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I should have added that a boosted crossy would easy handle the 650 blow through. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like pretty good combo to me and basically my plan for my XF Ghia but with EFI and EL ecu... I have a Quickfuel 450 d/p that I did have on my 302w but I couldn’t get it 100%, it would be pig rich or lean as on my AFR (best thing I’ve ever purchased) gauge. Changed all sort of bits and gave up. Brought a new Quickfuel 650 d/p Brawler without choke horn and it was nearly perfect out of the box, changed jets down on front and rear by two numbers and it’s near perfect. I thought a 650 would be too big for the little 302w. The Quickfuel blow through 650s have a good rep. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got all the bits to do a Crossflow turbo build for my XF Ghia, time and enthusiasm are lacking... However my goal has never been about max dyno numbers, more around how it goes and feels. My build is exactly what all the above are giving advice on, fresh bottom end, MLS head gasket, small cam and valve springs. ECU is an EL with XG harness with a J3 chip. It will toast the tyres all day long, probably make 300 and something HP...not bothered really. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a 351c with a 30 over bore built a long time ago that ran 2V CC heads, from memory the comp was pretty much bang on 11:1. Cam was around the 520-530 odd lift and 220-224 duration Crower. I sold it off before it was fitted to the car, the engine builders had done a few to the same spec and they ran good...the person who bought it from me never complained. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My post should have said they probably wouldn’t go well on a burnout pad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you get a new radiator I’d go for the XF copper and brass, the wider one designed for air conditioning/tow pack. I have one with my V8 XD and one in the XF Ghia, I live in Alice Springs where I can drive in 40 plus degrees without any issue. The XF still has the belt fan and even with air conditioning on it will sit and idle all day long without an issue. My just 2 cents. They probably would go that great on a burnout pad but my cars will never see that anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s the condition of the water pump? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t offer any advice than what has been said, however I had an alloy radiator in my XD when I first got it and the temps were all over place and that was in NZ where air temps were in the high teens low twenties. I got some advice from an old radiator guy and he said I needed a copper/brass original style, so I ended up with a recondition XF radiator that was for a tow pack or factory air conditioning (100mm wider than std XD)... Never had an over heating issue at all, I don’t run a shroud and have a 16 single thermo fan. I drive the XD in 40 plus degree temps and it’s mint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There isn’t much to the RRS steering kit to be honest, not sure where the expense comes from. Maybe CRS will do a kit one day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would like a kit like this, the RRS kits are very expensive. I made an enquiry about the manual rack and pinion steering and was shocked at the $2700 plus postage, maybe I was a little naive thinking it would be more around $1500. I’d be interested in seeing this coilover kit used and what the thoughts are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Evening all, I’ve had a single rail in my XD for some time and while it is eventually being replaced sometime in the future I am getting more frustrated with it every time I drive it, and as a result not wanting to drive it. Most issues I have read are people having to fish for a gear with it being sloppy. I have the opposite issue, mine is difficult to get into any gear and even worse on down changes, it’s like lots of resistance. It’s beyond agricultural. The box was rebuilt back in 2014 and has only travelled about 700km since. The clutch has been bled a number of times but it’s the same shift quality. I’m thinking it could be the type of gear oil I’m using??? Any advice is much appreciated. Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will look at taking the box out over the next few weeks to repair the leak at the front. I’ll have a good look inside and see what’s what. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went out for a real good drive to get some heat in the oil in the box, as yesterday it was a short drive. Went through town, lots of stop start driving and 1-2 is mint, exactly how I want it. 2-3 is better than before, still a bit stiff but goes into gear with the grinding. 3-4 is 100% better, just slips in. 4-3 is way better and so on. Still not like a 5 spd Japanese box but hell it never will be. Thanks for all the advice and help with the single rail. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I took the bolt out which was completely wound in tight, took the spring out to check. Actually moved the shifter around with spring out and still felt stiff. Took for a drive after shimming the bolt out 1/8 inch, marginally better but 3rd is still a pig either way. I think the box will have to come out as it’s got a slight weep at the front seal after the oil change. The shifter doesn’t self centre but that’s probably an old worn box for ya. Over all it is better but when it’s out I’ll take the top cover off to see what’s what. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found exactly what you are talking about, I think I’ll shim it with a few washers as you have advised, bit of trial and error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, ill go out and have a good look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. When you say loosen the keeper bolt...you mean the large shifter nut? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The slight whine is no issue, reminds me of my old cortina’s. It is the back and forth motion that is difficult. How would you go about adjusting the spring? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice. Is this on the stock XF ECU? Auto or manual? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right so went out for a drive, let it all get up to running temps. Initial differences are that the box makes a very slight whine, a lot easier to get into reverse. Driving the up shifts are better and not so rough, downshifts are slightly better too. Maybe over time the shifter will loosen up a bit, it’s quite stiff. Over all for the $25 I spent to get oil it is a heap better to drive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oil has been changed. Roll on Friday arvo for a test drive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I picked up a couple of litres of Penrite SAE 30 oil. Hopefully this helps and I can report back good news. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have some Penrite HPR 30 (20/60) oil as I use it in my Crossflow. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From everything I’ve been reading I need to drop the gear oil out and try engine oil. Sounds like it will help a lot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am open to all bits of advice. 20/50 mineral. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk