Trent250

https://holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/classic_holley/

Which one would be for me?

Thanks for the pics mate, I see the difference now...

Just messaged Aussie speed and it fits a square bore..

Cheers

No harder or easier than a mechanical one, it's 4 bolts, throttle linkage, fuel hose(s), choke wire or cable. The vacuum setup is all part of the carby and comes with it.

Ok sweet... Could anyone put up a link of a holley 600vac carb up that will bolt on?

I've been looking around and have noticed there are a few different designs..

Would be great..thanks..

I've got an Aussie speed 4brl manifold..

Or what carb would you recommend?

 

And what's the difference between spread bore and square bore? Which one will fit?

Going mechanical secondaries... got a mate that works at a petrol station huh?Is there a particular reason why you need one of them? Just wouldn't want you to get it and be bitterly disappointed trying to get it right without pouring fuel down it.Holley makes vac and mech carbies very different from each other for a good reason. Mech is for racing, vac is for street. The assumption with mechanical carbies is that you wont be cruising or idling much. Their emphasis is on absolute performance, and run big jets accordingly. Now here's the clincher.... You go and jet down because it's a fat pig and guess what? It falls on its face (goes lean) It's because they run small power valve channel restrictors, along with big jets. You can drill the PVCRs out and jet down but that's even more work. A mechanical carby can be made to work on the street on a (relatively) small engine like many have on here but there's the thing... Why not just get the right one?Vac sec carbies are jetted pretty well out of the box for cruising and have a bigger enrichment circuit (PVCR) for when you stomp it. Also the secondaries (if set up right) only open if (and as far as) they need to.Again, not knocking your suggestion if you know it will be what you want but you just want to be 100% on what to expect from a race carby vs a street one.

Sounds like I'll go vac then... Much harder to fit?

I just brought the scorpion roller rockers, msd 6al2 programable and coil to suit..

Next is a 600 mechanical holley..

Where can I get one from, they seem a bit hard to find as most are vac secondaries..

Thanks

Didnt really notice how far the dollar had dropped. Yeah had a look at summit and its $340 aussie dollars delivered to your door. Should be able to find a used set locally for less than that especially if the dollar keeps dropping the price will continue to go up

 

Edit: here you go, yes it's in WA but post should be that much and he wants $100 for the rockers and a spacer http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/byford/engine-engine-parts-transmission/250-crossflow-/1067033336

 

I've looked at them ones a while ago but he won't post...

I'll buy them scorpion ones I reckon ..

Start a build thread with pics of the car Trent and ideas and what you want...people can help better when there's a car to look @ on some things you don't notice.

Just did, take a look...

Someone will confirm but you will need rockers to suit cleveland not windsor. Yes 5/16 is what you want if you want bolt on. Yes 7/16 will require extra money spent on getting the head machined to suit larger stud size.

The link to the scorpion rockers I provided if a 6 cylinder engine so you only get as many as you need not the extras for a v8. Search this site for scorpion rockers as I posted an email that was sent to me by scorpion regarding fitment. If you buy the 6 cylinder scorpion from summit racing it should be on your door step for less than $300 aussie dollars. Then again you could find a set of used yella terra for the about the same price or pay double for a new set.

I went on summit racing and there about 290 for them scorpion ones but 60$ posted to Australia.. So thinking of buying the 6al2 programmable msd box and blaster 2 coil at the same time and postage is $80 for all of it..

So them scorpions will bolt straight on.. That's what I'm after...

Will these bolt on?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CRANE-ENERGISER-ROLLER-ROCKERS-FORD-WINDSOR-CR44746-16-/180640978561?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0f0a9681

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Racing-302-351-Windsor-Pedestal-Mount-Roller-Rockers-1-7-5-16-M-6564-A50-/281568108187?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item418ec45e9b

 

Just a few I found from a quick search..

I want to spend around the 400$$ mark..

The scorpions will bolt straight on but they are non adjustable - suitable for hydraulic cam application only.

 

The Crane ones look good but I'm not sure on the 'bolt on' claim as they look like 7/16 studs to me and they seem a little pricey.

 

If it were me I would be searching gumtree for a second hand set. They come up from time to time and they are not the sort of thing that wears out. They mainly get damaged if there is an engine failure. I picked up a set of street terra for $80 locally last year - they are out there - you just have to search.

 

If you are dead set keen on new ones then I would just buy a set from Yella Terra and support an Aussie company in the process. The decision is yours.

