Jiminy Kriket

Hey all, Trying to sort out a problem my sister's Series 1 AU has developed and they can't reregister without rectifying the problem. So it goes like this, the air bag warning light flashes constantly. With a little reading and googling i found that the flashing was the code 33, or Passenger Air bag Open Circuit or High Resistance. This series 1 au didn't come with a passenger side air bag, so a little more reading and I found that it could be as simple as the dummy resistor in the harness could've fallen out. So question time. 1. Where do I find the part of the harness in the au that the passenger air bag is meant to be plugged into? 2. Do I have to remove the dash to find it? 3. How do I clear the error code flashing on the dash? Other on dash problem, it has the service spanner up on the dash, but no matter how long you push the reset button for it won't clear. Possible reasons for this would help greatly. Thanks for reading.

unfortunatly, the missus has an auto only licence until next year, so no manual here...

Bloody wagon's biting me in the arse again. For the last few months the wife's been having some issues with the engine stuttering/misfiring when it's put into gear first thing in the morning. Well, this morning the friggin converter was seized. Had to do the old 3k and dump into gear then jump on the brakes to release it. Am i up shit creek and have to source another converter or is there a reasonably easy fix? I do have a complete EL auto sitting here, will that converter suit the au gearbox/engine or am i stuck looking for an au one? Thanks for any help

Okay, some serious help from the BTR gods is required fairly urgent. So, for the THIRD time this weekend i have changed the friggin gearbox in the wagon. 3 "known" good gearboxes have gone in and every single one has a different issue. 1st gearbox has some slip between 1st and 2nd when hot, but when cold drops drive through 1st altogether. 2nd gearbox has all the forward gears working normal, but when you put it in reverse, the friggin thing locks the converter solid and i can't stop the car moving. This is actually the box that was in the car causing the initial issues. 3rd gearbox, well this nut job of a thing has a beautiful reverse, 1st, 3rd and overdrive but 2nd seems to have packed it's shit and fucked off. the gearbox will hold 1st until about 4500 rpm, even accelerating gently, then it'll gently engage 3rd. Friggin weird. This is the box that is currently in the car. Question is of these 3 boxes, which is the easiest to repair? This is just the family dunger, but it needs to be reliable. If it's as easy as changing the valve body or one of the solenoids, then happy days i'll do it. But at the moment i'm just too frustrated to think straight. The other thing i've been wondering is what do they label S5 as on the valve body? I can see S1 ,2, 3, 4, and 6. I know S7 is in the pump housing, so where is S5? Is it the one marked DAMPER? Just another bloody thing doing my head in. I eagerly await everyone's input because at the moment i'm fucking lost.

cool, i actually have one of those sitting in the back of the parts wagon. might be able to rob the converter off that. Thanks for that TPAK. I won't be getting to that til next weekend, so if anyone can offer any more info on it i would appreciate it.

yep... torque converter. locks solid first ting in the morning, once it's cracked it doesn't stick again til the next morning. The missus isn't too keen on driving it at the moment. Looking like i might just find a reco box and replace the pair in case there's a drama in the box causing it to lock up, but any time i can save a little cash by repairing the old stuff. On that note, anyone who has an AU automatic transmission and converter they are looking to sell in the far north coast of NSW or SE QLD shoot me a message

Have you tried different H4 bulbs in your stock housings? On my xf the headlights were woeful (aftermarket housings) and i was recommended to try Tungsram +60 H4 bulbs and what can i say. It out performed my old mans BA with stock headlights and they were 100 times better than what i had in the xf. The bulbs are still rated at 60/55w so they don't strain the wiring to the headlight housing either. I know Narva and Hella also do an improved ouput range, so maybe try some better bulbs in the stock housings and see how they go. For less than $30 from my local truck and trailer supplier i couldn't be happier with my headlights. Exactly what i'm running in my car. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEADLIGHT-GLOBE-TWIN-PACK-TUNGSRAM-MEGALIGHT-PLUS-60-12V-60-55W-H4-50440MPU-/161068803090?hash=item258072e412:g:rNkAAMXQlgtS6Ia1

maybe check the alternator output while you're at it. if the battery has little reserve, the alternator should still be able to run everything.

Heater boxes are identical. Pretty sure that all you need to do is as deandx said, just remove the electronic control unit and slot the cable and clip for the manual control into it. Might need a couple of goes at it to get the position of the cable right in the flap arm.

Is the rocker cover breather hose connected securely? The elbow appears to be off the throttle body in that photo you posted. And the idle control hoses are connected together? Just blank those off with some electrical tape for a trial, i think that'll be where you are leaning out at idle. The port on the back of the throttle body is before the throttle blade, then you have it going straight to the plenum chamber. That would be one hell of a vacuum leak.

That could be an issue, the idle should drop or the engine stall when the isc is unplugged at cold engine temps.

Had any joy with this? I've just removed my peel unit from my car, so if you need $20 and freight and it's yours.

