race cars. Also I heard today that bad weather is coming and racing might be cancelled Saturday LOL

Thanks guys, haven't been on as I have been flat out, this motor got sealed last night and picked up today, it has to go in the car tonight so I can go round tomorrow night to prime the oil, put the intake setup on and fire it up to get a basic tune in it, race it the next morning LOL hope it all goes to plan.

Anyway couldn't get some parts in time so machined up some retainers to suit the isky springs and 3 groove valves, so I spent a few hours on the lathe doing that, then setup the seat pressures and so on.

put the rest together and she all went well, run out of time to to paint everything but she looks a bit better than before.

Kicking back after I finished, one unassuming crossflow ready to eat some injected cars hahaha

Another engine was at the mechanical shop that I was doing the retainers at, a SRE built ecotech of probably the fastest guy in our region, he has had nothing but trouble with this engine, it's been built twice and fucked twice. poor bastard is a great guy and is just handing money over like it was sand.

Them good results fellas, I need to find the secret seat profile LOL

OK so I had another go at this sump, much happier with the end result now. Used ally plate this time and fixed it all together with rivets so it can be pulled apart.

checking the fit of the top widage tray.

All the pieces made up.

pieces put together and locating tabs welded to the sump

finished and looks good I rekon, very sturdy and confident it will work quite well.

So what do you lot think? better than my first attempt LOL

Play with it, Hahaha I had to fight it mate with a stick