adrianphu123

On the chassis, not on the diff.

maybe a bit of WD40? i've never had a stubborn one before.

the rotor should just pull out of the top of the shaft.

I got my blaster3 for 60 bux, so 90 is a bit steep. I replaced my leaking stock coil with one and its working fine. The only thing is, they dont fit in the standard crossflow coil bracket, I had to make one up.

Hey guys Bought a set of slotted and dimpled RDA rotors (since they've dropped their slotted only range) to suit an ED diff, and the countersunk hole for the locating screw is drilled too deep. I run out of thread before the rotor is properly secured onto the axle flange. Done all the way up, the rotor will still wobble so its clearly an issue. Part number RDA111B. Anyone else have this issue? just a bad batch?

Thanks for the offer mate but i already have the tailshaft. The K5-13 is listed for steel and aluminium tailshafts but it seems both part numbers are spread over the X series.

Hey guys, need to know what my tailshaft is out of, Diff is off an DC LTD(apparently) but not sure about the tailshaft. I believe it is steel and has a flange type on the pinion end. Are the lengths the same? The LTD being a LWB car, would it be longer? Wanting to know so i can get new unis for it, Part numbers are different for DC and ED. Thanks adrian

Thanks guys, DCs are listed as RUJ-2038R, EDs are listed as K5-13XR. Are they interchangable?

9/16UNF from memory. You dont actually need an installer, what i did was get a bolt from an engineering shop which is a bit longer than the original and wind it down with that. If theres an unthreaded section on the shank of the bolt, be careful not wind the bolt too deep and force the unthreaded section into the threaded section of the crank. Then use your original bolt and drive it home.

spoke to a brake guy today, confirmed that the screw can be left out. Pretty poor from RDA though

Judging from the experience this guy had, http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/696-rear-discs/ Im betting that screw is important. I'll talk to RDA on monday

The part i dont understand is, normally EB2 onwards uses wider bushes. Is a DC LTD an exception to that?

Hey guys Just wanted to know if anyone knew, what is a differential out of a DC LTD equivalent to Eg. EA, EB1, EB2, ED? Its a 3.27 ratio LSD with a flange type pinion but will fit XF lower control arm bushes? I was told the diff i have is equivalent to an ED

Hey guys Something thats been happening recently, when slowing to a stop at low speed, clutch engaged and transmission in neutral. I've been getting a vibration through the body of the car. It doesnt happen often, pretty rarely actually but it'll get your attention when it occurs. I've also noticed an occasional rubbing noise when taking off from the lights, almost like a high spot on the rotor since sometimes it happens once or twice, like the pads are hitting a high spot on the rotor. The two might be related, i don't know. Im running XF brakes in the rear but will probably be switching to an ED diff setup in the near future. Any ideas? Brake related work over the past year: All calipers recoed, new slotted rotors, new pads, new hoses, new master cylinder, new fluid

You'd think warped rotors would vibrate everytime you brake? not just occasionally

Hey guys, Noticed oil being thrown off the front of the motor, suspect its being thrown off the harmonic balancer meaning im down for a front main seal. Are these hard to replace? Anything i should look out for? thanks adrian

FInished this off a while ago with a new powerbond balancer. So far so good.

This thread kind of got me thinking of doing this conversion myself. What about something like this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PAINLESS-WIRING-FAN-THOM-II-ELECTRIC-FAN-RELAY-WITH-THERMOSTATIC-SWITCH1-PW30103-/181092254994?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a29f08512&_uhb=1#ht_2834wt_1205

Unigas here in NSW is apparently 100% propane and thats all i use

thanks for the advice guys, bolt has been removed. Just waiting on a puller, then i'll remove the radiator and pull the balancer off. Water pump was just done a month ago so that'll stay.

and getting the big bolt off the front, whats the best method?

oil level is fine, might think about replacing the balancer with a powerbond street unit as they're not terribly expensive. Does the radiator and fan need to come out?

wholesale suspension in sydney got them for me. they might be able to send you some

if its rubber, burn it out. I've used a gclamp for urethane bushes before

its pretty easy, the legs slide under the window rubber from the inside. There are holes in the venetian that you can stick a screwdriver in and wedge it in a way that both pushes the venetian against the window and drives the legs upwards and under the rubber. Its hard to describe. Your parcel shelf is custom so theres no way for anyone to know if it will interfere or not. if anything, just make a new parcel shelf to accommodate I have a white one in mine and its hard to put it in without scratching the paint because it is a tight maneuver to get it into position