NZXD

What sort of power is this expected to make or estimated 1/4 times? I'm really interested in this thread, keep up the good work.

Clevo is 28oz, the flex plate or flywheel can only bolt on one way due to how the bolt holes go. Late model 50oz flywheels are 157 teeth, and you would require a manual starter motor. I am using the alt off my xd, just got the brackets to suit Windsor, plus a Gilmour set up which ment I had to replace water pump to a normal rotation one. No ac on this car, we only get up to mid 20s in the summer.

I'm using the standard sump which came with motor, no clearance issues.

I have an roller 302w from an au3 xr8 for my xd, but runs carb. any way, you use the Cleveland engine mounts and chassis mounts, the bell housing is 6 bolt same as clevo, if you have to remember the late model 302s have 50oz flex plate or flywheel. You can re use the clevo starter if running a c4 etc. The late 302 has a reverse rotation water pump, won't matter if using the original belt system. You can buy of the shelf headers to suit aswell. I don't run power steer so cant help there.

Aren't hyd rollers set and forget, that's the idea of the hydraulic set up?

Hey just after a piece of advice. Just had a new screen put in the XD and the glazier put the trims on, and said the sides needed a strip of foam as there is a 5mm gap. Has anyone ever replaced the foam or just left the slight gap?

It was $180nz but well worth it. So good work there mate.

Sweet, think I'll leave it for now and see how it goes. I don't ever remember seeing any foam tears ago when the screen came out. also the rate spares rear screen seal is top notch, put one in and its perfect.

Cheers man. Have you experienced any wind whistle noises at open road speeds?

I just had a new hoodlining done in my xd sedan, it is still a suspended one, but we used the seat material which is dark grey (same as ve commodore unfortunately) and it looks a shit load better than the original one.

Those heads really take off after 400 lift. My alloy Windsor heads are a tad better to 450, but that is where it ends for me.

You are have some bloody good skills there. Talking about business, I'm a joiner by trade and my old boss always went on about "time is money" and how much money is lost with people wanting freebes here and there etc. I now work somewhere else and are on a contracted salary, which is good when the economy slows but as a wealthy businessman once said to me "working for yourself means you can earn as much as you want". I may be wrong but with v8s, the hp "potential" is roughly twice the cfm rate isn't it?

In the xd the 6 / 302 shared the same box with the 351 having the taller 1st gear. I'm running a rebuilt single rail behind my tweaked 302 Windsor which will have more torque than the factory rated 351 in the xd . Single rails also came out behind the xe esp turbo, which had 500nm plus.

I don't think the standard t5 in the e series are any stronger at all, just has the benefit of the fifth gear.

The factory 4 speed manual fitted to xds right up to the 351 Cleveland.

Do you want a cable or hydraulic clutch set up? Single rails are easy to find and cheap, and have the same top gear ratio as your c4 and it will drop in and use the same cross member. Be cheaper to put a stall in the c4.

Batman=cool. The wheels will be sweet if you lower the wagon.

Thanks for the replies guys. That tuck is bitchin sly.

Hey guys, just after some advice on upgrading the rear wheel studs in my XD which runs an XG diff, I need longer studs as I have used 7mm slip on spacers to bring the wheels out slightly towards the guard. I have searched and found various lengths, but I'm not sure what the knurl size is or is there a factory ford stud that is longer and will fit? Cheers.

Awesome man! Love the draglites.

I'm running convo pros, which are 1/2 inch thick?

I drilled mine out, didn't take long.

So 5 inch blocks arrrrh fark that!

Did you end up dialing the cam in as per cam card or stick it in straight up (dot to dot)? If you are going to the trouble of removing waterpump etc to just retard 2 degrees, you may as well do it properly and degree it in, then you know that part is spot on! My old 302 clevo did the same after cam change, the dizzy was rooted wIth a worn dizzy gear.

Seen as I had a spare pair of leaf springs, I would try flipping the bottom leaf which is about 450mm in length, when I flipped it to the top there was a gap of about 100mm, started with a couple of g clamps, and got the gap down to about 40mm, but got the shits due to the tension, does this sound right?