Xelisty

Yes rich but I had no clue until I saw that. The car feels strong and fast for what it is. Cracks a sub 6 sec 0 to 100. Where so you draw the line with tune safety. It's not a race car but street. It was tuned in Brisbane in 20-25 deg days with low humidity but they knew it was to be used in darwin 35 deg heat and very high humidity and I said I plan to take it down the strip. He knew there was no local tuners and he did not want anyone messing with it as he set it up for me. (although there may be a tuner but none have been found to date) It drives great, does not blow smoke so no negatives that I can see. Been over 12 months and 5-6000 km. Interesting though but really nothing can be done without retune. Thanks for the great advise all round . Happy for further discussion and thoughts Off shopping for the below over the coming months. I will get further advise and take it slow to ensure all correct. Bit of copy blatant copy from people but a idea anyway the way the car will head to progress Find tuner to assess currect set up, afr, retune for local conditions etc. Go shopping 1. Automotive boost referenced fuel regulator (rising rate, what ratio) 2. Wait until the T5 blows and get a supra box 4. 28 spline axle upgrade (where do you get these and what else is needed. My LSD is very tight and totalled rebuilt) 5. Aeromptive 340 intank pump or similar 6. 1000cc injectors , matched set 7. High flow fuel rail (assess) 8. CDI msd 6a ignition and misc components, coil etc. 9. Roller cam and chain, 10. Billet hydraulic turbo cam 11. Roller rockers with raised tappet cover 12. Ported alloy head, port matched exhaust and inlet 13. Tune and dyno (find tuner) 14. Maybe clutch Other Bigger radiator (with thermos fitted ) Upgrade alternator 90/10 front shocks (new rears already sorted) Remove front swaybar Rear sway bar large Start buying forged internals Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check the contacts on the fuse panel. If they look slightly corroded that can cause that too. If clean and very good connection likely a bigger issues. With heater/motors they can gradually get worse or high resistance joints causing this so it may not bee nought to blow the fuse. Check connections. Check with a multimeter the resistance of the heater Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

