NZXD

So a bit of internet research on the American 5.0 mustang forums shows that with a 331 stroker, afr 185 heads, hyd roller cam around the 580 lift and 240@50 will get you into the 350rwhp territory in the factory block. Another idea is this: http://www.holley.com/types/Small%20Block%20Ford%20-%20174%20Series.asp The yanks have tested it and based on a 302, 170cc alloy heads (no further description), 264 cam (again no full description) and 750 carb plus 6.6psi made 490hp. Landed in NZ from Summit is $3600nz, plus taxes being 15%.

That would be a dream engine in my D.

6000 = danger zone?

I think I will need to keep the factory block as an after market one will suck half my budget, so that limits power, not keen on 347 due to rod angle at bottom of stroke, so 331 would be the most and to get over 500 HP with those cubes makes it pretty angry. I think 450 would be enough in a light xd.

I still have the au gt40p heads sitting in the shed, the first mod was the alloy edlebrock heads. This weighs less than a cast iron head xflow with all the alloy bits.

Hey mate, what were you told about the motor?

Thought so, I think the "racing " no name parts give it away.

My grandfather always said if you want your horse to run faster, you have to feed it more. So when I buy parts, I look at price and think how long is this going to last for what I want it to do. Companies like Procomp try to polish a turd, but end up just rolling it in glitter, end of the day its still shit! But guys time after time buy these cheap products, and when they break they complain..... Keep up the good work Aussiespeed.

That is the same company jamie247 is talking about in the 393 Cleveland thread. The thing I don't like is how the advert doesn't say what the brand of parts are, just "racing hydraulic lifters", could be procomp? Get my drift? In saying that a mate of mine purchased a chev 350 crate motor, thrashes the crap out of it, years later still going strong.

Hi guys, just got a new set of Hurrican headers for my windsor. They are coated with blue silvery paint that I assume will burn off quickly. Any suggestions on what I can coat/paint them with that does not burn off? Cheers

Yes get the 8.5inch with the 5inch back space, I learnt the hard way and got the 3.375 inch back space and they cant be used as the rim sticks out past the guard.

Ah yeah forgot to mention that, I have used an EA handbrake cable and used new brake lines. Depends if you intend on running later model disk brakes?

I put an XG XR6 diff and brakes into my XD, the only issue was the spring saddle locating pin hole on the XG diff is 36mm, and the std XD one was 32mm, so I had some blocks made to lower it and locate the diff properly. Went from 2.92 to 3.45.

I think you need to work out chamber volume first, if you take too much off it can affect the pushrod length. Might be easier to get smaller chambered head. I had this problem when ito went alloys on my windsor and I ended up zero decking the block.

Im a windsor fan, dont know why??? But most of the 393/408 stroker windsors around the 500 hundy all seem to run the airgap. Its only 1.25hp per cube, not a huge ask for these days.

The one I watch had better torque and peak HP, it was on a mild sbc though, around the 480hp

Hey mate, there are some good comparisons on YouTube with manifolds, one where an air gap with one inch spacer out performs a single plain on mild motor build.

Cheers guys, I will do this over the easter week end.