Clevo120Y

If the top works well I might look into doing one for a holley and see if there are gains in flow and gains in the real world, then I might get some cast. Tony that would be great if I can get those sheets off you mate, again cheers for your help and I'm sure we will be faster with your input. I'll send you a PM.

Also for best WOT power the fuel ratio should be between 12.7 and 13 for unleaded fuel.

The first thing I do when tuning an engine for the first time is check that the balancer TDC mark is accurate, I do this by using a physical stop on the piston with a stopper in the sparkplug hole in number 1. rotate the engine till it stops and mark the balancer in line with TDC mark on the timing cover, rotate the engine the other way until it stops and mark the balancer again, the timing notch on the balancer should be exactly in between these 2 marks. Then when this is confirmed correct I move the balancer till the notch points to the 10 degree mark on the timing pointer, using liquid paper mark the balancer in line with TDC mark on the pointer, move the balance again until that new mark points to the 10 degree pointer and make another mark on the balancer at the TDC pointer again. What this has done is given you timing marks not just at TDC but at 10 and 20 degrees also, this makes setting and reading the "all in" timing easy. When the second mark is flashing at the TDC mark using the timing light the ignition is 20 degrees advanced, then it is just a case of advancing the dizzy along the scale on the timing cover to get your total timing at all in revs which would be as an example on the 10 degree pointer plus the 20 on the balancer gives you a total of 30 degrees advanced. The XE dizzy has a problem with snapping the cast pin that holds the centre bit with the triangle pointers on it to the centre shaft, when this breaks the centre bit moves and the timing all goes to shit, to avoid this from happening I pull that centre out and file that locating pin off and replace it with a steel pin and it will never break, I will do a thread on how I do it at a later date with pics. That is all from me for now I will add some more when I get more time

Wayne is a good bloke, I would suggest going to him as well. I'm about to do some trickflow heads and manifold for his Windsor, will be an animal with 14 to 1 comp e85 600 thou lift screamer.

^^^ HAHAHA that is spot on, I'm just happy that I'm getting paid some cash to play at the moment. The top worked out well and I'm keen to see how dramatic the improvements will be, Thanks to Tony who has been giving me an education on car setup which I will be putting to good use this weekend. I have found a guy who will scale the car for a carton of piss so I can get some starting specs for setup with this car.

Go get yourself an air/fuel ratio meter mate, I wouldn't tune without one anymore. Mark your balancer every 10 degrees if your still running the stock one so you can see the total timing and when it all comes in etc etc. Start conservative and creep up on it slowly. What ignition system are you running and also what gear are you using eg manifold, exhaust, cam specs, compression etc etc.

Well it works mint, pulls 280+cfm. a nice tight fit and all I have to do is push it on right before I close the lid of the aircleaner. Will have to seal it with something but I will just try it out this round.

Thanks Tony and NZXD. I'm starting to get my head around the speedway thing, the sport must send people broke, the amount of carnage every round and they have to fix it all hahahaha. We will see what gains in power these changes will make this weekend, I'm off to see if I can do a simple way of putting a radius on the carb top, will let you know how I go.

I am also a big fan of the MSD programmable setup, The locked dizzy setup like Sly suggests does work but for a few hundred more you can get the whole deal and some, it will future proof your combination and be the best money you will ever spend.

Well I got started on the webber carb today, full rebuild and some work in the venturi's and stuff to get it flowing better. I take the end of the screws off that protrude on the other side of the throttle plates. Then I clean up the overhang that is in the small part of the venturi and clean up the throats, blend all the sections together and open up the gaskets a tiny bit so there is no gasket overhanging in the throats. I also sand the boosters a little and polish them up as well as the venturi's. Then put the carb together, The carb flow tested at 274cfm, a 13cfm gain. Dosen't sound like much but it is around 5% which is quite good for not changing the dimensions of the carb. Then I started testing with the aircleaner assembly. modified housing with aircleaner inside went up to 260cfm. then I thought about raising the housing with a spacer to gain some space above the carb, this got flow up to 263cfm. Then I started to think about how the air was entering the carb, one thing that I have learnt with flow testing is that air doesn't like to enter something with a sharp edge, that's why you put playdo at the entry to make a radius entry, so why not see if the same would work for the top of a carb??? well it does make a difference. I tested the carb first by itself and with a radiused top flow went from 274cfm to 285cfm!!! that is a huge gain so I'm now thinking about how to make a top for the carb that makes a radius. So testing with the aircleaner now with the spacer and the radius on the carb the whole lot pulled 274cfm. To put this into perspective I started with 235cfm with the original carb and housing and now I have 274cfm, a 39cfm gain and staying within the rules of the class. WINNING!!!

