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So SAE 30 weight is common 4 stroke engine oil for small engines. I actually have some for the lawn mower. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you mean like some 20/50 mineral oil? 15/40 type stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes it had the full kit put through it with new syncros and new shifter nut etc. The oil is currently 80/90 gear oil. What Penrite oil do you use? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's got 80/90 gear oil. When you say 30 weight, what specifically is that? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It’s a drain hole for the oil return from the turbo[emoji12] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just reading about how the camshaft are stamped TE. Basically the camshaft of 1992 had total lift of 0.260 x 1.6 for the rocker = 0.416 life. 1993 onwards you got 0.278 and 0.283 x 1.6 = 0.444 and 0.452. A good upgrade is the E303 or crane equivalent of 220@.50 and 0.498 lift. A factory GT40 style head will be on its limit with that cam, remember that a GT40 cast head is on its limits for a 302w. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have looked into these and I can’t see how a complete set with valves etc can be landed here for $1300 bucks, as a bare set is $500us, plus conversion and freight (would be a bit as they would be heavy). Most forums I have read say they are ok for a cast head but need work to flow as good as an AFR165. The main issue the header bolts are spaced wider so you couldn’t use an off the shelf header flange. Get some alloys for a little bit extra, even if they are the Proflow or TLG brand, they will work great as it’s not a 6500rpm all day motor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A decent set of headers to suit a windsor into X series is going to cost $700 plus anyway. The plug angle on the P heads is a pain but with the right spark plug angle boots you can get away with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actually you would need to get the head bolt holes enlarged on a AU GT40p head to suit the 1/2 351 head bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is coming along well. I personally wouldnt be deciding a cam until you have the heads sorted. The windsor heads are the biggest restriction, and the disappointing part is any cast iron windsor head is a restriction on a 302w so it’s worse on a 351, at least get an AU GT40p head or a set of cheaper alloys. Aim for torque rather than higher end HP/Revs. I’d probably use the E303 grind which I think is about 220@50 and .498 lift, crane cams and comp all make a similar grind. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah just slap a set of cheap alloys on it, you will likely have to upgrade the valve springs due to the roller cam so check that out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any head ideas yet? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you want to sell it on as a short block let me know![emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet, are you just going to give the bores a quick home? What’s the plans for heads, cam, intake? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t see how the roller 351 push rods are the same length as the 302 roller??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes that is exactly what it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A mate of mine built a up a 351c a few years ago and it was a slap together, just new rings n bearings... the bores were already at 30 thou so just a quick hone, the machine shop said the bored were out of round but should seal ok, just don’t expect to get 50000km out it it. Motor went well in all respects. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve seen a few vids where a built 302w with these heads go close to 600hp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Boss motor would be cool, but with all the good alloy heads out there it wouldn’t be worth it really, not on those cubes in my opinion. Kaase P38 Windsors heads...search them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s different? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Much love for a windsor. Not to hard to get 450-500hp from the 351w with heads and a cam. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, what are these rear wheels off? The off set looks wrong as they sit to far inward, plus needs more tyre in my opinion. No one here wants to see you waste money and end up annoyed with your end result. I’d be writing down your wants vs needs for the car, if I was 20 again I’d laugh at myself for saying that, but over the last 12 years of playing with my XD, I’ve changed direction so many times with things because I never really had an end goal with the finances I had. For performance and wanting to chop your mates, like what has been said above a standard auto 302c XD is going to get smoked easy by the average new car, I’m not taking the piss but I’d bet my left nut a Ford 1.0 ecoboost would own it. A stock good running XD 302c took about 9 or so seconds to get to 100kmh, a camshaft and a tune isn’t going to get it down to 6 seconds... If it was my car, I would pick a direction of either tidying the body up and putting some wheels on it and making it look mint OR spend money to make it sound and perform better. If you have a bit of this and a bit of that you may regret what you end up with. Maybe just do a complete service on it, plugs, leads, oils and filters and then use the car for a bit, get use to it and then see what you’d like to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice score F4TE is a roller 351 block. Actually hard to come by, they also split pretty easy just like the 5.0 block. Build a 393 with some alloy heads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with the boys, decent tuned carb goes along way to a nice driving and performing car. I still have to say the best bang for buck performance upgrade is diff gears for that stop start acceleration, and yeah the trade off is that you will rev higher on the open road. When I put the 3:45 XG diff in my XD back when it had a stock 302c and C4, it could keep up with a stock VT LS SS until about 80-90kmh. I would worry about a stall converter if the motor is stock. Camshaft, as the boys have said don’t go too big or it will be a pig, unless it’s all built to match. Plenty of us have done the E series/XG diff swaps and can help with advice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s the timing pointer to use, the others won’t fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk