adrianphu123

I recently put a DC LTD 3.27 lsd into my xf and didnt have to change anything except the tailshaft, brake fittings and handbrake cable(E series back section is 2 piece, you can keep the existing front section on your XF).

its called a pinchweld, literally grab it and pull it off and then you'll see how it works. no gluing or anything like that.

Hey guys, just after some suggestions regarding where to mount extra gauges in an XF. Im out of ideas, i have 2 gauges with cups but nowhere to mount them. thanks adrian

I'll vouch for a 3.27, did the conversion and i cant believe i put up with a 2.92 for so long

At least one of them is losing the positive feed intermitiently when you grabe the wire near the holder and wiggle it so i thought i'd clean them all up while im there. Really dont want to splice and solder if i can.

Is it possible to remove the terminal and wires going into the factory holders in an XF? if so, how? thanks adrian

nah i left the welds unground. Should have really ground them back but last time i tried that, i ground the whole mount out of square hahaha

ok guys, here are the photos. Unfortunately, there are no pics of the mount just by itself, but imagine a wedge with studs for mounting the gauges and studs to mount to the console. The mount has been etch primed, primed and then painted in trim black. Welds are unground and then inside of the mount is hollow but sprayed with weld through primer. Heres how the front of the console is mounted. The plate is bolted to the factory mounts and console is mounted to the plate using the studs at the bottom of the gauge mount. The rear of the console is bolted to the factory bracket. The console in position. Dont worry about the wiring, it'll all be cleaned up nicely when finished. Heres where they sit. And the view from the drivers seat. The right gauge is the fuel gauge so im not worried that the steering wheel blocks it slightly. A shot of the wiring in the back. This will go to a quick disconnect plug and the wiring already on the car will get trimmed back and crimped to the corresponding plug. and finally, if anyone was wondering what the top face where the gauges mount to look like, heres version 1 i made for it. The top looks exactly the same. Hope you all enjoyed viewing!

I'll give a quick rundown of how i tackled this problem. I have an aluminium console fabed up so i could mount a fire extinguisher between the seats. I decided to mount 3 gauges under and just infront of the centre controls on the dash. I wanted them orientated so that i could see them clearly from the drivers seat(next best option because i really wanted them in line of sight). In order to achieve this, i fabricated a wedge shaped mount, angling the gauges upwards as well as turning them towards the driver. Pics will come later tonight for those interested.

nearly there, just got the quick disconnect plug to wire up and then find my camera

wouldnt recommend draining back to sump, mine drains water from condensation when i open the tap

Not a v8, but i have one on my 6. Just run a line from the rocker cover to the can with a breather on top. I've seen them done a few ways. 1. Breather on each rocker cover 2. One can for each rocker cover 3. One can for both rocker covers Its really up to you, as long as you can relieve the pressure. And no, generally you dont plumb it back to the sump.

loose lead?

I got something in the works, might have pics up tomorrow if i finish it.

Make sure you get some underlay too. I have mine in atm with no underlay and its a very loose fit.

maybe something like this? http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=179300 http://www.apamfg.com.au/main_pages/valving_apa.html Theres more info on the service relief valve by combining a service and relief valve, it frees up one outlet for another service line. As for a part number or where to get one, i have no clue but your best bet would be to call APA

Hey guys, this week has culminated in a double penetration of issues. The drivers side wheel is squealing when turned backwards only by hand ie. front jacked up and turned by hand without brakes applied. It will not do it when turned forwards. Wheel bearings were replaced last year, slotted rotors with bendix general ct pads. Also started noticing a rough spot/vibration in one spot, only when reversing and turning. Tie rods were replaced last year, just greased them today but didnt help the problem. any ideas? are they related or two seperate problems? thanks guys

Think you guys might be on the ball, put pressure on the pad and even though it didnt seem to move, the squeal is more or less gone. I'll keep looking for the rough spot, the steering seems to have a slight groan when turned

should have been more specific, rough spot/vibration is at one spot in the turn of the steering wheel, not road wheels.

Can it be done? thanks adrian

i was going to do it just for paint, but i think i'll wait till i need to pull the motor before doing it.

I think the front channel does have a different piece, since its a bit narrower (i think) the kits i bought have two seperate pieces, one piece narrower than the other for the front i assume.

they are actually different(the one on the ebay ad and the xf sender i had), the sender unit is different and the wires are also a different colour. Both units are made by bosch and the plug is exactly the same. I used the one in the link to replace the leaking one i had and it works perfectly.

This might help you http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290525081454

I just took my XF diff out, let me know if you're interested.