slydog

They spin in the bores. If they do not spin you wipe cam lobes.

8mm 1/4 drive on a battery drill fits in there with manifold on.Done it heaps.

Crank snout stuff is the same. Offset belt size is the issue later engines use serpentine belts.

FYI I use a SBC ATI damper on my xflow. 

Mine revs to 8200 yet drives around at 2000 around town very easy? Sits on 3150 for 100kph thru a 5700 convertor

But do relate the above to performance engines. Just it has solid info that is helpful for use on a build.

As said you may have to click on the link once or twice to read in postimg to get full screen.

But its good stuff and well worth it. 

Engine tech tips and some common sense stuff by Colin Lloyd of Headsense...

May need to click to read

A traditional filter is to tall but a flow thru filter top is the go.

9" K@N or Aeroflow filter top and base sealed with pinch weld fits under bonnet with a 2" spacer.

You can buy boost referenced metering blocks for carbs. 

No it isn't. Its a general gauge of 6 pipes together. Each cyl can run 4points difference. Think about that.

Heat signature on the earth strap,colour and condition on top of the body before the threads.Colouring on the porcelin. But reading em has to be done with new plugs and directly after a WOT pull with no idle time.

I helped him out with the dizzy and other bits and pieces and tbh it punches above its weight now.

Talking about blown crossy's. Ryan Ohara aka Taz Tuned has had great success with his 4/71 blown cross flow running low 11's now. 11.1 119mph in his gasser gig.

Still the same basic engine combo,some match porting and switch to a TFI dizzy over electronic but reading plugs and adding timing made it drop nearly a second.Yes went from 12.0-11.9 type deal to a 11.1 by not taking out soo much timing.

Engines need timing to be efficient and the results are happier engines and faster times.Once plugs identified tune timing was added and BAM its a new car.

Internet scare tactics and only this person knows days are over. There just a engine that wants what they want.Give it to em

Just get a e series shaft.

E series sedan fit X series sedan

E series wagons and utes fit x series wagons utes.

I have a ED diff in the ute with a XH steel ute tail shaft.

Flex plate has a different tooth count and convertor mounting holes due to using a BTR gearbox vs a BW or C4.

You can use the bolts but the flex is no good to you.

Imperial or big is 7/16th unf from memory

M10x1.25

That is clevo gear as discribed...

Needs clearanced block,BBF lifters,BBC pushrods,custom guide plates and BBC mark 5 screw in studs with clevo,bbf or even BBC rockers.

Hyd lifters are heavier and need more spring to control which means single groove valves and 10degree locks and retainers on machined pads as no one does that hardware in a xflow spring size.

And again no one does hyd roller cams for xflows. Only solid roller profiles thus far and in a dying engine tbh

No one does hyd roller for xflows.

AB100 International is same body but lights on top of each other from memory.

So to do a set of webbers correctly will cost over $3000. Doesn't include fuel pump regs and stuff. Plus you need a engine worthy of em.

Blower requires the same engine under it if not more and a properlly ported cyl head as a start.

Big ignition is needed like a coil per plug/cam sync type deal. A msd and stuff can work but also kill coils like hookers do condoms.

If you can't do the fab work you need to find someone left field to help you.

Ryan AKA Tas is a Wagga local too and will help were he can.

And yes dex I run a M1SC-b Procharger on my xflow making 14PSI. It power skids in top gear at 80-100kph. But again there a $2000 blower 2nd hand minimum and then you need to sort pullies brackets and shit.I used chev stuff as it fits xflows and a 8 rib serpentine drive. Was easy for me but its not for everyone.