Anthony Pllu

mine is the opposite wont run unless your on the throttle when its cold

Ok guys I have 2 diffs one from a XE one from a EF. both are 0578. my plan was to take the 3:45 gears from the ef and put into the XE. now running into issue's The XE diff tho it is a 0578 housing the gears were 0575. i put 0575 bearings onto the 3:45 pinion but cant get them to mesh correctly. i am now looking at puting 0578 bearings back onto the pinion and changing the race on the XE housing to suit the larger bearing. What i cant work out tho is even tho both housings are 0578 the area for the pinion race is different on each housing. the EF one is a few mm deeper than the XE. so thinking the 0578 race is not going to go in there. even tho the housing is 0578. I dont want to put the EF diff in as alot of other stuff to change. Also noticed that the bearings on the 0575 crown gear are much smaller than the ones on the 3:45. shall i put the smaller bearings on the 3:45? Im stuck. when i put it all together it seems fine. but asoon as i torque the caps for the crown gear down it all locks up. if i just even crack the bolts back half a turn it all frees up and seems fine. Iv checked the crown gear torqued down by itself and it was fine Any help please

FD is a XE LTD, has coil rear end

does the FMX yolk go onto those tail shafts?

yeah i have the bearing cups and have changed the race and bearing on the pinion but just wont mesh. i have looked at alot of other forums and post's and some people have put the XE-F brakes on the EF housing. thinking might be the way to go rather then spending more money on new rotors and pads. then doing the line adapter and the hand brake. then bleeding the system again. and i personally dont like the idea of stuffing around with brake fittings. ill put all the 3:45 stuff back into the EF housing. just waiting on new bearings as i have to put the 0578 bearings back on the pinion. I have new EF lower control arm bushes all fitted up ready to go. Only thing im wondering with that is will the Flange from the XE diff go onto the EF housing. i know it fits on the pinion i have already tried that. but looks like it will make the tailshaft about 3mm shorter. is that going to be a issue?

to add another option. can i use the EF housing in the FD but drill new holes in the caliper bracket so the calipers sit in the same position as they do on the X series diff housing? and yes i have EF lower control arm bushes

also is it possibly easier to buy some 3:45 gears for a 0575 carrier

also can you just run a push button start on a separate circuit.

when you try and start it does the relay on the starter motor get hot. Mine was doing it for a while found just dirty terminals on the starter

hey may i ask. i always thought the filter would go after the pump. same as it does in EFI cars. as the pump can push through a filter but cant really suck through one. clean fuel in the filter is also a good idea but cant see it working to well.

thoughts???

the one on mine is a air gap. the bolts that i had from the old manifold would need to go in about 1 more inch. so got new bolts

yeah was the same on mine. i bought some bolts from sprints. more than welcome to go out to my car take one off and see if it will work with yours

yeah im not to keen on it. if i wanted stupid huge spark id get a MSD Magnitio

i can see things going bang

hey guys. as some of you know my LTD has broken and i was just looking to order some parts. Ill more than likley just ebay most of it. after doing some thinking i might just borrow some money and get all the little bits that i need done to it so i can stop complaining in my build thread. Things on list so far Carpet, Engine Mounts, Dizzy, Coil-leads-plugs. Balancer. So was thinking as i could blow a shit ton of cash and go buy aeroflow, MSD, I.C.E etc etc but thought then ill only get 1 or two things done on my budget. So iv started this tread for people to put up Bang for Buck parts. IE things you have bought that have been fairly cheap but have performed really well. Be good for all of us to see what others are buying as sometimes the most expensive option is not normally the best BANG FOR BUCK. Any ideas. go for it.

yeah i dont buy no named brands from ebay

yeah just sent them a email. last time i bought parts there they were pretty good, mixed and matched stuff to get the best for my budget

anyone had any experiance with these. i would expect them to be nasty http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251238484230?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 but fkn cheap as hell. this the kit you got james http://www.iceignition.com/new-products/7640mv-7-amp-street-series looks the goods. was hoping to do the ignition for under 1k but all ones with the ignition box are all over 1k

might want to check your cables for the battery in the boot. ICE seem pretty anal about direct earth from battery to block 7 Amp 2 Step (7842MC) Ignition Box * Supplied finished - simply connect at both ends - no termination necessary. * Ensure distributor to module loom is routed separately from module to coil loom and high tension wires. Module to coil loom (supplied semi finished). Please ensure the following: * Orange wire to coil positive (run direct to ignition coil - do not splice with any other wires). * Green wire to coil negative (run direct to ignition coil - do not splice with any other wires). * Black wire to earth / ground (run direct to engine block - do not splice with any other wires). * Be sure to keep the earth / ground wire from the ICE modules as short as possible. Always run the earth / ground wire from the ignition module (and voltage booster if fitted), to somewhere on the engine block, same as the battery earth / ground cable as per the instructions below. This is the only way to guarantee proper earth / ground. Optional features: * White (single) wire : Apply 12 volts to activate low rpm limit ( usually armed by trans-brake switch or similar ). * Green (single) wire = Tach Output ( 12 volt square wave - normally high, then low for 1.1 m/s per spark ). * Red wires: If connected = distributor trigger mode; If disconnected = crank trigger mode. Power supply to coil positive - no booster or inc booster 2316 / 2216 - ideal: * Supply 12 volts switched (13.8 - 14.8 volts from alternator) to coil positive or booster (if fitted) via ignition switch. * If vehicle has ballast resistor or resistor wire, by-pass these and feed direct voltage to coil or red wire of booster. * Never leave original wire from the ignition switch connected to the coil positive if booster fitted (refer diagram). * Do not try to power anything but a single coil with the booster. * If wired correctly, two wires go to coil positive and one wire goes to coil negative. Earth / Ground: THE IMPORTANCE OF THIS STEP CANNOT BE OVER EMPHASIZED AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY ON THE IGNITION IF IT IS NOT FOLLOWED. * Battery negative cable MUST run direct to a bare metal bolt boss on the engine block (should also be attached to body) as a single cable. * If the battery is mounted in the front of the vehicle the cable must be a minimum of 12mm - 13mm in diameter including the shielding, and must consist of a fine strand copper core. * If the battery is mounted in the rear of the vehicle the cable must be a minimum of 14mm to 15mm in diameter including the shielding, and must consist of a fine strand copper core. * For street cars, if you currently have the battery earth / ground cable running from the battery negative to the chassis and chassis to the engine and are relying on the body / roll cage to make the connection for earth / ground, DO NOT assume that because your existing ignition works like this, that the ICE Ignition will also work. You will void your warranty and quite possibly have to buy replacement parts. * For race cars, if you currently have the battery earth / ground cable running from the battery negative to the roll cage and are relying on the roll cage and aluminum engine plates to make the connection for earth / ground, DO NOT assume that because your existing ignition works like this, that the ICE Ignition will also work. You will void your warranty and quite possibly have to buy replacement parts.

i was thinking of a plug and play system. but kinda like the idea of the ignition box. so can set rpm limit and other goodies. will have to wait and see how money is going to be. dont want to rock up at your place to fix the car and all i have is a ignition system and no mounts

do the 6AL boxes make a difference. their about 250 more to add to a kit

was thinking this bad boy http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MSD-READY-TO-RUN-IGNITION-KIT-FORD-302-351C-460-DISTRIBUTOR-COIL-LEADS-MSD-84747-/160889891674?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2575c8eb5a

OK so hoped in the FD the other day and got half way down the road and noticed my spedo had stoped working. Iv played around alot and cant get anywere with it. Not sure were im supposed to check the signal from. Tried different clusters etc with no luck. i have not touched anything around the gear box so no idea

The car is FD. But it had a 250efi before i put the 351 in. So all the loom is from a efi250. Im running a aftermarket vdo sender as was running a aftermarket guage. I wired the new vdo sender directly to the pin for oil on the dash. But did not change anything guage still sat at max.