adrianphu123

if you have one, put a proper gauge on it to see where its actually running at. From my experience, the factory gauge can fluctuate wildly.

 

If you really want the dumped at the diff idea, get a full system made up and have it flanged before the diff so you can take the tail pipes out, get your jollies and put them back in when you get sick of it

i did that with my 6cyl, took it up the street dumped before the diff and by the time i came back down the street i was committed to putting the rest of the exhaust back on.

i did a brake upgrade a while back, slotted rotors, rekitted calipers, new hoses, new master cylinder and new fluid for all 4 wheels. Renewed, they're not bad brakes. They're not hard to do yourself, as long as you have access to an air compressor to remove the pistons.

should have used protection mate

for the seat. i meant the seat.

is that the one that keeps leaking? you need to helicoil it, replace the bolt and stop doing it up like a wheelnut 

that little egr pipe is just going to piss you off when you try and tighten the top bolt on no.5 header tube

I needed an adaptor when i did this conversion.

turns out rarespares sell em, you can do a crossflow for under $40. The studs appear to have a tapered thread on the part that goes into the head. Is this normal?

the spring washers were all flat when i took them off so i guess they're useless anyway

I tightened them to 30 NM but it felt a little excessive, on the last bolt ripped the thread from the head. Next time im going to dial it back to 20-25NM

sorry for the hijack, is it a bad idea to run spring washers? i just stripped a header bolt hole. 

I didnt think to check the current design of the collector

As you can see, not great by any stretch.

When extending the secondaries, is it a case of the longer the better or is there a general rule to it? and from a fabrication standpoint, i dont think pacemakers are a two piece flange. This might sound stupid, but how did you weld up each extensions right in the middle of the two pipes?

If you're using headers with a thinner flange compared to the stock manifold, make sure you use shorter bolts of they'll bottom out before clamping the header flange onto the head. I got a pack of header bolts from rarespares 

personally, im not a big fan. Yes they're good for their price, maybe, but i feel like there are other better header designs out there. I'd prefer to pay a little bit more and have a better header design. Look into the Hurricane headers range, either HU133ST or HU252A

i dont think its an expansion chamber mate, were you thinking of a pressure wave termination box?

To clarify, my set of headers has a 2.5 inch outlet, im thinking of tapering it down imediately after the last collector down from 2.5" to 2.25" to help the gas clear the collector, and then slowly taper it back out from 2.25" to 2.5"

hey guys, just wanted your opinion on something i've been looking into. 

What about welding something like this onto the back of the collector

Its meant to go from 2.5" to 2.125" with a 12 degree taper. you'd cut it right as it starts to taper, discard the excess straight tube and weld that right to the back of the collector in order to speed up the flow and help it clear the collector?

(in actual fact, it goes from 2.5" to effectively 2" which might be too small and the taper is wrong (17 degrees) in that due to my measurement error.)

Then you can taper it back out to 2.5" using another transition like so

That piece is meant to go from 2.125" to 2.5" with a 7 degree taper. In actual fact, it goes from 2" to 2.5" with a 7 degree taper.

What do you guys think of the concept? Any measurement suggestions? The transitions havent been welded up properly, just in the thought experiment phase right now. I'm thinking 2" effective ID neck is too small, the secondarys on my headers are 2" so 2.25" effective ID neck might work better to ease the 2" secondary to the 2.5" exhaust. Its only a mild motor but i wanted to test the concept out.

thoughts? ideas? suggestions? is the concept fundamentally flawed?

yeah, i bought a hurst shifter stick and ball. it goes straight up 8 inches and back 3 inches, doesnt lean left or right. 

I didnt buy it from rocket, i got mine from Hills mustangs who imported it from the states, but this may be it. https://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/HU5380015

Make sure you call them up and confirm its for a T5 as im just eyeballing. They have the shift knobs too.

For emergency cleaning of greasy hands to touch the missus : laundry detergent

if you adjust it one way and it doesnt go into gear, try adjusting the other way. However, if its slipping, its probably time for a new clutch anyway.

I dont see clutch slip and difficulty getting into gear being related.

Clutch slip would be caused by a worn clutch or cable adjusted incorrectly so that its releasing a bit all the time. Difficulty getting into gear would be caused by cable adjusted incorrectly so that its not releasing enough or bad syncros/fluid.

just use whatever you used to seal the water pump to the block. give that a try first. If its not leaking between the pump and the block then leave it. they usually do have a gasket between plate and pump so you might have just not taken notice when you installed it. No point touching it if its not leaking. Replace bolts one by one, not all at the same time

it should be block - sealant - paper gasket - sealant - plate - paper gasket - water pump. Did you put thread sealer on the bolts?

The top drivers bolt also holds the alternator bracket. Could you have loosened the bolt while moving the bracket to put the alternator back on?

Did you scrape all the old gasket off the block? did you clean the threads of the bolt and the bolt holes?

If you can live without aircon, take it off  and grab the alternator only bracket. Looks a lot cleaner, belt changes are a lot easier 

Hey guys,

My tail light gaskets are starting to get a bit old and are starting to allow water to weep through. Has anyone bought any new or made their own? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

adrian

Go with a T5 if you can find it and a 3.27 or 3.23 diff. You'll be turning round 2000rpm in 5th gear at 100km/h.

Im running a 200 mixer and it exits at a right angle unlike the 225 which goes in and out in a straight line so intake piping is easier. Goes nicely with the T5 .and 3.27diff gears. One thing to consider with piping the intake that way, the power steering reservoir might get in the way. Im running manual steering so its not an issue.

With the EFI manifold, if you intend on running straight LPG for good, use welch plugs to block off the injector holes.

its an XF falcon with ED diff and brakes. It doesnt have internal handbrake shoes, it has a handbrake integrated with the calipers. The thing is, it didnt do it until about a week ago so somethings different to when i put it together 6 months ago. I'll keep looking at it.

thanks mate, cant hurt to give it a try today.

Hey guys

Im getting a bit of squeal from the rear rotors but only in the first half minute or so after sitting for about half a day. Its not constant squealing, but almost like a high spot on the rotor and you get a short squeal each time it passes. The squeals are louder after sitting with the ebrake applied as opposed to sitting with the ebrake off.

After driving for about half a minute, everythings fine, no pedal pulsation.

Im running ED calipers and RDA rotors which are less than 6 months old on the rear. I'll relubricate the slide tracks between the bracket and pad first but any other suggestions?

thanks

adrian