slydog

Same as Sigma box...and yes found on 200 cube units.

I can link you too a couple guys who build em who should be able to talk ya thru it

Are you on FB bro ?

Diecrest...

A extreme top and base no sides seems to be the way alot of people go.

Looks sweet Ando...

LOL well said Ando. I have never ever had a Aeroflow fitting break flog out screw up bar 1 I fucked myself. Good track record for me but I'm sure there's people who don't like Aeroflow.

I have 175's rear and 350's front in mine and TBH prob needs 150's in the rear but on the hwy I just wind in compression and rebound and the car handles awesome. Well we sat it on the limiter in top gear and it never felt bad or unstable just squatted down and did it's thing.

No I didn't bro...please explain

Front and rear double adjustables Q...some crew chief you are. And again the Viking units are top notch but be looking @ $ 1600-$1800 front and rear.Viking is the same base company that started QA1 BTW.

Mine does 3150 for 100kph with 4.11s and 5000 stall.

Why would yours ears ring with 3.7s?

3.7's and let it sing. It will use as much fuel as you let it use.So drive sensibly it will be fine drive your Luke Fink and it will use heaps.

They can rev and do it easy and still be useable but people seem scared to go for it. Here's 7700RPM to top gear skid and a 4500 transbrake launch after the car drove well over 1600km's with zero mechanical issues bar a door handle.

Yes seeing as my HF1 in the shed came off a XD sedan...see where this is going now? HF stands for Honda casting,1 is the model number and as they start @ number one (1) we can assume you have 2 early heads. My current cyl head is a HF4 from memory and it's coded as a C1A from EFI XE. Code for the head is in between inlets 1-2. Your should be blank if it's a HF1 but the head that come on late XF's were a D cast unit and of harder alloy then early units as they still blew head gaskets.

Valves Performance Wholesale HF1 and HF2 is just early XD head. No real difference between TBH. Clutch I'm not sure of having not done 1 in ages but I'd assume there a 5/16th UNF.Happy to be wrong though but someone like Sunbury brakes would know..

What sort are they? My paceys dead set took like 2 mins to get in and out. Obviously I run studs to make the job a seventy faster but a easy enough job anyone can do really. Just be open minded and confident of learning a new skill and you will carve it up bro.

BA seat into early Xf needed spacers but a XG maybe fine as there a later floor pan too. My Xf take 3 seat sets front mount pins and bench bucket type shit.

I would contact McDonald Bros Racing in Melbourne. http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/

As usual your workmanship is nothing but class

What ever you set it @ you can and I still do set timing on cam run in anyway. Too retarded and it will hurt the engine and run very hot to advanced and it can cause detonation issues. Prime the oil pump and start it with rocker cover off and with a paint texta dot the backs of the pushrods so you can see if there spinning and if so slip the cover back on and do the rest of your check's and cam run in. If you don't check pushrods are turning you can wipe a lobe all but straight away.

Crazy fast car though and very well set up.

That Torry is NOT a street car in any way.It is a true light weight racer and well under 1tonne.You would need a very light weight car to compete with it. Impressive though

202 meth custom manifold su's

Liberty clutchless 5 speed. Meth fed 3 SU's on custom manifold lots of comp in a SUPER light race car,not street car.