Clevo120Y

Cut it out will ya!! We have to race tomorrow night

Also on what wagoon said, the stock rotating assembly is good, the street stock engine has stock crank and rods with arp rod bolts with no balancing, stock harmonic balancer and stock rockers. It gets spun to 6000 lap after lap without a failure, if it's put together nicely and tuned well they last fine.

I'm using the isky 235d springs now, recommended by Ando and I will test them at the end of the season, to use the isky with 3 groove valves you have to machine your retainers to suit the inside and outside diameter, also use the locators specific for the isky springs as well.

Crow 7738-12 ?? Off the top of my head, single spring with damper 110lbs seat pressure.

Don't use crow springs, half a season of racing and the crows went soft, set at 110lbs they were 85lbs when I tested them again, crap crap crap don't use them.

Thanks mate glad you enjoyed the thread, the old girl goes hard and is proving to be very reliable, some of these guys up the front have hurt engines really bad a number of times during a season and ours just flies race after race. Cheers

At the moment the workshop is getting a makeover for the relaunch of "Stumpers Heads & Manifolds" early next year. Something had to go to make room so the XD wagon got the chop for now, it's out at Wombats property, new shelving going up, some new tools on the way and some mould making gear to make carby tops that will be dyno tested and developed for sale later, hopefully a big year coming up. Also the production XF that I did the head, manifold and carb for last year will have it's first run this weekend so I'm excited to see how that goes as well, this XF has been a back of the field car for years so let's see if we can get it up near the front.

What did the porting cost if you don't mind sharing

Hope I didn't offend Ryan, wasn't my intention just wanted to point out to others the extras on top of what you paid for that can be charged if extra work was required, your base engine was in reasonable condition to start with by the sounds of it. Cheers

Yeah mate I'm good thanks, pulled up from the first surgery sweet and can't wait for the next one. should be good by early next year. Ando he probably stuffed the corner hahahaha, nah it does need to be softer I think, it doesn't squat like the other cars on the track. Wombat had a terrible weekend in Barker, put it into the wall in heat 2 so a DNF there and had to replace the lower control arm, heat 3 was going good in 3rd then the diff caught fire because the backing plate had broken and all the oil had drained out and the diff shit itself so another DNF and onto the trailer for the rest of the day. So a 2.92 is being built this week and a change to the bigger water pump pulley and race again this weekend in Albany.

Yeah they are all fair prices there, the balance is a great price. extras that normally people have to pay that add up that you haven't had done is : valve guide replacement, cylinder head facing on 3sides, seat inserts replaced and seats cut, refacing valves and backcut. Your block didn't get any machining except a hone in the bores so other costs are normally at least a deck face then line honing of the crank and cam tunnel, your crank only had the big ends done but not the mains, you didn't get new rod bolts done either, no head bolts there or oil pump etc etc. All these things add up and more so if you have to have the head repaired like welding in the water galleries then refaced, have the chambers cc'd for even compression. Don't be shocked if you have to spend $5000 on parts and machining then around $1000 for someone to PROPERLY assemble it so it lasts and can handle a flogging. It's funny because when I port a head I charge about $600 to disassemble and inspect a head, work out the port sizes for the combination and grind the ports, before and after flow testing and then reassemble the head, this takes me at least 4 days. then the machinist charges $1000/$1500 to do the rest of the work which takes half a day, new inserts, seat cuts, facing, guides and valve grinds. LOL people think I'm making heaps out of it but I make less than a normal wage but I do it for the love and to see people go faster!!!

I need a machinist like yours mate hahaha, no way I could get all that machining let alone balancing done for that money.

If you put a diffuser plate in the plenum you can distribute the flow more evenly, I'm working on this problem with the ecotech manifold.

Agree with Stumps, I looked at the wrong cam. I was looking at the 3rd cam on that list as the one I would use. The crow suggested above I like the extra exhaust duration because of what I mentioned earlier, I don't like the 112 lsa tho. I would be grinding that on a 109/110 lsa

You can go high 10's on comp with straight gas, I would use the C2 head as gas likes lots of chamber swirl to produce torque, if your going to use the EFI manifold then weld up the injector bosses so you can grind out that section to match the head, that section of manifold has a small cross sectional area so it needs to be opened right up and then matched to the runner tubes as well. The 86 block has a 1 piece rear main the same as e series blocks, the 84 also has a 1 piece but it is a different size, I always like to run an EF crank in a 86 block as like Tony said I find them smoother. Head work, well I'm always going to recommend some porting hahaha but with gas I would run a bigger exhaust valve, gas likes more exhaust flow. Intake if the budget allows to run a 1.84 valve then do it, a nice 3 angle seat and a backcut on the valve and your golden. That cam will suit what your after in my opinion. PS you don't get a block balanced you can get the rotating assembly balanced but in this application I wouldn't really worry about it.

A small update, the 302 went 11.4 down the quarter and is now having the exhaust valves changed to a different shape, also the 750 carb is being replaced with an 850 unit. I am hoping this old girl gets to bottom 11's, he hasn't run it up to full revs yet so here's hoping she gets quicker.

Some Trickflow 170 heads got delivered today for me to port for Wayne (Performance Carb Tune Perth) to run on a new 302w. Here are the specs of the engine that he sent me today. This is the list of bits STD 302w block 4.030" bore 0 deck height Head Gasket will be either .030 or .040 depending on final comp Eagle neutral balance Crank Eagle I beam rods Probe +8cc Dome top pistons Lunati solid roller Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 273/279 Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/249 Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .616/.624 ( but using 1.7 rockers so its 654/663) LSA/ICL: 110/106 Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .016/.016 RPM Range: 2500-7000 Victor jnr intake Will be all motor no NOS or anything else and will be on E85 Want about 13.5:1 comp And will be in my XL falcon with 4200rpm stall and 4.11s Use will be street/strip So I put the head on the bench today to give me a base line to work with, I have to say the flow figures are a fair way from the advertised figures given by the manufacturer, I do have to take into account a bit of carbon buildup but not much, also I calibrate my bench to read a little low as to not give bullshit flow figures, I rather my bench read low than promise something that isn't there. intake exhaust 50 30.32 18.62 100 61.09 46.54 150 93.39 66 200 122.5 83.3 250 147.15 100.8 300 179.26 118.64 350 201.5 133 400 216.08 145.43 450 232.17 154.26 500 242.15 159.56 550 243.11 165.04 600 233.27 169.88 650 236.19 173.53 700 233.34 177.9 So my main aim is make the ports stable all the way to max lift and obviously gain some flow as well. I will be starting these heads mid next week as I'm just doing a set of L67 heads and manifold for a supercharged V6 engine at the moment then straight into these. I will keep you lot updated as I go

A physical stopper is the best way, a hollowed out spark plug with a bolt through the centre will work, I remove the rockers so valves don't touch the stopper, turn the motor over until it stops (by hand) and mark the balancer in line with the tdc mark on the timing cover, turn the motor until it stops in the other direction and mark the balancer again, measure between these 2 marks is true tdc and hopefully that will be marked on the balancer already if it hasn't moved.

Does the ZL have the ignition controlled by the ecu or is it still the XE style electronic ignition?

163 at the rears Dave? That would be close to the 200 fly then.

Yeah I'm just a backyarder, I use a cold chisel and large hammer for all my mods hahaha

Is your fuel pump connected through the oil pressure circuit for rollover cutoff? Just worked out this on an injected street stock that the oil pressure was dipping and cutting off the fuel pump causing leanouts, his pressure gauge was up and down and is now solid.

180/200 fwhp in my opinion, pretty good carb with some mods.

Also I use the centreline install of cams as well. The last one I did the crank gear was installed on +6 when the cam was only installed +2

That's cool, what class of racing is that? I have never seen sedans with sprint car wings on them racing down here.