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Trent250

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Posts posted by Trent250

  2. Posted

    WOW 42mm ID and 50mm OD means 4mm wall, that's A LOT bonus is they should resist cracking a bit more.

    The marks on the bottom are interesting as they start just after the bend but extend all the way along the pipe to near the flange, and even though the flange looks like its had a touch or 2 you would think that if the pipe has hit then flange would be smashed but it isn't. On my extractors I had a hell of a time trying to seal the pipes where they are really close as you just can't get in there to weld. I would be looking at cutting in the straight section before the last bend and putting in angled pieces to lift the rear section up a bit. This CAN'T be done without the extractors being on the car to make sure it passes the gearbox crossmember fine.

    If you changed the transition between where the secondaries meet and the flange to join to the exhaust it would help a fair bit with performance, if you have a look around the internet at collectors and transitions you will get the idea. Will it make a difference yes but running what you have now will be fine until you want better.

    What collector would u recommend? Like a longer one?

  3. Posted

    50mm OD - 1.6mm wall(*2 for ID) = 46.8mm ID

    50mm OD - 1.8mm wall(*2 fir ID) = 46.4mm ID

     

    Can't imagine the wall thickness is much more than above so that is a VERY large primary pipe, although custom made may have used thin wall steam pipe. Defiantly high rpm biased as pacemaker "big bore" primaries are 41mm ID and are considered large off the shelf extractors. How heavy do the extractors feel/weigh? The ones I made which are standard pacemaker big bore primaries with 2 1/4 inch extended secondaries with 1.8mm wall and a lot of weld put in would weigh around 8-9kgs.

    Measured the opening where it bolts to the head, so ports, and they were 42mm..

  4. Posted

    It won't make a difference as you can only take it out of the secondaries. If they scrape there should be some damage on them, depending on where the damage is will dictate the easiest fix. Probably the biggest issue your going to have is finding stainless in the right size without having to buy long lengths. Measure the internal diameter with a set of verniers if you have a set or borrow a set if you can, ruler will do but needs to be a accurate one.

    When I made mine I stuffed up, where it comes down past the sump and over the steering arm I didn't drop the pipe down far enough which meant the exhaust was pointing down as it went past the gearbox crossmember. All I did was go to the straight section before the collector and put in an angled piece so that it picked the collector up higher.

    These are the scratches, none are deep..

    image.jpg1_zpsxnce49ru.jpg

  5. Posted

    Very high rpm primaries, which do not seem to match the rpm band of the secondaries.

    What are the extractors you are using already?

    These are the ones on my car atm...

    image.jpg1_zpseeieqn3g.jpg

  6. Posted

    Very high rpm primaries, which do not seem to match the rpm band of the secondaries.

    What are the extractors you are using already?

    I don't have a good pic of them so I'll take one tomorrow..

  7. Posted

    Ok well that may well explain a few things.

    All calculations are based on internal diameter-ID so will be interesting to see what exact is. Stainless has a higher heat conduction than mild steel so they may have used heavier wall pipe in the primaries to stop cracking due to heat cycles which stainless can do. Stainless weighs about the same as mild steel so if they feel heavy it may well be for the above reason.

    These are my extractors which are over 900mm long in the secondaries with 1.8mm wall mild steel and as mentioned before weigh at least 8kgs, so if yours are anywhere near that weight for standard length extractors they weigh a lot.

    20150428_214834_zpspq7lnptt.jpg

    Yea that makes sense...

    Yours looks killa, looks like a nice setup...

    Apparently they hang a bit low and scrape on a lowered car.. So would it affect anything if I cut them down low and take a bit out so the come up a bit higher?

  8. Posted

    50mm OD - 1.6mm wall(*2 for ID) = 46.8mm ID

    50mm OD - 1.8mm wall(*2 fir ID) = 46.4mm ID

     

    Can't imagine the wall thickness is much more than above so that is a VERY large primary pipe, although custom made may have used thin wall steam pipe. Defiantly high rpm biased as pacemaker "big bore" primaries are 41mm ID and are considered large off the shelf extractors. How heavy do the extractors feel/weigh? The ones I made which are standard pacemaker big bore primaries with 2 1/4 inch extended secondaries with 1.8mm wall and a lot of weld put in would weigh around 8-9kgs.

