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Travis

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Posts posted by Travis


  1. You haven't tried the correct thermostat yet dude.

    I tried the one you said to, so unless you told me the wrong one to try yes I have


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  2. So I got back from the radiator shop and it’s not blocked at all, so after trying everything I can I’m going to have to pull the motor out and take it back to the engine builder, thanks everyone for your help,


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  3. So just to update everyone, I have just received the new dayco thermostat, so once I get the radiator back from being cut open and checked I will go put them back in, I guess my next question is will I need a different restrictor plate that is under the thermostat or is the standard one that is in it ok?


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  4. Fans MUST have a shroud, does yours have the whole radiator blocked off, with 2 big holes for the fans.?
     
     

    Yes it does have full shroud, I’m really hoping someone is blocking up the radiator


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  5.  
    Mate, that thermostat is totally wrong for a Cleveland V8.
     
    Looking at the Tridon specs - it does not have a bypass/block-off foot.
    Without the foot, it will make a Clevo run HOT.
     
    Yes, I'd also get the radiator opened up and sussed out internally - if it's a copper/brass tank sort.
    They prolly can't open up an Ally radiator very easily.
    BUT
    get the correct thermostat, and try that first.
     
    Tridon TT2023 or Dayco DT66A/333-180 Thermostats - should both have the Clevo foot.
    Post up a pic, when you get one.
     
    Edit -
    running no thermostat in a Clevo, will ALSO make it run hot, cause there is nothing to block the radiator bypass port.
     

    So I have just ordered the dayco dt66a and hopefully it comes on Thursday, I will try this thermostat and get the radiator opened and checked, but if none of this helps I feel like it has to be something in the engine,


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  6. Those Aussie Desert coolers can be a triple pass style, meaning each end tank has a baffle 1/3 and 2/3 the way along respectively to force the coolant down, up and down again, this gives the triple pass function.. If one of those baffles falls out, the triple flow becomes less than one pass at best, that's if a baffle hasn't blocked something important in there.

    I suppose one way of telling if a baffle hasn't gone is to check the temp at certain points on the radiator core. When the engine gets hot, splash a bit of water on various parts of the core and see if they steam up or not. Even better, get hold of a laser thermometer then you'll know instantly.

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    I have the radiator out of the car now so will take it to the shop and get them to cut it open and check it, even tho it’s only bored 20tho im wondering if I’m unlucky and have a block with the walls that are to thin


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  7. I am going to try a different radiator and see if that helps, when I ran the car with no thermostat it made no difference at all, could this lead to being more of an engine problem?


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  8. I’m not saying it’s happened but if the engine rebuilder rebuilt 2 different open chamber heads could that make a problem?


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  9. Look closer at the thermostat first.
     
    The bypass foot, must be the correct length to block that passage.
    Alot of the aftermarket stats are not correct.
     
    Show us a part no. of the thermostat you used.
     
    Was the radiator physically pulled apart and the cores rodded out?
    (ie, end tank un-soldered and removed?)

    No they just blew it out, I can ask them to cut it open and clean it,8908b469b9833b7d057aca0a85a36355.jpg


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  10. So the car won’t stay cool today, I think I have tried everything, I have an msd dizzy and it’s at 10 degrees advanced, I have the high flow thermostat and a different water pump, I had the radiator flushed out and have the Thermo fans with full shroud and I put an extra fan on the other side just to try and blow more air through, other then replacing the radiator which I think I will do, I don’t know what to do now,


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  11. Ok so I put a high flow thermostat in that red devil radiators told me to use, i took the car for a drive and tried to keep the car moving without to many traffic lights, after 26min the car was at 90 degrees, I left it running in the driveway for a few minutes and it didn’t go over 91, so it’s a big improvement, I will take it for a longer drive tomorrow and see if it keeps going up or not


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  12. Yes to all, maybe I need a third fan on the other side of the radiator pushing the air in,I’m hoping it just runs hot and will cool down once it’s run in a bit, if not I have no idea,


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  13. See my first comment.

    Haha I know, but I just can’t get past that the radiator was working perfectly 6weeks ago behind a 302, all I have done is changed to the 351


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  14. Ok so I put a thermometer that can like to my phone in the top radiator hose and took the car for a drive, while moving it sat between 92-95, so it was trying to keep cool, when just sitting in the driveway it sat at 97 and didn’t seem to go any higher, I only left it sitting for a few min tho, so I know at the temp gauge sender it will be hotter but it did show that the temp would go up and down, so it was trying to cool, I’m starting to wonder if it is the radiator even tho it’s only about a year old, what do you all think? I’m really lost for ideas at the moment


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  15. 14 might be OK at idle but will be too much at cruise/load (if running the stock Bosch dizzy and curve)

    I thought the head gasket thing only caused hot spots on particular cylinders, not overheating the entire engine. Might well be wrong about that one.

    How new is your balancer? The outer ring can slip over time and give you an incorrect timing mark.

    How about you just advance it to where the engine seems smoothest, has the highest idle, and highest vacuum reading? That way, you know it's not a retarded ignition causing the hot running. Then drop the idle speed and adjust mixture to suit. See if that makes a difference.

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    Is there a way to check if the gasket is on wrong without pulling the heads off?


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  16. Timing should be around 6-8 degrees ?

    Would being at 14 make it go up to 100 in 15min? Also could the head gaskit be on the wrong way and cause this?


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  17. I have put a thermostat in the opens at 71 and it got to 100 faster then before, timing is set at 14 at the moment, not sure what else to do


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  18. Couple of things you can check........
    Bottom rad hose collapsing when you rev.??
    Ignition timing??
    Was there a brass orifice plate under the Thermostat??
    Fans blowing the right way??
     
     
    You can swap out the Thermostat for a colder one. Clevos can run quite warm, depending on how thick the cylinder walls are, water pump condition, fan belt slipping etc, etc.
    If it's just rebuilt and tight, it will run warmer until it frees up a bit. The twin fans should be plenty.

    c1b47fe5a85b5c98405f78e609c97889.jpg is this the plate under the thermostat you are talking about?



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  19. So I have just put my new 351 in my car, it has been bored 20tho, I have the thermostat opening at 90, and the temp seems to sit around 100 degrees, is this normal? I have a big Aussie desert coolers radiator with 2fans, the 302 I had before this never went over 90degrees,

     

     

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