That manifolds faces have been machined to suit another engine that has the block and or heads decked, I would put money on it. The manifold faces are a lot thinner than any other manifold I have seen, I know you said it was new but no way that is how they are produced and sold in stock form, I just did a TFC manifold for a cast iron headed engine and it fit no worries.

PS. great user name Stumps, I was going to get mine changed to my usual name on the forums but that might start to get confusing hahahaha

I also would never bother stroking a crossy, if anything I would consider destroking a small amount to gain rpm and lower piston speed, even then I probably wouldn't bother unless someone else was paying for me to experiment LOL

I personally would ditch the spacer to get the tallest aircleaner that will fit on there, short aircleaners choke flow to the carb.

HAHAHA just finishing off the rest of the jobs that I had already lined up mate, this bloke is 1 of the guys that I will be looking after his work just for fun, I tried to convince him to buy my tunnel ram by sending this pic of his engine while it was in my workshop, he called me all sorts of names but stuck with the TFC LOL

Yes I did, I will post them up later on.

Just finished porting a TFC manifold for a burnout car, worked out real nice. I have to do a set of 2V heads for it as well so I will post up the results when I get to them.

Here is my youngest boy, he looses his mind everytime there is a race car in the workshop LOL. He knows all the blokes names as well and everytime the phone rings he says "is that Wombat or Wolfy or Corky?" "Are they bringing the race car over?" He can't get enough I have to drive him around in the front yard in them HAHAHA

That would be my choice but the speedway class states that the webber has to be used unfortunately.

Slydog, Corky is buying a house at the moment so the ute is on hold for a little bit until he moves all his gear, the ute will be awesome, he is wanting to do the whole procharged mega power action and I'm sure he will head east when it's done. The 6's are just for fun, he just puts a bit more effort into his fun than most people LOL

Sly I'm the last bloke to tune a driver LOL he always go's on about having to improve so that's good. He got enough points during last rounds heats to start on pole in the final but he had a couple of average corners and ran 2nd instead, either way we are faster every meet so that's the direction we want to be going in, state titles are in 3 rounds time and if we can get in the top 10 of the state then we have done well.

Tony that would be great, I know nothing about suspension setup, tyre pressures etc etc. will shoot you a PM later today mate. The injected guys that said it couldn't be done don't talk to me anymore hahahaha

I couldn't see a kit for the ADM, just single jets for $7. I might be better off just buying the jet drill bits.

thanks guys, I would like to fill the back side of the guide boss and reshape/taper the tail, one day I will do it. I've always said I would share my stuff ups as well as the things that go well, I never want to mislead people, I will make mistakes along the way hopefully not many HAHAHA. I have also ported the Aussiespeed 4 barrel manifold for this head and flows an average of 204cfm with the manifold on so should go well. I agree Ando that the swirl wing could be layed back a little but I didn't want to change the compression of the engine, I may give it a light touch still. Dave funny thing is the tissue has become part of my testing routine now LOL just to make sure there is no more leakage.

Well I have the pleasure and opportunity to develop a head for Chris's Cortina, already a very serious engine and produced very good numbers already. He sent the head and aussiespeed manifold down and I run some flow tests and took some pics for comparisons of before and after work, the head had already been ported by someone else and I was keen to see what he had done, the port flows OK but I'm very confident of finding some good gains throughout the lift range. The valve sizes in the head are 1.84in intake and a 1.6in exhaust and we will stick with those sizes, unfortuanetly the valves and springs in the head weren't what he was told they were, the valves in the head were an EVL 3 groove item for both the intake and exhaust and the spring pressures were measured at 114lbs seat pressure, Chris was told differently and lead to believe he had better quality items installed, also the springs were installed with a flat washer shim which I don't recommend, either an internal or external locating unit should be used. The valve seats are a form I personally wouldn't use, they are a 45 seat with a radiused bottom cut, I prefer multiple sharp angles for better fuel atomisation and flow at the valve seat so this will be recut also. Intake Flow figures for this head are 50 28.37 100 58.21 150 92.13 200 117.51 250 143.38 300 166.34 350 181 400 193.51 450 198.82 500 203.6 550 199.19 600 198.18 650 196.5 The main problem with the results are they start to fall over well before Chris's cam lift of 600thou. As I said the results are OK but not as good as I was expecting before I got the head. The Exhaust port is untouched but I will do a little work in there also. The other things that let the job down is poor match porting to the head with both the thermal insulator and also the gaskets hang in the port etc etc, it's just little details but they are the things that matter to me that show pride in a job. Anyway that's the past and we are looking forward with a few upgrades with the head and work on the manifold as well as a new set of headers Here are some pics of the head and I will start work on this in the new year.