slydog

For those who need to know...I deleted David's usual trolling comment to my post and will continue to do so until he learns to be a productive member of the forums. Trolling anyone will and always has been dealt with the same way. He can keep posting but if it's personal dig or non productive in any way it will be gone.

Not special just BBF...block needs clearanceing with a die grinder around 2 and 5 lifters.Takes around 10mins. The result is...a bad ass engine that idles like a baby,goe's like a mo fo and requires zero run in period and will out power a flat tappet.

A mechanical flt tappet requires...rocker cover just sitting on the engine with paint dots on the pushrods to see if there spinning,engine oil pump primed with oil coming out the pushrods,I actually pre-heat the oil even,outer valve springs only,no inners or dampers to be used at this time,use a quality run in oil like Joe Gibbs which has heaps of zinc and shit in it,have a mate with you on stand by,make sure there's petrol in the carb and spark from the ignition,timing light in hand and spanner to set dizzy as soon as it starts to get timing on point,I also have a large water jug or better yet the garden hose there and running to help cool of rad or top up if needed and in case of well fire. Extinguisher on hand is good too. Start the engine get it up to RPM check timing,set timing,check all pushrods are turning and oil is coming out the pushrods and there's no fuel/oil leaks.Small water leaks and stuff are not a problem here.Once that all checks out bolt rocker cover down and do your rpm changes for 20mins. Soon as it's done check and gap valve lash if needed,fix what ever is loose or wrong and check oil condition? If OK take it for a drive and dont take rpm over 3000rpm. Drive it like this for about a week then give it a fresh oil change and fit the inner springs aswell.At this point you can finally start it and via your paint dots confirm your pushrods are still turning.If all good and lash is still good give it say a 500kms or till the oil changes colour and give it another oil change then it's ready for you to be a lazy non caring car owner again. And don't be scared to put some spring on em.I know you will be told too much spring is bad but so is too little and often alot of harmonic issues and broken springs come from too soft springs.PSI springs have lots of good reading and Jason Murphy did a seminar with them and was surprised how much spring they told people to use and the difference it made ti engines. Thats how I ran if flat tappets.Expensive timley and a pain but it's what you have to do with them if you want em to last.

Solid roller is lean in the window hit the key. Then load it on the trailer and go race it lol. Well thats what I did anyway

No you won't. Your set in the low comp now,it's in your words. Fluted lifters...ummmmm I don't know but suggest there the same as EDM with a hole on the face to lubricate the camshaft and lifter. What I did find is that it's very very very critical to get run in procedure correct or you will wreak the cam shaft on start up. Long drawn out process that not many do correctly. Chamber is rather open in mine hence the lack of outright flow but the head has been decked and has chambers that are resistant to hot spots and detonation. Yes regardless of what the combo is they need cyl heads to work.This head is not ideal but works because Ricky Naughton of LHT Race Engines did a killer job with what he had to work with and it has shown the numbers.Can't recommend his work enough TBH.

4:11's 5000 convertor 3x50mm webbers over 1600kg's and still got 11mpg on Drag Challenge. Yeah 4:11's are too much.

11.7 on 98 is fine with that cam. I run 13- 1 on 98 in mine and it's fine. I know many cry about it and say it's not possible but they also havn't done it so wouldn't know. I'd go flat tops 11.7 and that cam if it's still possible but more critical is that they dial the camshaft in because it "will be out". Tighe are hope less with this and if it is just installed dot to dot valves and pistons can make out at worst or terrible running no power @ best. Hate to be negative but dialling the camshaft in is "that" important. Having to use there cams as a base to be ground by Phill Duggan of Surecam for a suitable profile but pin placement is done @ Tighe before hand and always wrong.

The chamber isn't able to recover from charge opposite the inlet valve is the issue. By putting material back in there Ricky found a 11cfm gain, All the sudden it's a 272cfm cyl head,which is starting to get serious. Plus next time around there will be a gain in port cross sectional area and get more aggressive in the short turn as stated before. Yes a 1.92 inlet valve will help for sure. You need more CFM cos your staying 4 barrel. If you were ITB or Webers you could be down a little bit but as mine showed the suggested 226cfm (flow testing showed 219 though???) just isn't enough. I had perfect 12.6 AFR's (any higher or lower it lost hp dyno proven) and convertor and gearing. But TBH you still need a whole package not just a strong engine and not enough ignition or or fuel system and stuff. Plus a stick car will not be as fast as a auto on a strip unless it's a liberty or such. Not saying it's a shit head cos it's not but Wazzy went to the other head for a reason...cos it flowed more. If we all ran around with 2 barrel carbs low cfm numbers would be fine and give what you want but 4 barrels with decent cams and such need more.

230 isn't enough imo. Need to get as much inlet in there as possible. Exhaust takes care of its self. To explain this a Barra head stock out flows ported xflow heads and LS engines have shit heads that outflow some good heads and the 6ltr heads flow 300cfm on stock engines. Yet both drive and work fine on stock engines. So having as much cyl head as possible is paramount. My car is heavy (1497kg with driver street trim) but even with the car gutted (tail gate off,no exhaust,drivers seat only,no left head light or blinker,no tins in the tray,10ltrs of fuel) it only went 12.0 most passes. This time dropped pipes so I could hear it but otherwise as street driven. Yes I drove it tuned on VP but that was a main and idle jet change 1 step up on both. All down to inlet flow. Once its tuned and raced with petrol jetting and 98 and it goes mid 11 Ill pull weight out of it. Then reset the convertor to where it was (5500) and it will drop more ET again.But can't do it without CFM flow,hence the chase for more. Drag racing isn't a easy game but the basics will always be the same.

