nickd

Turns out I was right they were factory fitted. Definitely keeping them on now!Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

These were a factory fitment from Ford, seen a few XD's with them on.

Nice find.

Will be watching with interest!!!

 

I would of thought a Barra conversion might be a cheaper option?

It was still ppg nick. I worked in a shop doing repaints for ford, ford were paying labor, ppg were supplying materials.

There you go, another interesting fact.

 

I'm only going by what I've been told and shown by two different ford dealerships that had cars in for paint/rust issues (BA's BF's FG's).

Both Ford employees had told me that Ford changed paint suppliers to a cheaper brand to save costs.

 

I suppose they don't make cars like they used too, it's all about cheap cheap and getting them out the door.

That isn't acceptable! Take it back.

 

Ford changed there Paint supplier from PPG to a Japanese paint (much cheaper in costs than PPG) in the series 3 AU onwards upto FG so any BA BF FG Series cars will have problems with paint and rust!

 

This is why its bitten Ford in the arse with recalls of cars with paint and rust issues there made much cheaper for more profit but the profit for ford is in there parts not in a complete car it's where they make there money unfortunately and why where they are now.

It's alive !!!

 

Major thanks to Ronny for getting this Crossflow to run, after going through replacing fuel filter and hoses I had given up but Ronny was permitted to get it started as we had some funny moments while working on the old girl.

 

It's amazing how something so small can make you check everything from fuel pump right back to the fuel sender (what a mission it was lol) as we covered everything we could think of as we thought it could be the fuel pump but we remembered your reply gerg ... Ronny magic's flat head screwdriver playing with needle and seat then bang we had fuel running through the carby as she started we had a perished heater tap.

 

Today I changed the heater tap and she practically started first turn key, I let her run for 15 mins then took it around the block twice with no missing running smooth as braking good but will need to fix the handbrake cable which is standard on these cars.

 

Thanks all of your replies with info gerg, SPArKy_Dave and thank you again Ronny couldn't have done it without your help.

 

Info on the car is a 1981 Dec build Ford XD Fairmont 4.1 litre Alloy Head Crossflow, sold from President Ford as my uncle had owned it from 1982 which I took ownership of in 1999 from Mount Waverly.

 

I have 2 options:-

 

1:- to sell it or

2:- part it out interior is immac has some great parts as we discussed with Ronny last night but ....

 

as there is some rust in the old girl all repairable but I've let the old girl go being parked up and the grandparents place for the last few years as I usually drove it when I needed a car to get to A to B.

 

I' have to make a decision ASAP but I'll keep you posted and post some pictures up as well of the old girl too.

I'll give it a go tomorrow hopefully it's something of the above.

 

Keep you posted.

Need advice on starting up a Crossflow 4.1 which hasn't been started in 7 years, it was a car that had a freak of an engine I'd start it up and it always cranked over first time and would leave it for a few years and then start it change oils plugs and it would just get up and go.

 

Spent half hour today trying to start it up, cranked a new battery poured about 10 litres of fuel in the tank and poured some fuel into the carbie with it turning over but no fire.

 

Soon as I pour fuel into carbie she fires up with choke pulled out to a minimum but then cuts out and switches off.

 

I'm going to spray some carbie cleaner and install a new fuel filter tomorrow as it looks like cactus but from what I can see it could be the fuel filter is blocking from starting up.

 

Anything else I should be looking at?

Thinking about putting dynamat down on the floor of my ute to cut down road noise also we have a Toyota echo that you can hardly hear the passenger yelling at you on the highway. Has anyone used this? Did it cut down road noise?Also just wondering how thick it is? The reason I ask is should I put under felt on top of it?

From personal experience I would use Resomat:- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Resomat-Premium-Car-Auto-Sound-Deadener-3-50-sq-mtr-box-/141212268519?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20e0e837e7&_uhb=1

 

Dynomat is good but resomat is a way better product suited to Australian conditions not like dynamat which is not.

This will not only cut down noise but will stop heat entering for a longer period of time than dynamat.

 

Used both and resomat is a product I recommend to all.

I've done the same with big size flat head screw-driver as Mick has suggested above, take your time some will bend but it's just how they are.

My Auntie and Uncle had one of these in Red, think it was built number #70-#71 or #75 in Adelaide but they sold it in 2003 for $700.00 to there family friend who then sold it on in 2006 and its disappeared since.

 

Nice car mate, like it allot!

good call mate I will get a hose onto and check it out.

 

How'd you go JGP?

Gents,

In todays heavy melbourne rain I noticed a drop of water where the rear window demister is connected (see pic with orange circle). Does this mean the rear window seal needs replacing or something else is going on?

I would do the smoke/water test first run your fingers across the inside of the roof lining to see if there are any damp spots.

 

Another theory is if you have water entering the car you will find (dampness/foggy) your windows will fog up from the inside of car.

