gromet88

and good luck with that. regency dont even pass that now unless it is way over engineered. had a mate of mine want to do a v8 convo on a xf ute, regency said no. so he questioned and looked into it alot more to find that if he bought one already converted interstate, with all the paperwork, it can be transfered to sa. work that one out! so thats what he did. still got it too, and sa rego'd!

not yet, havent got to it this week. had to get it done before mid this month but between work and kids, and working out the back here, so lol, bought something else for the minute but will give this some more time hopefully this weekend. i think it might be another loom, whichcould be more hassle then i have time for at the moment so it might go back in the corner for a couple of months. sad but these things happen. bit of annoying really, seems to be something really simple but yet annoyingly finichy!

Ok so i've been slowly thinking, i better start chipping away at some of the long long *deep breath* long list of projects, and with Oakbank (South Aussies will know) coming up, i need a different car to take, so long story short, i thought i would get the DC on the road. Some people may remember i mentioned about the SmartLock f'ing up on it for some reason. Long story short, it wouldn't start, it would only Flash the SL light and that was it. Tried numerous modules, no avail. I bought a SmartLock over-ride computer for it. Wired it in and now it starts like it should. But now (I never checked when i drove it last) i have no Low Beam lights. I have high beam and parks but no Low Beam. Now i know what everyone is thinking, Relay? Well it doesn't stop there. I at the moment, don't have interior lights, the dash works, but no backing lights and the stereo only works when you turn the lights on! But if you open the door, the dash back lights work if you turn the headlights on and eventually, the dash park lights flick on then off again. All the gauges work on the dash, incl clock and air con but no backing lights as above. Stereo is getting ign power but no constant 12V through yellow wire, unless you turn the headlights on, then it flickers on and off (on a volt meter, it jumps up and down, 12.6 then down to 8 then 12.6 etc etc. Then if you turn the car off and leave the lights on, it wont beep unless you open the door, then it beeps to tell you that you left the lights on and the oil light dimmly lights up on the dash. Either way, door open or closed i still have no interior lights. SO, urrr, HELP? Im thinking earth problem somewhere, something related to headlights and or door switches. All fuses in box (next to steering wheel) are fine. Dont want to take it to an auto elec where i get bent over and a hidden sausage. Maybe someone has encountered a similar problem?

its got a new dash loom in it, and ive checked that ground several times, had no difference withthat one cheers

Hey guys, cheers for ideas but have changed the BCM, several times. Have reset and rest and reset. Also changed the green one next to it, no change. Will try the two wires together at back of stereo and see how that goes. Have joined two wires together at back of BCM as well, all no differ. i have checked all obvious earth connections, all secure. i have the manual, but doesnt tell me shit about everything on the circuit. im going to give it another short go this week then might be sending it off to auto elec next week,

does anyone know what is on the CRT LP curcuit?? Because thats where it lies really . Have checked door swtiches and wires, nothing shorting out on that, next ideas??

Well ive been picking and poking at it, still not solved it. Now ive got it somewhat nailed down to somewhat the lights circuit (i think). The park lights stay on on the dash (not the rest of the car), but go off when you turn the headlight switch on (either park or lights), they go off but the park lights come on the car. Strange i know. so it seems theres something running backwards somewhere. Ive tried changing the headlight switch, dash cluster, unplugging the headlights, still, no change. argh! (if it didnt run so well, do some nice (Nova's expression) skids and sound so damn nice, it'd prob be off to china by this point!)

thats why i think its door switches, because when i open the drivers door, the dash lights up

Well its become a hell of a doosie indeed. got told to change the smartlock computer, that didnt change a thing, its still blowing the same fuse. So im changing the door switches tomorrow to see if that solves anything. I connected the meter to the fuse outlet, and i was getting 13volt coming through the CRT LP cradle so i would think its not earthing or something somewhere, so next in the line up is the door locks because things change when you open and close the drivers door.

good one, will check

It does. Does anyone know whats on the curcuit? (Obviously Courtesy Lamps). Is there anything else?

****UPDATE**** Ok first things first, i changed the low beam relay, solved the low beam issue. BUT no movement on the rest but i did remember about the SmartLock problem solve, which one person said about side blinkers. Nope, not working. So in my wisdom, i finally found my Gregorys book and found about the CRT LP fuse. I honestly thought i checked all the fuses but i must not have. It was blown, but trying to put another one in, it either melts or just blows. So i guess i've nailed it down to that circuit. Next, where to start or is there a normal spot these go??

the manual that came with it said at the computer, so thats where it was installed. never drove it at night so dont know about the low beams, interior light didnt work, neither did the aircon or clock. since putting over ride in, now the air con does and the clock does but not sure about the rest as it didnt come with a stereo. Indicators work, tailights and front parks work when turn lights switch on. well thats the million dollar question, where!?!?!

take a look at both set ups before swapping. if the plates are the same, shouldnt be a problem apart from obviously the shifter. im with bear, its hard to tell. ive never converted back, always converted to floor personally

wouldnt waste ya time. buy a normal audio store amp and put it under a seat. factory amps arent designed to do anything but sell the car im afraid

i was lucky i guess chev, i just bought a new xr and it had all the bells and whistles including bluetooth. was driving home and didnt even know until someone rang me and the stereo cut out! good luck though but i would prob install it yourself if you have the time and then get ford to activate it. otherwise maybe get ford to do the whole lot. that way, if they fark it up, then its their prob. auto elect's are great and they do normally cover anything if anything they break but some are abit dodge (im sure we all know that). just my two billy-bobs..

I'd prob just put a series 1 back in it, save all the trouble. i would say it would end up not working like the ef's have the different colour boxes, i would think au would be the same

i would say all is different. power steering lines, right through to bell housing bolts will be totally different. the set up is totally different from the early early x series to the e series and you will have a different sump pan/ clearance as well. the engine mounts would be different as well (from memory). it'll be basically like doing a e series set up into an xf. all from memory, from what i remember a friend doing a nc2 302 into a XB. REV will be the best to answer i think, but the question must be asked, what the hell happened to the 351?

plus you can change bases cant you?

wow i really do miss alot when im not around as much as i used to me, now that i think of it, i havent seen him for awhile, now i know why. strange

the brown one I I think would be for centre console light for auto gear stick, and the billet connecters are for the cig lighter

Best to connect all four wires. get a manual handy to work what colour is what, but from memory, on is 12+ ignition, one is -, one is 12+ battery memory, and the other is light dim for day brightness and night dimness. best to grab a manual to work it all out.

damn that was going to be my suggestion. pull the c**t off with a 4wd!

well if that's not a shadow biter right there, welcome back roobie!!, where ya been!?!

ha, they cant afford makita