 

I don't need adjustable as sticking with hydraulic cam...

Can anyone put up a link of some cheap but good ones, non adjustable..

So what do I look for with the bolt size? If they are 7/16 do I need to get the head machined..

Thanks again.....

Could go 2nd hand but I'll have to find some..aha

The stud mount use a bigger (7/16th) 'stud' not the little bolt like the bolt on's.  Therefore you have to machine the rocker posts to suit the bigger stud mounting and then tap the thread out to suit the stud. 

 

It is seen as good insurance on some hypo engines but imho if you stay below .600" lift and use the correct valve springs - bolt on adjustable are fine.  Use shit valve springs with a big lift cam and give it a hard time and you will break the smaller bolt for sure.

 

I'm only using stud mounts on my roller engine because I bought a head that had them for next to nothing.  Only reason I'm using them - not because I need to with the roller, because the valve springs suit the lift of cam and don't harmonic.

 

So by now you should be getting my little rant - correct valve springs equals happy engine and bolt on compatible.

So would these bolt straight on? I'll be under .600" for sure

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400839949239?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Couple of links for you to check out

This set will fit a crossflow (12 only for 6 cylinder) and are 5/16 which are bolt on http://www.scorpioncheckout.com/category_s/206.htm

This is yella terra 7/16 stud mount and as Ando said will require machining of the head http://store.yellaterra.com.au/ford-v6-yella-terra-platinum-7-16-rockers-ratio-1-73-yt6345/

This link show yella terra range for crossflow  http://store.yellaterra.com.au/categories/roller-rocker-sets/ford/ford-6-inline/ford-inline-6-australian/ford-inline-6-crossflow-1976-1993.html?sort=priceasc

Those scorpion ones look good for the price... They bolt straight on?

 

Cheers everyone for the help.. It's pricless.. Thanks

Gd decision Trent.  There are some very good rockers out there and if you are going to stay under .600" lift you can even use cast ones.  I know plenty will disagree with me there but I have used stocko bolt on Yella terra cast roller rockers (street terra) on a speedway motor that lifted to .583" without an issue - probably because of the correct valve springs (ISKY).  This motor gets pinged from 4500-6500 time and time again.

 

Don't get me wrong I love my billet items as well - mainly because they look so good when you are doing your rocker checks - but really once the tappet cover goes on, who cares - as long as they work.

 

Crane are a good brand so if you have the coin and they are direct bolt on then go for it.  If they are stud mount you will have to get your head machined to suit.

 

 

Why would I need to get the head machined? For rocker cover clearance?

Start a build thread with pics of the car Trent and ideas and what you want...people can help better when there's a car to look @ on some things you don't notice.

Ok I'll start one soon...

I'm looking at roller rockers for my Crossy and I found a set of crane ones, but the ratio is 1.7:1..

I know most people run 1.7:3 ratio rollers...

Might be a dumb question but want to know what's the difference and will they work the same.. Cheers

Cheers for the help guys..

Well u have convinced me into getting the msd 6al2 programmable!

The 6al2 PROGRAMMABLE is unbeatable - FULL STOP.  The street fire is strictly a locked timing unit which is far from ideal - especially on a street car.

 

If you are going to spend the coin - spend it once - buy a 6al-2 programmable.

Sorry, what do you mean when u say locked timing only?

Is the 6al2 fully adjustable?

Just want to make the right decisions before I go ahead.. Thanks

I've been looking around at different ignition boxes and this is my questions..

im tossing up whether to get the 6al-2 or the street fire..

I know the 6al-2 has a lot more functions but I don't think I will use any of them..

What I'm going to do is fit it and get is professionally tuned and I assume they would set the ignition to where they reckon, and limiter and stuff like that..

So for my use would I gain any more power with the 6al2 box?

Is it worth that much more than the street fire for me?

Cheers, any help or opinions would be great..

I've been looking at the msd 6al-2 and there are two designs.. 1 of them is u can plug it into the computer and make your own curve and the other just has like 4 dial u turn..

Which one did u guys put in? And why? Cheers

It will leak - they all do.  look for excess breather can deposits or oil in the water.

 

ok well if you are only going to stay around 5000 - leave the dizzy in.  If you want to see what crank trigger is - have a look in the for sale section - glen's engine has it - think Slydog started the post. 

