XF347

Yeah the teflon seals would shrink down into the grooves of the shaft a bit more making it easier to reassemble.

When at a workshop and doing alot of these quite a few years ago, we compressed the seals much the same as you have Gerg and then put the whole shaft in the freezer for a few hours.

You wouldn't believe the difference it made in reassembly. Great work on the seal installation tool.

22 minutes ago, gerg said:

They tried buying in stroker kits and came to the conclusion that they're garbage, by their standards anyway. They sourced the parts locally instead.

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Correct, I was stating to chestnut they did release a stroker as he asked why ford never did.

3 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

why didnt ford do all this back in the day ? like offer  different crank n rod combos ?

Ford did offer a factory 347 stroker in the TS50.

This car had a drop tank, not sure if it was still fitted when he did the twin 3" exhaust though.

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/233-xd35i-ghia/

While I agree gerg, when I bought this kit I did a lot of reading and found it is very common to use tie rod ends like this on mustangs. The guys in the states have been using similar for a long time without issue. I've had them fitted now for a few years and all I can say is it is one of the better handling x series I've ever driven.

Helps eliminate bump steer with the drop stubs apparently. Sold as a kit from stub tech.

Few photos as I was fitting the hubs.

Thought I would add something different in here, I have 2 inch drop stubs and kings low springs. Although I dont have bump stop plates, you can see that the ball joint angle is still fine.

Fuckin... Yes!! That's awesome

Mate, just trying to order wheels at the moment , just got off the blower with the wheel shop and with 20x8.5s front and 20x9.5s rear he is recommending 235 35s fornt and 255s rear.

Just wondering if you thing you would fit a 245 on the front without rubbing as i said i had 19s with 245 35 no probs so thinking a 245 30 20  should fit.

And pretty sure you've got 9.5 on the rear yes?  what tyre are you are you running on those, i wanna try get a 275 30 in there.

Mate I've got 8.5's all round , looking at mine they fit easy on the back and I would say 9.5's would fit but offset would have to be spot on. I don't think 245/ 30's would fit on the front of my car, it might just rub in a few places. But the front is lower than you can go without drop stubs so unsure if they would fit with standard stub axles and SSL's.

The tyre is very slightly stretched but not much at all. No tread hangs out the edge of the quarter panel, it just fits under.

4.5 inch backspace, no rubbing anywhere on full lock. I have 2 inch drop stubs and super low springs. Wheels also fit with standard stub axles and SSL's. Tyres are 235/30R20's from memory.

20x 8.5's definately do fit on the front. Mine has them all round and tyre is almost under the guard with no rubbing and no mods to get them to fit. Although only running a 235 tyre on front. Unsure about the 10 on the rear though.

I believe he is just showing the spacers. If you look closer there is no shock there, so obviously the nuts were removed to get it out.

I have a Barry Grant, it's been a good pump although a bit noisier than the Holley pumps. I do like the Aeromotive stuff aswell, would be my pump of choice if I had to upgrade.

Have done this a few times before and from memory you need to earth something for it to idle? Been too long...

I used Dynamat and under felt on top, it cuts out alot of noise and ill definately use it again on any car I build.

Hey mate I had a brand new one, will check the shed when I get home to see if I still have it. If you cant find one anywhere else let me know, I wont need a spare anymore as Im goin to manual steering.

Although I'm sure someone has kept the console and fitted the shifter to it, I also just ditched the console and mounted it on the floor.

I use that exact saas classic on mine, it's a pretty good wheel and a good price.

Your right, but mine came with a shifter and the yoke as a deal.

Not 100% sure  but i believe so. I had a T5 in mine with a Dellow bellhousing. The TKO uses a top loader bolt pattern so I just had to redrill and tap my bellhousing with the correct bolt pattern. You also need a new tailshaft yoke as theyre are 31 spline output shaft. I didnt have to change tailshaft length and I already had a spare straight rear crossmember. Other than the retapping new holes in my bellhousing everything was complete bolt in.

Did the rear crossmember need any mods, XF347?

Na mate a direct bolt in using the standard straight rear cross member.