Just an update, I had to wait for the weather to clear up (no luxury garage ), I pulled the rad and then balancer/timing cover off and realigned to tdc which the mark on the pulley was about 30 mm out so outback jack was correct around 12 o'clock was good

I put it all back togther with new timing cover gasket/seal and said a few hell marys and turn the key and it purred like a cat

warmed it up and put it into timing mode which took a few goes (knew something was going to go wrong it was going too well )

Set it to 5deg and through some 98 fuel it it and it is like a new motor.

Cheers and thank you fro everyones help

It doesn't want to run probably I think I will pull timing cover /harmonic balancer off and realign and remark the balancer as I don't think that mark is correct ?

that pcv valve is no good and waiting for one to come in the mail this week

Kool thank you Lets see how that goes :)

Those muppets are making life hard :)

Yeah from this http://www.fordmods.com/ef-el-ecu-catch-codes-t30186.html

Mine is 2DMA - 1993 XG UTE, AUTO, No Smartlock

Yeah ecu has 2DMA

Got pic but exceed my limit of uploads

Cheers for the help and pics, this is my motor I think that timing case looks like a ef/el one ?

I'm not sure what I doing wrong but does this look right ?

There is only one mark on my timing case which is a v looking plate with a line in the middle and no other markings.

There is also no mark on the harmonic balancer either, well one small mark on the inside which seems to be it ???

So I'm assuming now that (timing mark plate thingy)  maybe the 10 deg mark

Hopefully tomorrow If the treat it as the 10 deg btdc I might be ok ???

Thanks for tfi info as I wasn't sure where to have it pointing.

40 minutes ago, Outback Jack said:

You need to bridge the two pins on the left hand side of the diagnostic port to set the timing.
That puts it into diagnostic mode.
Then set to 10 degrees advanced or where the timing mark says IGN, that is 10degrees BTDC.
If you don't bridge those wires you won't get the timing right.

Before you do that....

Make sure you have the motor set up on the compression stroke on Top Dead Centre then Number one on the dizzy cap should be if your looking from front of motor, towards you and over towards the motor side.

Firing order is 153624.

Best of luck mate.

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Cheers mate I was doing that but the car wont start. only thing I'm not sure of is there is a metal ( V looking) plate coming of the timing cover with a line down the middle but I'm not sure if that is the 0 mark or 10 deg mark as there is nothing on it to say and maybe that's my issue as I'm lining it up with that mark ???

I did know about bridging those ports but need to be able to start it first probably :)

On 9/29/2020 at 8:43 PM, Outback Jack said:

Have you got the sock filter on the end of the pump? Was there one there before you changed the pump?
The real fuel filter under the ute on the passenger side under the side window is the one you changed?
If no, change fuel filter.

If yes to all that....
There is a little joiner for the fuel pump that goes to the hard-line inside the tank, like a plastic donut. Piss that off and put a piece of efi fuel line there and hose clamps. They don't seal well after all the years.
Then check you haven't accidentally knocked off a vaccum line under the bonnet. Shake the PCV valve and make sure its working.

If all that is good, I will help you find the problem mate.
Another XG owner here.



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Yes it had a sock on it albeit dirty but was there,

It started fine but it was rough as guts and the sounded like the timing was out of whack.

Last owner apparently put a new dizzy in it but couldn't get it going which ended up being a fuel relay instead.

So I thought I redo the dizzy and redo the timing but what a nightmare

I set it like the falcon manual says and car wont start at all

I need to point the rotor at nearly 9 o'clock before it will even start but very rough and smell the richness of fuel

So I must be doing something wrong

The way the manual has the tfi module and rotor just does not work for for some reason

Oh yeah I will replace that donut looking thing I was lazy and left it on

Hey guys, has anyone got a pdf or link to

Ford Falcon XG Ute & Van 1993 Repair Manual Supplement

cheers

or even a pic of how the dizzy is fitted.

I brought a Fuelmiser fuel pump today and fitted it.

It started fine but running/idling rough as guts.

I did put a new fuel filter on it a couple of weeks ago, wondering if I should get another one or just pull it off and check it first ???

I need to pull the fuel pump out again  as the sender unit is reading a 1/4 more than it should ( I can't win with this ute )

But atleast it is running.