Next cam will have around 750-780 lift with 270ish duration to suit the combo. Comp was actually already at 12.6 which was surprising. So only lifted .4. Next meeting will see the car tuned on petrol to compare fuels. Next mod after would be nozzles in front of the throttle blades and new cyl head.

First it was flowed no manifold for a baseline then it flowed with manifold on after mods. Yes not massive numbers but proof is in the results. 120.6 mph and a 11.5 ET. Any engine no matter what it is wants good cyl head and percentages and theories mean jack on a straight line engine. This car is actually better to drive now too which most said it would suffer but as the norm with this car it's the opposite. Valve sizes stayed the same (1.92 inlet and a 1.56 exhaust) all that happened was the ports and CSA was made bigger and followed manifold angles into cyl head. So where doe's this leave SLY250? Not finished as I'm sending another cyl head down to be ported and set up for the current combo. My guy did find 11cfm thru clay in the chamber testing so we have room to go forward there along with getting more aggressive in the ports around the short turn. Issue is there's water there as Jase Stoodley can vouch for,but again it's HP waiting to be tapped into. Props go to Ricky Naughton of LHT Race Engines for the prep and port work.

I did get asked why mine picked up so much ET and MPH @ AFF drags a fair few time's and this is why...the cly head.

Mine is on the x pipe so I get every cyl go past it. Yes It is on all the time. I pre heat mine (it's in the instructions and only means holding the key to red till it reads) before a cold start. If it's been running that day I just hit the key. Issues have been it doesn't like overly rich mixtures or leaded fuels.So I run 2 sensors on the car and just unscrew and fit the one thats working if I have issues.But I have had to do this twice. Once on the dyno cos we fitting the dyno op's sensor to my exhaust and the 2nd time when I fitted a new one to the car. If you do clog it just leave it hanging on a wall in fresh air and try it again in a moth or so time and usually they will work again. Stop start on off throttle with very rich mixtures are harder to burn off but WOT stuff will have lots of heated gases going past is alot eaiser to read obviously. So if mine was dodgy by 5 years Id know by now.

Locally eBay I think. Was just over $200 delivered.

This is what I use and have done so for around 5 years now. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php

Mine in SLY250

LOL...start reading.

Ferrera or Pep Pro.That size is a Windsor size so aslong as length matches there will be millions of em out there to get.

There is absolutely zero reason to use a electronic dizzy on a xflow. I know people will say they need advance and I can say it's bull shit from experience. My ute has been a L O N G journey and was far far far from hot when I started out and doing the TFI swap made it such a nicer thing to drive it was like day and night. Locked on 30 degree's it starts easier uses less fuel and goe's better even on a engine with a stock cam and just bolt on's. TFI to the front.

My god who welded that ? It's the best welding I've ever seen !

First thing...if you have ball's ? Build a man's engine...if not,put a turbo on it. Just playing. Exciting news bro,not just a stocko work ute all the sudden and something not seen all that often. Good luck cuzzy,I'll be subscribing.

Using hyd fitting every day @ work I can attest to internal diameters been different but only to suit hose size or use based on pressure. You can get elbow or 45's that are formed to retain a full bore size also.But in saying that you get say a 1204c female hose end crimp fitting to suit a -4 (1/4) hose but you can also get a 1208c fitting to suit a -8 (1/2") and both will come with a 3/4 JIC female socket end. Only difference been bore size but both fittings will bolt onto the same 3/4 JIC male end,nipple or block so you have to know what to order first. Still gets back to using a known supplier to get what you want and need. We use Hydralink solely and on my ute I used Aeroflow solely and have had zero issues with either.

Aeromotive SS pump...noisey but it works and is street and time proven on my car. I use a large 4 port Mallory return reg to cut PSI and a Aeroflow dead head reg to trim PSI. Obviously mine is set up for Webers hence the set up but as this pump has done many PCM events many trips down Heathcote and Calder with up to 11 laps in 1 night while @ 31 degree's c. Did Drag Challenge (1800plus km's in 5 days with 5 race meetings) and just the other week did the trip to Summernats came 2nd in the NAT ASP 6cyl class again and drove home. Best part is it costs $260. Ando and I actually have the runs on the board with decent HP carby xflows doing it our own way. Yes I could of used a Aeromotive dead head reg but as I actually do street my car ALOT I need cool cycled fuel.Yes I could use a different smaller pump to fed the webers 2.5PSI but what makes people think I didn't try it both ways and have them fail ? Nothing is on my car that wasn't put on as a improvement or necessity. If nothing else it can supply you ideas and options as our stuff is legit.

Aeromotive...best name in fuel systems.

Fitted new slotted DBA rotor's and pad's to stock calipers on my XF ute and it goe's 11.9 116mph in the qtr and if I stand on the brakes it looses oil pressure. How much more do you need ? On the coil overs I use Viking double adjustable coil overs front and rear. On Drag Challenge they were a god send (not that god is real just a figure of speech) in that we could dial in settings to suit drag or road in less than 30secs front and rear. Car felt as good @ 100kph around bends as it did @ 190kph in the top end of the track. No need for fancy brakes unless you plan on doing lot's track laps.