Anthony Pllu

Might be worth a look. One of them im pretty sure i broke as i pulled it appart and played with it but the other one i never touched it just stoppes. Pm your address ill send them in the new year

only have the actual part the screws into the lock mechanism, not that part that sits on the trim. i take it thats the bit your after. they might be on the trims still. but im pretty sure they had perished

ill check in the shed, might have some from the other fd

some reason oil just goes over to max even when car is not running.

ok so was at my uncles on the weekend for early xmas and he has a XD sitting in the paddock and has been there for over 10 years. no windows pretty much falling appart. grabbed the cluster out of it as why not. and some how it works fine. i have a spedo. even tho the board is covered in corrosion and spedo is rusted and warped??? so i just put my facia on it and off i go. will look for a neat cluster soon dont know how 2 of mine have just stopped. will check over all the wiring. i checked the transducer at the box and its getting 12v not 8v? same on the cluster end.

not even sure were to look for one

so tested the transducer and not happy with the results. it was giving 0.018 then 0.009 then 0.006 and then nothing for almost a full rotation i was doing it as slow and steady as i could but never have 8 pings over a full rotation. will find a new one

thanks VDO, iv packed up for the night so ill get into it again tomorrow.

i poped the spedo thingy back in and plugged it in nice and tight just to see if that was the issue. but still no spedo so have taken it back out again to wait and see how to bench test it

god dam over sized photos

yeah the plugs themself are very dry and could crack if i squezed them. also while waiting for a reply i got under just to check something i have heard that this casting on the block might mean something

ok spedo gear is out. think i may already know the issue as i did not have to unplug it. just fell out of the socket. but might aswell test it before she goes back in here she is

yeah tried 2 clusters and 1 board. all of them have that werid voltage that goes from .3 to 12v when in gear on the brakes

so i should be able to just the mutli meter on the spedo thingy on the box and get 8ish volts with acc on? then follow the loom up check joins make sure the volt stays the same all the way to the cluster

so is the transducer the little thing on the back of the gearbox? 3 wires comming from it?

im just out of adelaide. ill have to jack the car up more to get to the back of the box and look. What do you make of the voltage moving when its going from N to D

pretty sure the Ltd's had a double din from factory. the ltd i had also had a kenwood double din and did not look like they changed much to fit it in there

hey guys. have 351c FMX. stock other than RPM Air gap intake and holley 650 and top breather air intake. i also have thermo fans with a Davis Craig thermo switch etc etc. When she sits on idle it the temp normally sits around the 3rd to 4 bar on the temp guage. XD/XE style. But when cruising down the highway at 110 the temp is at about 3/4 to hot with the thermos blassing and it wont cool down until i stop and idle for 5 mins or so. it sits at about 2500rpm at 110 was wondering if it could be timing and ported advance is advancing it to much when at cruise speeds casing it to heat up. Im not sure how the vac advance system works just find it weird how when at idle with no air it does not get hot but at 110 with almost no throttle it heats right up Any thoughts thanks

ok i will pop the housing off tomorrow and have a look

pretty sure i dont have a thermostat is that a issue. i dont have a heater

kit looks good, nice and simple

i have heard of the AU having faults with crank angle sensor not reading past a certain rpm and then cutting fuel. but yours is working find in N so being a manual there should be no difference in the ECU map between N and 1st so yeah. good luck

i would just unplug your ECU and put another one in. could be a fault with the ECU or the J3. also try putting the car on stands get in it put it in first and slowly get it to 2500rpm. get someone in the engine bay listening for anything. when its in the air and not under load it might uncover a issue.

i got a 60grit disc for my grinder made life alot easier when doing these repairs, just grind back until its all shiny again then use filler, try to use as less as possible and get it smooth to save time sanding. you have to hand sand when dry and i found spraying some wax and grease remover on the filler after sanding will show up anything you have missed on this pic you can on the right hand side i did not smooth enough from filler to the original paint so therefor i ended up with a pain run.