 

basically a crank trigger is a set of 3 magnets that pass by a trigger to give a better signal to the MSD as to the engine's position.  '

 

The problem with either dizzy (TFI or EST) at consistent high rpm is that spark scatter occurs due to the dizzy being driven off the cam shaft via the dizzy gear.  this creates issues at high rpm which leads to inaccurate timing.  With a crank trigger system the MSD gets its signal from the crank and therefore it is much more accurate at rpm because it is not influenced by the harmonics. 

 

It makes HP in those applications because of the more consistent timing.  Been proven more than once now.  For your application - probably overkill.

I had a look and couldn't find oil anywhere.. Must just be lucky..ahaha

Thanks for the info dude, yea sounds a bit overkill for what I'll use it for..

 

Would I notice any difference if I used different coils? Like the blaster 2 or the hvc2 coils?

 

If using a dizzy, use a TFI. Easiest way to run it is to remove the module on the side and replace it with an EST plug or connect directly to the prongs. Very easy. A new Bosch coil is fine or get one from MSD.

Any good carb over 570cfm. I would use a nice choke-less 600 DP.

Thanks for the suggestions so far I think I will go 600..

I'll get a TFI dizzy too.. Would swapping the plugs just make it easier to install?

Thanks

Nice engine by the sounds mate. The 6al2 will work great for you, and you could look at a blaster HVC2 coil part# 8253. That's the setup I will be using on my solid roller cam crossflow. Speaking of cam you didn't mention anything about the cam in your post but guessing it is a hydraulic as you havent changed to rollers yet. Will need some cam specs and intended use for the car to help with carb selection.

Cheers mate.. I don't know the specs of the cam sorry, all I know is it makes power from 2500 - 6500.. Yea it's a hydraulic cam..

Probably just a tough weekender street car.. Want to see how much I can get out of it..

 

 

crank trigger is the go if you want to rev it like that - it is a reasonably cheap conversion and makes a massive difference. 

 

The MSD universal crank trigger unit is the go.  just gets rid of all the problems associated with either dizzy (TFI or EST). 

 

Sounds like a solid combo.  I'll bet my left nut the copper head gasket leaks.  never seen one seal properly yet and really they are overkill with that compression ratio.  I have used standard style gaskets to 14:1 comp without an issue.

Can you explain what a crank trigger is? Never heard of one before.. I rarely rev it to 6500 maybe once a month, most I do when I drive it is around 5000...

Don't think it leaks, never had an issue with it leaking before...

Cheers guys..

Hi guys, I'm fairly new to this and this has probably been discussed several times..aha

Looking at getting an msd 6al2 for my Crossy. What do u guys think, good choice? Also what dizzy will go with that? Probably need a new coil as well yea?

Any other things I should be aware of..

Engine mods:

Is has a 250 crank that was balanced and polished and knife edged counterweights. A lot of time went into the bottom end. 200 rods were shot peeved and polished with bigger rod bolts. The rotating assembly was blueprinted and Balanced. The block was line bore honed, machined, crack tested, pressure tested, it has oversized pistons (I think 30 thou). Flat top custom pistons (11:1 comp) The block is also machined to zero deck. The head is ported and polished, has oversize valves, has double valve springs and Teflon stem seals. Also has hardened inserts and bronze valve guides

Double row timing chain. All new gaskets and a copper head gasket. TE distributor has been graphed to suit the cam and has a bronze dizzy gear to suit the camshaft also. The fuel pump on the car is also modified and has a stronger spring and diaphragm to maintain enough fuel pressure.

It's running a mustang 5 speed manual..

My plans for the next mods are msd ignition, TFI dizzy, 4brl manifold with 650dp, roller rockers, but before all that I need to swap my 2.77 diff for a 3:45 as it need it..aha

The motor revs to 6500 pretty easy..

Also what size carb would u guys recommend? 465, 600, 650.. Sort of want to go double pumper..

The cylinder head has no marking on the sides of it but it has hf-2 on top of the head... Haven't measured what size the valves are but they are brand new..

Yea I live near adelaide so it's a fair way...ahaha..

Also $3000 is pretty much in parts... My mechanic is going to do the labour free I hope..aha

Cheers

The parts I already have are a 4 barrel intake manifold and a cylinder head which hasnt been ran before and don't know mods on it.. but looks shallow chamber..

Pro250 Where u located?

I think I will go for a 465 carb now

I want to rev it max 5500 so would I need el crank and 200 rods?

Might go for taller diff.. would u notice much power difference?

Cheers everyone for your suggestions..