 

If your window has been taken out in the past and hasn't been sealed properly you have water getting in I suggest you get a windscreen bloke to come out take window out clean rubber seal (you can do yourself) and re-install rear window knowing that it's been re-sealed.

If you do decide to take the window out you will see where the water is getting in and if there is any surface rust you can sand and clean tidy it up.

 

Wouldn't surprise me if its surface rust started to appear very common for these cars.

 

Probably cost you $70-80 for windscreen guy as it will be a good investment.

 

Hope this helps and best of luck look forward to hearing what the end result is.

I bought mine from Repco its a 3 core radiator.

 

This is the one I was talking to you about over the phone Cav.

 

Thanks for all of the above information, very much appreciated.

 

We rang Vicroads about the AU motor it will need an engineers certificate so this is a heads up for everyone else.

 

Trying to find a good motor (ed/ef/el xr6 Tickford) every single one we god has high km's or needs a head and impossible to find at a reasonable price as its a budget build.

 

So ... 3 options -

1- for now is to get a quote for the original bottom end and find a Tickford au series1/el head

 

2- we will try and do what Stevemack has recommend.

 

3- Try find a reasonable ed/el xr6 Tickford.

If the the FD 351 has rust you've done a great decision on another body, use everything from the V8 body to put onto the EFI body car example Wiring looms/dash/diff/petrol tank/ etc.

 

Best of luck with it all.

No problems with rego on vic putting a v8 into an 83 or 84 xe/zk/fd. Just an engine number change, done it a few times.

Wish it was as easy as Vicroads, every state has different laws especially Regency (Adelaide) are really tuff with these type conversions as you need an engineers certificate.

is the 351 car matching nos?

if so maybe think twice before stripping it...

I've asked this question on xfalcon, if it was me I would strip the six cylinder and use for parts for the factory 351 which is rare as in FD worth more and will hold better value than a 6 converted 8 car.

 

Too much stuffing around with EFI to convert to 8, to run a legally 1982 V8 in a EFI FD without engineers certificate it will have to be a 1982 shell (your being 1983) and on gas but that the 1983 model didn't come out in a v8 as will always have issues from Regency/RTA/RACV.

 

 

My 351 ones worth

Faith in humanity restored. The guy who sold it to me fully refunded my money even postage. That wasn't fair so I'll go him halves.

Sorry to hear about your glovebox but sounds great that seller was honest for refund, I didn't know how hard these are to get I've come across a few in cream with the LTD logo in very good condition.

 

It must be the colour as they are brittle in the cream colour for the consoles as they break easily.

 

If I come across one you'll be the first to know.

Correct Joe, H is with Auto Transmission I should included the Auto in my post but was only answering what he asked.

Hi the ford fan,

 

Engine code H in XD is 351 for NSW emissions.

 

Hope this helps.

Little confused here guys, my options are for the best cheapest conversion like Ants said in his post #5.

 

I've just been told you can run a au VCT engine it will bolt in using your engine mounts (XG), you would also need to change inlet manifold. gearbox is also no problem also will need to change the inlet manifold to the XG one.

 

We were planning to source a ed el xr motor after reading the first few posts but the au motor sounds more appealing if it can be done.

So you want to go from xg to au? Correct? In what car?

 

 

Ford XG Tickford engine with ideas of installing a AU VCT motor.

 

vct or non vct?, you can't fit a tin sump to an au engine without changing the timing cover (will cause issues if you want to run at au loom and ecu) and rear main cap (I wouldn't do that without getting the block line bored, it would also need to be a late El engine that had an au crank and rods as au have a larger main journal on the crank), an xg sway bar will clear an au sump most of the time although some cars you have to space the sway bay down to clear

So we won't go with the idea of installing a AU VCT motor sound too hard to as we want something simple for change over.

 

Would a EL XR6 motor fit no worries then into a XG xr6?

You seem to have some knowledge that I do respect and thank.

 

What we want to do is do an engine change over but looking at every option for a newer motor as we like the AU VCT motor but that's a no no for now.

Been looking at newer motors but looks like a hassle as we were thinking of installing a Barra motor but way expensive for what we want the car to do as a daily for economy and reliability and fun as it requires an engine certificate (maybe one day in the future not now).

 

Our last choice is to buy an existing Tickford motor from ed or ef and do the change over in the XG.

Thoughts ?

Hi guys,

 

Going to tickle your brains.

 

I was just wondering what is involved with a XG 4.0L motor conversion to a AU Tickford 4Lmotor?

I know I would have to change the sump to an XG one but is it a headache to change over with ecu etc?

What's involved so we know.

And is there an issue with Vicroads for the change over in motor or we'll stick to a XG/eb/ed motor.

 

Cheers

^^^Your right mcfly94,

 

There are guys who do this.

They don't fit properly in the pillars for XD/XE/XF/ZJ/ZK/ZL/FC/FD/FE models aren't exactly the same backing to our ones in Australia.