Clevo120Y

With some beehive springs with smaller retainers and your ahead some more

Will do mate, I will go on Monday and let you know.

Too short unless you have had the head and block decked and run adjustable roller rockers to set it up.

Your carb is done Squid man. cleaned up and kitted, basic setup so should start up straight away once the fuel bowl has some fuel in it. She has 61 jets in it, the mixture is set to standard and the accel pump is setup properly so should just be fine tune from there. You will have to get a fitting for the fuel line in the part I'm pointing to in the pic as I don't have any sorry, I will send the base gasket and aircleaner gasket with it. Any problems just drop me a message mate but all should be good.

I agree with Revhead, the AU 4litre is about as bulletproof as you can get in my opinion.

If I can get access to all the different heads I will flow test them all in standard form so we can put together the best stock parts engine, I can test the manifolds as well so we can compare apples with apples.

Any reason you don't want to stick with the Original 4l manifold? Apart from that it should be pretty simple to run straight gas, just use a stand alone ignition system like the MSD 6al-2 programmable and the minimum wiring for starter and alt and your pretty much going, others will share the little details of a conversion like this as I haven't done it personally.

Hey Sly I read that article also, I think the answer would be confirmed on a wet bench to see how fuel shear at the valve goes, it may be a case of too much flow or slower velocity past the valve or the larger port volume from the different shaped valve didn't match the combination, very interesting I find and your right sometimes a combination is so wrong it's right lol

Mcfly I will be doing exactly that in a couple of weeks when my flow bench is completed, also I will test and document every crossflow head in standard form giving valve sizes, chamber sizes and flow figures, the port castings are slightly different in the different heads so I'm interested which ones perform the best then I can get into mods I do and show the gains.

General port work like mentioned above can make good gains, BUT if you bolt a stock intake and exhaust manifold to it you will not see the full gains. Port wall texture helps atomization, valve seat form is the biggest influence on low lift performance, you can only increase port velocity by decreasing the size of the port, to make a port work at it's best the minimum cross sectional area of the port has to match the cam and intended rpm range, the mcsa has to be far enough away from the short turn to allow sufficient time to slow the airspeed down at the short turn to allow it to turn the corner and not just tumble off the edge and crash into the opposite port wall, nearly every port has high and low airspeed sections, you want to fill in areas of low speed and remove material in high speeds, this is just a generalization as it is more technical than that, you have to work with we're the air naturally wants to flow in a port, to increase swirl normally means biassing a port to one side and create what is like a drain plug effect around the valve, after all this the most important thing is to match the cam to the flow figures of the head, there is no point in having 600 thou of lift if the port chokes at 500thou, there is no point in having a head that outflows the intake manifold also, so all these things need to be matched to get the most effective and efficient combination.

^^^thats not laziness Ando, that's experience, I also just pull the plug but for someone that is just getting to know how an engine works I personally think a visual reference is better

Purely suggested it to give a visual guide to work with, no mistake can be made if you can see the valve positions.

Is the cam a solid or hydraulic? If either aren't set up properly it could be holding valves open, could be lots of things unfortuanetly, you just have to eliminate one thing at a time.

The valves will be closed well before you get to TDC on the compression stroke, this is normal and correct. Get the balancer to TDC and put the dizzy in with the rotor pointing to number 1, leave the dizzy retaining bolt loose, start it and adjust the timing.

Yeah but you need to make sure the balancer is on TDC on the comp stroke, an engine passes TDC twice on a complete cycle, pop the rocker cover off and make sure that both valves are closed when you get to TDC. If you have set the dizzy 180degrees out you will notice that the rotor button will be pointing to number 1 cylinder while the exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve stating to open, this is wrong. You need to set the dizzy when both valves are closed at TDC.

TDC on the compression stroke?

Did you get my text yesterday Chris or do you have a new number?

The EF chopper wheel has been attempted before, stretching my memory but I believe it fouls on the crossy timing cover.

Yeah same number mate. Watching a movie so will get back to you tommoz. Cheers

Next in line for some info if Winton passes. What size and how much?

Valves out of a C1A head In 1.798in head diameter, 5.288in total length from valve face to tip, 0.340in stem diameter Ex 1.505in head diameter, 4.950in total length from valve face to tip, 0.340in stem diameter

If I get a chance today I will pop a couple out, any particular head, I have an E1 and C1 sitting on the shelf.

No worries, I will get more cash in the post for you tommoz mate. Thanks for posting it.

Fuck me!!!! I will get another money order on the way for you Rev.

You just have to wait a few weeks Squid and you will be laughing, I've sent a money order to Rev as our banks wouldn't allow a transfer between them, so once he gets it the parts will be on there way and I can build a carb for you. It is frustrating having a problematic car isn't it.