adrianphu123

why not go for an E series T5?

nah $2.20 was for the adaptor

yep, converts imperial to metric and its a different kind of flare i think.

I think he meant the actual brake line, i got the part for $2.20

nah its just dirt

Just took the bonnet hinge rubber off to look at the other side of the vent. No sign of any rust even starting, let alone rusting through.

underneath the guard is fine 

I pulled off the grommet and the damp area seems to be at that level. The grommet is in perfect condition and tight though and the damp sits away from the grommet, not against it.

Just got one, MF121-10-03 from ABS Auto brakes & service.

the a pillar on the inside is dry and the clutch pedal is dry also, the area shown is behind the kick panel on the drivers side. The entire plenum area is clear.

Hey guys imgetting water in the area shown. Not a lot considering i drove for an hour and parked for about 2.

Before we conclude its the plenum rust, the vent underneath is dry and the vents are intact as shown

Any ideas what it could be in that area?

thanks

adrian

dont forget the ground strap from body to bellhousing too

I'll look into that. I put on an old radiator cap that i know is good, appears to have fixed the problem somewhat. Will monitor over the next few days

yeah i had to ask about that one too when i undercoated the bottom of the car. To reinstall, just insert and pinch.

top hose pressure is normal and its not missing or running rough

spread the two flaps in the middle and you should be able to pull it out.

just changed the temp sender and the fan clutch. Still doing it.

It'll run at 1-2 bars for a period of time and then have an episode of fluctuation. 

i would not recommend wiring it to the starter, which seems to be a real smart idea, but could result in flooding if the motor doesnt need a prime ie. when hot. Try connecting it up to a "momentary on" type push button switch and only giving it a quick prime when needed.

that looks to be a primer. What are the wires from the solenoid connected to? there might only be one, the other is a ground which grounds on the bracket.

make sure your mixtures are good i.e. get it tuned and try holding the throttle open a little bit. Not a lot, just experiment with it until you get it right

I made my entire exhaust on my XF, first time i touched a welder so its not hard. just buy mandrel bends and piece it together like a jigsaw. It can be a pain in the ass but it was enjoyable pun not intended. One piece of advice, dont try and save money by buying a 90 degree mandrel bend, cutting it in half to get 2 x 45 bends. Fitment will suck and you'll blow holes in it. I welded hot with a series of tacks and its not about just getting from point A to B but also making sure you can get to C and D and E from there.

Hey guys, once in a while, the clutch cable bracket on the pedal end will rub against something at the top of the clutch pedals travel.

The part im talking about is http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-XA-XB-XC-XD-XE-XF-XG-FALCON-CLUTCH-CABLE-PIVOT-FORK-PEDAL-END-/290683552962?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ae1704c2&_uhb=1

Any ideas on what causes this? The pin appears to be welded up pretty solid so i dont think thats loose. Clutch is otherwise fine.

thanks

adrian

turns out its still doing it, intermittent though.

Not a headgasket since temp goes up and down, top hose pressure is ok, no water and oil mixing.

Will try the fan clutch, i did notice that was leaking when i did the water pump.

yeah just changed the thermostat and belt. no other changes. went for another drive today. everything seems fine.

just an update, overall im happy with there its at

first drive, temps rose to 3 occasionally, all the air still hadnt bled out of the system

let it cool, topped it up and went for a second long drive. Temps stayed at 2 bars. 

Will continue to monitor over the next few days.

Just use your hands. I removed all of mine without any tools, just be very careful and go slow.