Clevo120Y

You leave the engine in to prime like sly has suggested, pull the engine out to replace the oil pump itself.

Yes the est dizzy is a hall effect, rumor is that because of the position of the pickup in the est dizzy that they don't work well with the MSD, I have always used the tfi dizzy from injected xf's with the msd so I can't confirm if the est dizzy is a problem or not.

I don't think it's overkill to use the MSD on you combo, better and multiple spark is always better no matter the combo.

It may be easier to tow it lol

Sorry Wookie I should of asked the year of the XF and I could of told you the flywheel bolts were the same as E series.

The dizzy should fit, put them next to each other and have a look, maybe use the oil pump drive shaft from the XC as well.

For ease of getting it runnIng to move I would use the XC fuel pump, dizzy and water pump with fan. Then it's just bolt in.

 

... Sounds serious!

Try the plugs for sure, go for a run then shut if off straight away and have a look at the plugs that are in there now to determine if some are too hot and running lean, if idling for a while improves it then that tells me that the idle fuel is enough to start cooling down the chamber, I think you are running lean at part and wot, if you have a laser thermometer go for a spin then pop the bonnet and measure the header pipes, you will probably find that 1 and 6 are much hotter which indicates that those 2 pots are running lean, you may have to up the main jets by a couple or use smaller hsab's if you carb is setup for that. Xflows are a bugger that without a modified and flow tested intake manifold pots 3 and 4 will have to run a little rich to keep 1 and 6 from being lean.

Hope you get it sorted

I agree with Greg, what head have you got on it? The C2 if the quench wings tip isn't layed back and smoothed can be a hot spot.

Replace your head with a C1 or C1A that will get you there, plus the valves are bigger standard than the unmarked heads from memory.

Tunnel Ram hahaha you know you want to.

Stroker kits are great value these days.

The difference between the compressions is dynamic compression, which is the comp when the engine is running and what's left after cam overlap, overlap bleeds off comp, bigger cams have more duration and overlap, so if you start putting a big cam in a lower comp motor it becomes sluggish and dosen't perform in the bottom end, it will allow the engine to rev harder but won't be any good to drive. If you start with a higher comp you can use the advantages of a bigger cam without going too low in dynamic comp. hope that makes sense

I agree with the fellas above, the only thing I would go with is the single groove valves for security, using your closed chamber heads and a 51 bottom you can afford to go a bit bigger with the cam also which will be bring a bigger smile to your face.

In my opinion you need to decide a compression ratio first which determines open or closed chamber heads, low to mid 9's with open and low to mid10's with closed, low comp means you will need a cam with less duration, higher comp can have more.

Then modify heads and get flow figures, this determines the lift of the cam, there is no point having 600+ tho of lift if the heads don't flow past 500tho lift. So you match the cam lift to the heads.

So really you decide comp first, then modify heads then decide the cam.

This is just a basic basic approach, as the rest of the combo has to be well put together and tuned properly.

Yeah my creative writing didn't go down to well did it, kind of like that snagga. Shame really I have a few more to share lol

XE is a fuel only injection setup so runs the solid state dizzy the same as the carby models so tfi module is out, have you got an immobiliser? Do you have to redo it to start again? Could be faulty. Faulty earth is possible also or maybe a fuel pump relay, when it stalls next time try and listen to see if the pump is still running. Otherwise problems like these are a bastard to chase.

Lol so far so good, I was just going to say I wasn't xrglen and leave it at that hahahaha.

Dave might change his opinion in his last post now

I'm with you Chris hahaha

Clevo120y aka Stumper

Hahahaha I don't know if that's a good idea at the moment, previous bosses aren't my biggest fans lol

I personally think it comes down to header design rather than the exhaust size, no restriction in the exhaust is always going to be better it just comes down to noise with a larger system. The header and it's ability to scavenge properly makes the power and torque, the idea of needing back pressure is wrong in my opinion, having the greatest exhaust velocity without restriction in the header is what you want.

Cheers

Using your head rebuild the bottom end with the 8cc pistons, nothing special needed for the rotating assembly just a decent balancer, I would have the intake ports just cleaned up with some blending in the bowls, use a 4 barrel manifold either the aussiespeed or a redline cleaned up because there casting is pretty average, 465 vac sec Holley, pacemaker headers, Cleveland scorpion roller rockers (you will have some spare) they are fine and cheaper then the YT set. Cam tech ct142 528 camshaft and there recommended valve springs, regraph the XE dizzy or better still go for the TFI dizzy and MSD 6al-2 programmable ignition.

Your diff gears will be fine and a 2200/2500 stall would be good.

That should reliably get you over 250hp.

Others may tweak this combo, hope that helps.

Cheers

Dave may disagree but I don't think that combination will get you there, great bottom end performer and a really good budget build and will still eat dunnydores light to light.

The first thing I would change on your list is to run the 4 barrel manifold and carb, you will be running the limits of the stock rockers with that cam and I personally would use rollers for added insurance and less head wear. 8cc pistons and a C1 head would get you in the ball park cr wise. You will need some work on the ports to chase 300hp in my opinion.