slydog

5 hours ago, Valvebouncer said:

 

I’m waiting for them to bring out a digital tyre lever gauge

It’s amazing what you can learn from the old blokes if you just shut your mouth and listen.
A mate of mine is mad for minis, the real ones. They only have 3 mains caps compared to newer 4 cylinders with 5 therefore they are susceptible to crankshaft whip and cracking. The old school trick is to have a bigger clearance thrust bearing on the bottom compared to the top. I guess they know, considering they spin them to 10,500 rpm and they stay together!

 

Craig Smith builds all his race engines this way. His engines have actually won Bathurst a few times so may know what he's on about. 

14 hours ago, deankdx said:

the good old.. I'll just re ring it.. rebuilt.. next minute $4000.. that's what mine ended up like

Is that a C2 Dean? Wow don't see em like that anymore LOL.

I just had to purchase a C1A (with real money too!!!) and these things are starting to get hard to find. But the out come will be a very happy xflow for me  

You need to measure the crank for size,buy bearings to suit then fit and measure then fit crank and measure.

Or you could measure crank and buy bearings to suit and just deal with it co I know 95% of people building engines would do this. I'm not one of em. Most don't check end float just pull the crank forward and back and thats it LOL.

Skyline and Pintara auto's had em. But TBH by the time you find some and buy buying new may well be a better option anyway as new cost is prob on par. You can search US sites and get US GM 9 bolt gear to suit Camaro.

And again...the Ross pistons used on the 200 rod are garbage. They will sink in the centre with any real hp timing heat or rpm.

Seen it many many times. If using Spool use the CP piston as its a very good slug.

P.S Digital 7 needs 12v plus before it will start as well.

You test the coil by a resistance test via multi-meter but...as I found out it can bench test just fine and still fail in use.

The Ohm rating for the test's is on the MSD page or join the forums and ask as I did.

For street use a alloy bodied coil is recommended as it suits long periods of use the poly unit is for short bursts only. Yes all this info is on the MSD site and the forums.

9 hours ago, ando76 said:

100%.  And we will just keep doing what we do.  When you do a head for a bloke and he puts it on and goes and sets a track lap record at an Aussie title, is the fastest car in qualifying,  highest point scorer after all the heats and qualifies on pole for an Aussie title against some of the biggest budgets and best cars in Australia - you must be doing something right.

Real results as you say. Oh and he was saying he had the wrong gear set in, but it still pulled through that. Imagine what it would do with the correct gear set.  Oh you don't have to. It went to the Qld title and won that feature by the length of the straight after starting in 13th. Another real result. 

I have no doubt that the Mr Darrin Morgan of Reheer and Morrison knows his stuff as I'm sure he is well paid to do that job and that job alone. Myself and Cam both do what we do as we are interested in the field and when time permits, we play. I'd love to be paid to do this stuff all day, as would cam, but the reality is the amount of people making a proper living from it is minimal.  

Theories abound and always will.

Same car won all the same races car using John White Racing power and as you said many time's that car wasn't legal Ando. Don't know if I would call that a achievement myself been as honest and non derogatory as I can here.

I don't see Darrin as condescending more like just showing telling everyone the biggest thing they miss. As his txt is aimed to help not slur or slag on anyones work (hence posting it here for people to read) just help. Can't control how people read or take written txt. Use it or don't,agree or don't argue or cry or don't.

In the end it's all just about the cars,the rest is meaningless to me and over. 

The "guy" is Darrin Morgan of Reheer and Morrison. So no didn't just learn it. I was once told he knew nothing. Based on his success and the teams I'd say I know why knows more and who is the successful one.     

Yes you can use it as a base and a tool and even he still doe's derrrrrrr but alot are missing the point of values,how to use it and what to look for.That part seemed obvious to me and some could use the info or not LOL 

Everyone can take it how you want but I'm yet to find a person who has used his work/seminars or tips go backwards.Real results,Just saying.

I doubt it TBH but with the advent of the unleaded fuel and EFI maybe that had something to do with the change.

Every extractor gasket set I get/use is 2 piece and front 3 and rear 3 are opposite.

Take the pipes off and line the gasket up and take a photo Front 3 face backward's or towards the rear rear 3 face forwards or towards front of car...from memory.

As stated before but I'll post it so all can read anyway.Shows why inlet to exhuast percentages is pointless and a waste of time and how chamber recovery (Matt) is important.     

