Clevo120Y

At least we said the same thing, that would have been awkward hahahaha

Typing at the same time LOL Your explination is better than mine

Hyd is less maintenance, pretty much a set and forget. Solid requires regular lash setting checks, they perform better, allow a more aggressive cam profile to be used and in turn allow an engine to hit higher rpm. You can't be lazy with a solid if you want the engine to last. Hyd is more forgiving, as long as you have some preload on the lifter it will be fine, a hyd lifter runs on a pocket of oil in the lifter which absorbs the shock somewhat between the cam and the valve spring, that is why you don't have a lash setting, the rocker arm is always in contact with the valve, this makes them run quiet, a solid makes noise as there is a gap "lash" between the rocker arm and valve so it "taps" the valve every time it is opening making the "ticking" sound you hear with a solid cam. You can still get great performance from a hyd cammed crossy and not have to worry about it.

Grouting is like a concrete that you pour into the water galleries from the deck face and settle it into the bottom of the block, when it hardens it supports the bottom of the bores to reduce flex and limit the chance of a bore splitting. you need to go through a process to get it right, you do one deck at a time, the block deck needs to be level and after pouring you need to settle the mix and get the air out, I personally use an orbital sander without the sanding pad and put it on the outside of the block and vibrate it to settle the mix, others just tap the block with a mallet, it takes about a week for it to dry and then you can do the other side, a half fill is to the bottom of the welsh plugs, a full fill is to the bottom of the water pump holes. you need a good cooling system for a grouted block as your replacing some of the water capacity with concrete, an oil cooler is also a good idea in my opinion.

^^^is that done to limit the amount of oil it can pump but maintain the desired pressure?

9.5 would be my safe opinion

It all depends on the chambers themselves and the material used, a more modern fast burn chamber will tolerate more comp on less octane and require less timing also, alloy heads can also tolerate generally more comp on less octane. As mentioned it is all about the entire combo, things like cam, intake and exhaust design and dynamic compression all play an important part.

Thanks mate, I will source one of those.

Well the mount improved the vibration but it's not gone, are all 5ltr harmonic balancers interchangeable or do I need an AU2 specific balancer?

After I put this mount in and see if it goes away I think I will replace the balancer as that was my next thought, thanks mate.

So I finally got around to looking at this today, engine mount bolts are all good, checked the torque converter bolts all good, the gearbox mount looks OK but with minimal effort I can lift the rear extesion housing and bounce it up and down a good 5mm at least so I think I will replace that and see how we go.

Will do, thanks Thom

Thanks Pete, do I have to pull the headers to get at it? plus I only TIG weld mate so don't have a MIG which might makes things a bit more difficult, I'm hoping it's just a rear mount then. I've never owned a Windsor before, pretty gutless in stock form in my opinion, should be a good family cruiser when I finish fixing her up, I mainly bought it for the 3rd row seat as I have 4 kids and a good excuse to have a V8 family truckster lol

Not missing as far as I can tell, revs clean and crisp from idle in neutral, pulls fine when driving but hard to tell if there is a miss at light throttle because of the shudder/vibration at light acceleration but she doesn't bog down and seems to accelerate at a consistent rate.

^^^You again lol

Yeah mate, gives you some room to put a cam in plus it has vac sec's so you can putt around on the primaries, the secondaries won't open if they are not required.

If you can run an aftermarket manifold a 465 everyday of the week for me.

Valve toss I believe they call that Sly

What was the initial pressure when cold?

My comment was to Mcfly Chris. I wouldn't be happy with that personally Chris, did you check the oil pump clearances?

You probably pick up a bit of pressure going the thicker oil mate but if your engine is happy and consistent then stick with it, I find the penrite more stable than any other oil so good choice.

I use penrite oils mate, 10/40 I generally use for new engines that have had there tolerances checked and more performance orientated, 20/50 for general use and older engines. Others may disagree with me and the debate on oils will rage forever

800rpm, this is with a reasonably fresh engine, 20/50 oil

Is that so, I never took notice to be truthful. Scratch my last post hahahaha

I like to see 25 to 30. They can live with 10 but your running a fine line.