When i installed one of these in my car i had the +12V line was from the solenoid +12. The GND was as you said a fresh earth in the boot. The GAS wire is the positive wire from the gas level gauge. Now the hinky bit. To get the other 2 connections you cut the yellow green wire and the section that goes directly to the sender goes to the PET connection on the Peel unit. The loom end of the yellow green goes to the DASH connection. Hope that goes some way to clearing that up. Also, when i was using this unit i had to go roughly 160KM's before the Ghia dash would recognise a fuel drop. Then when the gauge read empty, i actually had about 120km's worth of gas left in the tank. All the adjuster knob did for me was change how many km's before the dash dropped off full.

what revs does it idle at? Does it idle smooth or is it rough as guts? When my carb setup used to play up like that it was usually the brass plug/corrector jet on the passengers side of the carb fouled up with crap from somewhere. I'd be checking that first. While you are in the carb area, as dave said check the filter on the fuel in side of the carb. And also look for split or loose vacuum connections on the carb itself. Always a bother those things.

Thanks guys, was a real pain to find that is for sure. Done now though. We have owned that car for 3 years and it has only just now cut that 3rd wire. What a pain.

I'm in desperate need of some electrical god knowledge. The car/evil worshipper of satan i am referencing is a Series 1 AU wagon. What in the hell goes bad in the ignition circuit that blows the engine fuse every time to turn the key to run? I've been through everything i can think of. I've unplugged everything i can find. The ecu, the bcm, the engine harness connector. Pulled every relay out of the bastard and it still blows fuses like they are nothing. Blows quickly enough you can actually hear the fuse crack and see the flash. I've check all the relay wiring independent of the fuse block. Pulled the fuse and applied power directly to each device and they all function as normal. Check every connection i can in the under bonnet fuse box and everything checks out fine. Pulling my hair out at this stage... Now for the kicker, My wife (who is 35 years old) is going for her p's tomorrow. The only car she feels comfortable driving happens to be this hell spawn of an electrical nightmare that is the au wagon. well, i hope and pray that someone here can help coz this one's got me stuffed...

All hail to the soothing sounds of Metallica whilst sorting out satans handiwork. Righto, where the hell do i begin. Fuel pump wiring checked out fine. 1st problem out of the way. 2nd, get into the fuse panel again and look for where the short is coming from. Check. Found that if i pulled the eecV relay the short on the eng fuse went away. Righto. Check for shorts on the eecV relay wires, found 1. On the bloody red feed wire that powers everything that the ecu sees... Damn. Traced the harness back until i got under the air box, then i found this little demon hiding in the shadows. You see that innocuous looking self tapper screw above the 3 wires that are all torn up? That was dead set driven through the centre of the loom pulling it hard into the inner guard. Thank you to the panel beater who screwed that back in after it's large front end impact. So, all fixed now. Wires reinsulated, loom rewrapped (and wrapped in a piece of heater hose just to be sure to be sure) and the little bastard of a screw cut short. Since we have owned the car we have had only 3 issues with it (in 3 years). 1 - Every time you hit the starter the battery would blow (The red wire in the middle is the starter solenoid wire) 2 - The neutral safety switch was ineffective (The red/Blue wire above the starter wire is one of the 2 neutral safety wires) 3 - The ENG fuse would blow when the ignition would turn on (The red wire at the bottom of the loom) All sorted with some beer, frustration and some sailor speak. Thank you for all the suggestions, very helpful. Onto the next drama.....

<p>Well, it's not the easy one... The fuel pump wiring checks out perfect.</p> <p> </p> <p>However i can stop it blowing fuses by pulling the eecV relay... Damn it...</p> <p> </p> <p>That just leaves everything that is controlled by the ecu... or the harness there in...</p> <p> </p> <p>I see many headaches in my future.</p> <p> </p> <p>And just for future reference, the wagons have the fuel pump wiring run down the passenger side as revhead just mentioned. so no exhaust problems in the wagons.</p>

It is a dual fuel vehicle, currently running on petrol as it has been for 3 trouble free years. If i pull the fuel pump relay and apply power direct from the battery to the power out wire in the relay socket the fuel pump runs fine, but i will double check the wiring. Okay, just read your post dave and now understand that even with the power feed wire shorted the pump could run just with reverse polarity. hmmm. Does the bumper skin have to come off to get to the wiring? The weirdest thing about this issue is the missus only moved the car 10 minutes before i tried to start it and then it failed. Anyways, you have given me some direction. I will return with further information.

I'd go for a devcon or loctite 2 part epoxy. There are a couple of different types, the kneading type and the liquid type. I've used the liquid type with good success. The kneading type i have found to be labour intensive, takes a bit of effort to get into all the nooks and crannies.

If you read the values on top of the relay on that board, it's only rated to 10 amps. You would need to feed a larger relay to run the thermo off that board.

Or you could go the way i have gone and run 2 separate temp switches in the water, 1 turns on at 85 degrees, off at 80. The other turns on at 90 and off at 85. All i have done is run them to 2 separate relays and then powered each fan from there. Cost about $40 a switch.

I can't comment on those 2 particular design of rims, but i have had to repair plenty of Advanti rims through work. Normally bent, not cracked. Plenty of big pot holes in my part of the country.

Hey guys, just want to pick your brains again. The wifes AU wagon has recently developed the issue where the ac will stop cooling intermittently. I can get it to start cooling again by switching the AC button off then back on. With the ac on, you can see the clutch engages and disengages without issue. What i am wondering is what sensor/relay issues should i be looking for? Still cools very well when it is running, but the clutch seems to disengage for no reason i can see. Any advice would help. thanks

Just a lowly old futura... No climate control in the old girl.