COMBUSTION CHAMBER DESIGN

Here is a little known fact: the chamber is part of the intake port. The chamber walls are an extension of the intake port design and effect how it flows dynamically in the running engine. As the intake valve opens, pressure recovery takes place. To put it simply, this means that the air exiting the valve is being slowed down at the correct rate. The flow bench will flat out lie to you in this case, because a poorly designed chamber can flow more air than a proper one! People forget that the intake pressures we deal with on a flow bench are 5.5 times less than what you’re dealing with in the running engine. The dynamics of the running engine cannot be fully simulated on the flow bench. This is one of those instances.

EXHAUST PORT DESIGN

I have bad news. You can not design an exhaust port on a flow bench the way you do an intake port. If you’re designing exhaust ports to flow the most air possible, you’re destroying the engines ability to blow the cylinder down and exhaust properly. If you design an exhaust port to flow the most air possible on the flow bench, the power will be lower, fuel signal will decrease, and the engines acceleration will suffer. Professionals understand that designing an exhaust port on the flow bench has nothing to do with how much it flows, but everything to do with how it flows and at what air speed. The exact size, shape, and air speed of the port in conjunction with how smooth it flows, are the primary points to consider. Personally, I care very little about how much the exhaust port flows. It’s at the very bottom of my list of importance. I don’t try and make the exhaust port flow as much as possible, because I have been down that path hundreds of times and it’s a dead end street! The pressures the exhaust port has to deal with in the running engine are hundreds of times greater than the flow bench could possibly simulate. Ask yourself this: why would you design a port using 1 PSI test pressure at 70°F, when it’s actually flowing at 500PSI+ and 1300°F?

Just now, dex said:

How bout smooth pasteing the manifolds ,? 

You still need to port em...Some people use epoxies to seal up,remake or build up areas looking for gains. Simply putting goo in there and smoothing it will not improve anything.

Most leave a textured finish to the cyl heads and manifolds to help attomisation.     

On 10/15/2017 at 8:49 PM, CHESTNUTXE said:

for us that are interested in these results but dont no what they mean can someone explain how it reads like the head flows 380hp with so much lift ? is that estimated cam lift ?

Thats just a good starting point of a possible power figure and not to be taken as gospel per say.

So back to getting...Brentons head flowed as good as 440hp yet the engine made 380plus. My head flows only 260cfm or 390hp but has run 11.5 and 120.6 mph. So weight shifted it shows 417 @ the crank on ET and 460 on MPH (by Wallace racing site which use's the moroso slide rule) to move 1497kg with driver.

My car gained hp on the dyno but showed ZERO ET improvement last time around. This time the only dyno has been the track and tuning has been done with AFR's plugs fuel and laps.  

So yes it's a good guide but also shows dyno's and flow benches are just tools and to be taken with a grain of salt. Track is the only place where the truth shows,good or bad. 

On 10/15/2017 at 10:31 PM, CHESTNUTXE said:

good question i have read a lot of crossy builds where the mildly worked head has plenty of caparbility.

 Marusic's 293cfm cyl head shows 439 theoretical hp but made 380 on a engine dyno. Little 2 barrel dirt slinger stuff chokes em up. 

https://imgur.com/a/DKTKe

https://imgur.com/a/i0yV4

Have say I agree with Sean fully on this. To do this on a small csa means leaving the spark plug out. Years of development is actually just making the holes the size they need to be which is very far from stock or small or ground breaking news.

 Not unexpected as your trying to sell your self and I understand that but please just call it what it is...a cyl head with the right sized holes...big.

I wish you and whoever involved well in the project but please be prepared to be questioned and provide real answers if you want to showcase work and remember its all been done by people before. Holding secrets on something no one here will copy anyway is frivolous.

Goodluck Rob

Deff 2" open space makes hp. Seen it so many times. 

Carby faces primaries to shock tower secondaries to engine and staggered jetting for consistency in response.

Harmonics flog em out at RPM pretty well.

Limits,plenty of cheap valve spring xflows with turbos hanging off the side (still slower then good NAT ASP 1's BTW) that you could ask maybe ? Most NAT ASP guys build em properly cos xflows break all the same shit in the same manner till you do all the have too's on em LOL. 

Other benefits are easier to assemble and disassemble. Heck I main studs,head studs,pan studs,manifold studs,carb studs,exhaust studs and if I could I'd run block studs for the gear box but you don't have enough room to mount it all while in the car.Stud's are da bom to work with.  

Performance Wholesale do the head studs in a kit. Maybe even the mains too but the main studs are 351 windsor size from memory? Happy to be wrong but bolt spec would be easy enough to sort and convert to stud.

Mine are 9.5 long 3/8th 120th wall Trend units.

Find more stock ones. No don't know don't use.

Unless it's got real springs in it stock pushrods are fine.