    Yea right, yea there pretty heavy and pretty long.. There stainless steel if I forgot to mention it...

  9. Posted

    50mm primaries? Really? That's big unless they are really thick. Secondaries are about right, primaries should be 42-44mm.

    I'll measure the inside and see how big they are... Where they bolt to the head...

    Remember I did measure out sides so will be a little smaller..

    So what do u guys reckon? They for high rpm or torque..

  11. Posted

    I better tell you they are crap and buy them cheaply then, haha.

    I am keen to see what the sizes are, and hopefully they match what you want. Sounds like a big engine in the way (6,500rpm is a lot!!!)

    Aha, my car has ceramic coated ones on it atm...

    But brought these cause they look pretty cool..aha

    Yea gets to 6500 pretty easy but keen on getting it dynod... That's why I'm asking now instead of after..aha

  12. Posted

    Best not to say someones thing won't work if all you have is conjecture (I am not try to be a jerk here Greg, just don't know how to word that more friendly, haha).

    Mainly the pipe size Trent, the length matters, but is far less important than correct diameters. The collectors are important as well so we really need to see the exhaust collector.

    Ok I'll measure them tomorrow and take some pics, thanks for the help so far..

    And if I don't use them they will be up for sale..

  13. Posted

    Based on who's theory? It is the most studied and proven arrangement for a 6. 6-3-1 are more questionable in this regard even though HP has been made with them.

    What size tube are they (diameter of primaries and secondaries)? That's the most important thing and as wagoon said tuned for one is not tuned for all.

    What are you planning on revving the car to?

    Can you add a photo of the exhaust collector? It is pretty importing seeing as you have a reaSonable sized exhaust.

    Just the size of the pipe? And I'll be reving it to around 6500

    image.jpg1_zps5ecjq5af.jpg

    What happened to that car? it was that tough looking black XF ute

    He's a local guy and its a nice clean looking ute...

  19. Posted

     

    is that the engine out of that red Cortina? it was fitted to a fairlane? is the lane yours or you just hot the engine?

    I brought it off that dude who ownes that cortina, and the engines are very similar.. I own the fairlane..

    The engine looks identical with the same rocker cover, but I have changed that now...

  21. Posted

    Trent 250 - time to start listening to the people on this forum that actually know what they are talking about like Rob and dare I say me.

     

    READ the thread "need help, missing high performance crossflow".  The author of that thread is no newbie wantabe and has been racing for a damn long time.  I spoke with him personally so I know his credentials.  He tried everything to make the XE style dizzy work - as most people - including me, have done.  Put simply - THEY ARE USELESS IN ANYTHING BUT A STANDARD APPLICATION.

     

    He went to TFI and guess what - problem solved.  Notice how he is no longer contributing to the thread - That is because he fixed the issue.  He is not a big forum person and only joined as he had tried everything to make the XE style dizzy work and in desperation he turned to this very forum and LISTENED and TOOK the advice of those in the know and look - No more problems.

     

    I know its hard knowing who to trust sometimes BUT mate you need to TRUST the people on here.  We are here to help and we HAVE some of the toughest x-flow in the country under our belts.

     

    It makes sence and thanks for explaining it...

    I think I have the est dizzy atm so do u guys reckon I should look for a TFI dizzy and remove the module and hook it up from there?

    Cheers

  22. Posted

    I've been talking to a local guy who races 250 crossflow and he said the TFI dizzy isn't worth the hassle as the module dies very quickly...

    So my question is, what's the difference between a TFI dizzy with the module removed so 3 wires and the dizzy with 2 wires coming out of it?

    There both electronic so is there any difference between the dizzy it's self?

    Cheers

  24. Posted

    Hi guys, this has probably been discussed before but I can't find much info on it..

    I have a TFI dizzy that I need to fit along with the msd 6al-2 programmable box..

    Has anyone done this before? Is so how u wired it up would be great...

    I'm going to be trying to do it in a few weeks so need to see what I have to do..

    Cheers..

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