NZXD

Sounds like pretty good combo to me and basically my plan for my XF Ghia but with EFI and EL ecu...

I have a Quickfuel 450 d/p that I did have on my 302w but I couldn’t get it 100%, it would be pig rich or lean as on my AFR (best thing I’ve ever purchased) gauge. Changed all sort of bits and gave up.

Brought a new Quickfuel 650 d/p Brawler without choke horn and it was nearly perfect out of the box, changed jets down on front and rear by two numbers and it’s near perfect.
I thought a 650 would be too big for the little 302w.

The Quickfuel blow through 650s have a good rep.


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I’ve got all the bits to do a Crossflow turbo build for my XF Ghia, time and enthusiasm are lacking...

However my goal has never been about max dyno numbers, more around how it goes and feels.

My build is exactly what all the above are giving advice on, fresh bottom end, MLS head gasket, small cam and valve springs. ECU is an EL with XG harness with a J3 chip.

It will toast the tyres all day long, probably make 300 and something HP...not bothered really.


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I had a 351c with a 30 over bore built a long time ago that ran 2V CC heads, from memory the comp was pretty much bang on 11:1. Cam was around the 520-530 odd lift and 220-224 duration Crower.

I sold it off before it was fitted to the car, the engine builders had done a few to the same spec and they ran good...the person who bought it from me never complained.


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My post should have said they probably wouldn’t go well on a burnout pad.


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If you get a new radiator I’d go for the XF copper and brass, the wider one designed for air conditioning/tow pack.

I have one with my V8 XD and one in the XF Ghia, I live in Alice Springs where I can drive in 40 plus degrees without any issue.

The XF still has the belt fan and even with air conditioning on it will sit and idle all day long without an issue.

My just 2 cents.

They probably would go that great on a burnout pad but my cars will never see that anyway.


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What’s the condition of the water pump?


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I can’t offer any advice than what has been said, however I had an alloy radiator in my XD when I first got it and the temps were all over place and that was in NZ where air temps were in the high teens low twenties.

I got some advice from an old radiator guy and he said I needed a copper/brass original style, so I ended up with a recondition XF radiator that was for a tow pack or factory air conditioning (100mm wider than std XD)...

Never had an over heating issue at all, I don’t run a shroud and have a 16 single thermo fan. I drive the XD in 40 plus degree temps and it’s mint.


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That's what they might have cost 10 years ago, but apparently inflation has been near 100% in that time (sure, right)

Anyway.... CRS don't do a rack as far as I can see on their site. Shame, because they would do it much cheaper and better.

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I would like a kit like this, the RRS kits are very expensive. I made an enquiry about the manual rack and pinion steering and was shocked at the $2700 plus postage, maybe I was a little naive thinking it would be more around $1500.

I’d be interested in seeing this coilover kit used and what the thoughts are.


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If it's still a bit stiff going 2-3, that's similar to the T5 problem I have. Since going 4-3 isn't as bad, it could be a shift interlock issue. It's a bit hard to check this with the cover off as it relies on it being on to stay in the correct position (held by the slot). Maybe you could check this for burrs or wear and tear that could be causing it to baulk when moving across the gates.
 
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Went out for a real good drive to get some heat in the oil in the box, as yesterday it was a short drive.

Went through town, lots of stop start driving and 1-2 is mint, exactly how I want it.

2-3 is better than before, still a bit stiff but goes into gear with the grinding.

3-4 is 100% better, just slips in.

4-3 is way better and so on.

Still not like a 5 spd Japanese box but hell it never will be.

Thanks for all the advice and help with the single rail.

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I took the bolt out which was completely wound in tight, took the spring out to check. Actually moved the shifter around with spring out and still felt stiff.

Took for a drive after shimming the bolt out 1/8 inch, marginally better but 3rd is still a pig either way.

I think the box will have to come out as it’s got a slight weep at the front seal after the oil change.

The shifter doesn’t self centre but that’s probably an old worn box for ya.

Over all it is better but when it’s out I’ll take the top cover off to see what’s what.


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Yep confirmed. 9/16" spanner, remove bolt and there's a springy thing inside.

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Nah up on the passenger side of the main case, just behind the top bolt to the bellhousing, there's a bolt sticking out sideways. I believe this has the spring and plunger/ball behind it. I can go outside and look at the old shitter sitting on the floor in the garage if you like. 
Whatever you do, don't undo the one further back (the one on slight upward angle). That's the reverse idler pivot. If you drop that off inside the box, you'll be pulling the box out and fishing it out through the top.
 
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I can't remember exactly where it lives, possibly passenger side front of case (too long since playing with them)

I remember trying to de-slop my Cortina one and went a bit too tight with the shimming so it's easy to do.

How you would loosen it up... I suppose get a shorter or lower tension spring, take a smidge off the spring that's in there, or loosen the keeper bolt out till you get the right tension, note the gap under the bolt head and shim out with washers to suit.

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Single rails do have a bit of a whine to them. I like it. It's not unpleasant or intrusive, just a reassuring note to remind you of what gear you're in. The gears have less helical angle than a T5, which is what causes the noise. This makes the box stronger due to less end thrust.
 
Re: shifter tightness. Check the spring tension on the detent ball. Overly tight can cause too much required effort, especially in the back/forth direction.
 
 
 
 

Hahaha that’s mad chuck us some photos if you like! The dizzy gear you need for aftermarket cams in crossflow is the Crow DG2.

I’m running a Crow 14892 which is 214@0.05” and .510” lift on a 112 lobe

You in Sydney area by any chance ?


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Right so went out for a drive, let it all get up to running temps.

Initial differences are that the box makes a very slight whine, a lot easier to get into reverse.

Driving the up shifts are better and not so rough, downshifts are slightly better too.

Maybe over time the shifter will loosen up a bit, it’s quite stiff.

Over all for the $25 I spent to get oil it is a heap better to drive.


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Oil has been changed.

Roll on Friday arvo for a test drive.


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I picked up a couple of litres of Penrite SAE 30 oil. Hopefully this helps and I can report back good news.


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The original manual says SAE30. It's getting harder to find monograde oil so I'd go with either 15W40 or 20W50. A light, non-ep gear oil would suffice, say Syntrans 75W85. That is a GL4.

The problem with using the gear oil is twofold. Not only do the EP additives make the syncros too slippery, they actually eat the brass away as would acid. Using EP oil (API GL5) in anything with brass/bronze components is a no-no.

Stick with dino oil Penrite HPR30 (with zinc) and you'll be sweet. The zinc will protect the teeth and bearings. I wouldn't go any thinner than that or with synthetic engine oil because single rails like to have leaks and synthetic loves to find them.

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My gemini when i got it had gear oil in it, it's synchro on 2nd felt non existent.. replaced it with 25/50 engine oil(gemini service manual says SAE30.) and it's almost perfect. 

i would have used 25/50 valvoline engine oil, normal non synthetic, i did 80,000kms on it before the clutch went.. and i converted to auto
 

So SAE 30 weight is common 4 stroke engine oil for small engines. I actually have some for the lawn mower.


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i cant remember the weight of my oil but i think its lighter than 80/90,i will chex in morning.