2 hours ago, Outback Jack said:

Might be the pump or something connected to it.
Fuel pump relay- green one near brake booster on drivers side.
Test with a multimeter. Should be 60ohm give or take 10%.
If its not, replace it.
Open up your hatch in the back of the ute, get the fuel pump wiring, should be a plastic plug, unplug it, run multimeter across the fuel pump wires.
Should be less than 10ohm resistance.
If not replace pump.

Could also be a blocked fuel filter but try those two things first.

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Cheers will look at them tomorrow

The pump is very noisy, its been like that since I brought the ute

I thought it was just like that in the falcon utes as I haven't owmed a ute (vh dodge ute) for around 20 or so years and couldn't remember if they were noisy or not

I have a 1993 xg falcon ute 4 liter

I went for a cruise today as I had some stutter issues on acceleration which I tracked down to a crack in the hose of the map sensor on the manifold side.

Car run beautiful until the way home, it died.... turn key and it has a weak prime sound and then the pump stops, prior to this when you start the car you can hear the pump running all the time.

Do you think the fuel pump has died?

Cheers Guys

all sorted, came off quite easy with a longer spanner

did find a broken 10 mm bolt on water pump pulley so glad I did this

1 minute ago, gerg said:

The nut on the shaft part (before the fins) is where it undoes from. You need to hold the pulley from turning though. I just push down hard on the belt to increase tension and stop the pulley from turning. You can also try and wedge a big screwdriver between the bolt heads and the nut but clearance is rather tight.

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Kool, thank you

I'll give it a go tonight if I get home before it gets dark otherwise tomorrow.

Hey guys,

I want to put on a new water pump on my XG , is there a trick to getting off the clutch fan?
In my crappy manual it says there should be a nut (left hand thread) + some special tool to hold it.
I can see you can put a shifter on the shaft part before the fins but the end where I assume the nut is suppose to be is only a curled spring... My EA motor is the same so I assume the manual is pulling my leg

So how do we pull the clutch fan off the water pump ???

Cheers guys, will have a good look tomorrow as I would like to do a service on the tranny,

It did look like a sealed unit but was just so use to the EA (1988) with a dipstick to check the level and I thought I was going mad or blind :D.

Hey guys, 93 XG falcon ute 4spd auto
How can I find out what auto I have?
The other day I thought I would check my tranny fluid level but do you think I could find the dipstick
I checked my workshop manual and it says it should be on the right hand side buf not there...
I jacked it up to have a look and see if there was a name or number somewhere as I assume there is a plate of some sort with number on it ?
I will grab some pics of the tranny tomorrow if I can get a good shot of it.
Cheers

Fyi, 3pk925 fits perfectly

Could be

will know next week when the new belt gets delivered

Hopefully all is good

What you guys using for alternator belt for the 4.0 lt

3pk895 is way too small for my 93 XG ute

Tried it on my EA to see if it fit there but too small for it too.

A bloke at Burson was saying about a problem with the adjuster ???

I have order a 3pk925, hoping the 30 mm wont be too big but I think it will work (cross fingers)

Has anyone else had the same issue (well I think someone would as it is too small)

All is well now as diagram from diagram 21-3-5 shows connector pin loctions

What ohms range should I be getting on my 93 XG falcon ute coil ?

I have three coils here all get 01.3 - 01.5 ohms minus 0.5 multimeter resistance so 0,8 - 1.0

one was off my ea falcon which was working fine but produces no spark on my XG ???

one which looks brand new which came with the car which was part of a kit dizzy/coil rae brand from repco

the other was on the car

all don't produce spark well not that I can see by myself

UPDATE :

worked out that the TFI module is not pulsing the coil so I have order another TFI module

Now someone in the past has cut and extended the wiring for the coil but has a different coil on it from the standard in they have cut the injector style connector to just two wires with female spade terminals fitted.

new coil has the normal connector with one red and one orange wire coming out of the connector

there is no markings on the coil or terminals to tell which wire is which

so I assumed (hoping logical) that the red wire was the hot side and orange was the pulse side from the tfi

but I'm not 100 % sure and wondering if I have it wrong... did I cook the tfi module, as apparently it had a new distributor put in it ???

Is there a way to work out which wire goes to which side of the coil ???

I dont want to put the tfi module in and then have the coil wired up wrong and kill the tfi.....