130 km/h was about 3200 rpm. Makes lots of torque very low. They did not have that overlay with speed/rpm/boost., Would be good though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry try again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have said it before but the car drives bloody great and I am very happy. Without the dyno I would have never even looked. You see something and you look at ways to improve, nothing more., Got some feedback from mike. 1. No info recorded what the cam or chain was. (As it chewed through dizzy gears until I got the steel dizzy gear likely aftermarket but I will check) 2. He Suggested roller cam and chain, billet hydraulic turbo cam and roller rockers as a upgrade. 3. When the diff was rebuilt Rear axles are standard (so some planning needs doing there if any more power is going to be increased for drag racing) 4. He Recommended a supra turbo 5 speed as he has had some good power early falcons high output cars with good results from the boxes. Very reliable and basic change. 6. Any change to the existing fuel pressure control will dramatically affect engine tune and power. Basically he said leave it unless other things change. 7. Swirl pot to be 4 lines to it and run efi suction filter between pot and pump 8. He Suggest only change the chain, rockers and cam. (I still need to tune with the cam change) He did not mention about ignition upgrades or injectors or what fuel regulator set up is. . (Either way When things change I will up injectors size, fuel regulator and ignition but no tuner so kinda pointless for now) Afr dyno sheet below. No boost available to be overlayed but advised ramping rate with positive boost from 900rpm with 7psi at 1800 rising with rpm up to 16psi at 4000 and hold 16 psi to 5000 rev limit. Haltec boost control. Nice info to know and got a good list of parts to buy http://s277.photobucket.com/user/HSVListy/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjtjv53aa.jpg.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow lots of great info. I will check the fuel line size but mike did increase them I know. The valve springs are brand new psi double so good spring. I can help much on the current fuel reg set up but by the invoice no extra regulator listed. No clue as to what the current set up is but will get Danny to go through it to check the pints you listed above. I have asked mike about afr and boost reference on the dyno runs today. See how he goes. Either way I can take it to the uni and throw it on their dyno. I am assuming new injectors means tuning which as you know big problem up here s I may not be able to do anything anyway. I have all the ideas and thoughts listed and will sit down with Danny and see where we go. Future will be built engine and likely fuel change. The car spools up very quick and very little lag so the bigger turbo seems to work here. My old falcon turbo 20 years ago with the T04 was bad. Nothing them wham. The one I have now delivers very similar to late model xr6t Cheers for the great info Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi. Yep got that. Just thinking lp from tank and hp from surge tank. All learning so yep thank you. Simple now too. I just read somewhere lift tank to be lower pressure than the main line pump but must of misread. no aftermarket fuel reg with gauge so must be stock. Soon will be upgraded for safety at the drags so I don't have to run 3/4 tank fuel and make sure good pressure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had not thought too much an the gearbox side. I like manual but for drag consistency and less stress on the driveline auto makes sence. Not keen though and manual will stay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great info. It is a intank 044. I will have to change or regulate the pump so I have a low and high side for the surge tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No fuel reg. all the fuel lines have been upgraded to larger as is the high flow pump. Exhaust is 3 inch with 4 inch after turbo and very good stainless large muffler. It has been designed for future power increase. I have got the below gear to go in over the coming month so I will get some data collected. I will do another dyno run after the reg gets put in and get the afr logged., I will call mike vine as he may well have tuned power out of it as he was worried about the t5 gearbox strength. He is likely right mind you. He did the car as a driver / streeter not outright power as the engine is still stock, although rebuilt.. Now I have some ideas I will do some chasing around. Thanks again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks heaps. Nice comparison. I will chat to the local mechanic and do some checks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No clue how and would not be something I would do myself. It was built in Brisbane and I'm in darwin and I just paid money as things were done on it. Time is not something i have a great deal of. I'm been the ls1 v8 Holden scene for 15 years with circuit racing so still learning the crossflow over the last 12 months. Sold the gts so Needed a change and always wanted to go back to turbo xe. I will table the ideas here and discuss them plus get to chasing info. Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stock heads bar double springs. It is impressive on spoil up. Couple of vids anyway. Other thoughts on improvement ideas let me know. You can hear the change above the 4k mark on short shift Normal shift Short shifting Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the great info. Good reading. Haltec is a e6x. Just to clarify the car drives bloody fantastic and pulls like a train. Under foot you don't really notice any real change in the higher rpm but by the dyno more improvements could be made. Thanks heaps for the time. Long day here too. Tired of looking at turbines. (The really big jet version that is ) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know for future the injectors need doing but for tuning reasons they were selected and ok for the current configuration. Most things were done to future proof so when the times comes saves double handling. Bottom end is stock but the ramping rate boost it is only higher boost for a shirt cycle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes upgraded coil. Bosch or something. It did not come up during the build as a issue. Just replaced. I see the ice brand everywhere but no ideas if that is a issue. I will chat to Danny next time the car is in there as I need to get thermo fans fitted. Might do a quick investigate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The valve springs are psi brand too. Cam is not known which is a shame. Certainly aftermarket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the set up. http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/3147-yellow-xe-turbo-sedan-crossflow-spac/ I will jump over and open a thread shorty in the turbo area . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool will do some reading and searches. Back on NA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the great info. I don't want to head the thread off track as mine is turbo but very interest on the ongoing of the crossflows. I had seriously NFI crossflows can be so complicated. Just amazes me the technology and work to get them right. My crossy makes 220rwkw at 3200 rpm (turbo) and silly torque and starts to drops down after 3800 even though boost is still going up. Hits 16psi at 4000rpm ramping rate. Still it it terrific to drive with such torque and the car was delivered exactly what I asked for without killing the stock engine... (Though rebuilt by previous owner) My interest is more future than present. I have lots of homework and reading to do to come up with a future plan but not this season. Happy with low 13s (for now) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm interested too. I want to make more power above 4000 so interested to see the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got the xe air con working but a few weeks later it blew the lp hose from tx valve to compressor. Are the hose available or do I get one made. Mine is a flex hose and not solid tube..I put a rebuilt compressor, full service with r12 replacement alternative gas and locked the vents to push air face only. Worked well until it leaked in a cloud of smoke. Any advise what's the best way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have one of these too. I chewed two dizzied in a month and changed to these and zero issues since. About 3000km and 30 off drag runs Do the job and timing is spot on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes any cam upgrade replace to a steel distributer drive from places like Aussie speed. Did the job on mine and zero issues since. Cheap at about $70 I went upgraded turbo and very budget unfriendly but I did over do the whole thing to future proof. Another small power increase is rid the clutch fan and replace with electric fans. May need to Upgrade to a modern type 80amp alternators which you can get like for like and not a bad price and may give a few extra hp with modern electrics

Also only a small difference but ceramic extractors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk