slydog

Doe's it really matter...yes it doe's is the short answer. If you use a filter top air cleaner and base no ellement it will clear with a 2" spacer and give the car best chance of using the carb combo.

They need camshaft,compression and ignition for big carbs but after that cyl head flow. No point putting a tiny port dirt slinger head on a engine you want to rev over 7000 cos It won't make power. Been there,seen it,done it fixed it. Turning the carb East West doe's enhance em though but many choose to stay North/South and it's all but free hp ???

Camshaft and compression dictate carby size. Xflows L O V E big carbys and online CFM predictors are no where near right for the long stroke small bore 250 cube inline. I used a 750DP last time it was a 4 barrel car East/West and it was the best it ever was as a single carb car. Pro Systems speced it with a 790 unit but webbers solved all the induction issues.

Doesn't matter what model module you use in Auto or Manual. Yes 3.3 Manual has best timing curve but use to fool em by dropping the temp sender in the washer bottle with a earth leed on it. Or you can use a couple of relays in series I think ??? to fool it to keep full timing. Once it reaches I think 85 degree's the timing module pulls a heap of timing out of it and doing one of the tricks above get around it.

I found Bosch leeds to give best performance of over the counter stuff. P.S I also run leeds around the front and can remove rocker cover without un plugging leeds.

This ^^^ old school look modern running

Barra isn't as easy as everyone makes out but it certainly is cheap reliable hp. Not gunna stand out or be interesting with a Barra but it will work.

Q fitted a EF/EL series manifold and stuff to his along with a cam and some other tweaks and it runs mid 14's.

No it's exactly how I did my flat tappets too. Fastest xflow in the country doe's it and so do I. You will notice the lash setting is stated as a HOT setting and as alloy reacts strongly to heat it will be a big gap. Dean @ Tighe is knob and will tell you anything too. They do the semi on all roller xflow cams and mine is set 1 tooth plus 2 degree's. That is not made up,it's stated in my build thread even. Hence the importance to dial the cam in and I'll bet everything I know it's not cos your engine builder would of said it's not needed in your case on a 6 cyl. There all the same. So again...Id set the lash cold tighter cos when it's hot it's gunna be well over that and can hurt the pushrod tips if revved that way for long like when running a cam in or something??? Reading and listening is the biggest asset everyone has but you also choose how and when you do it.

P.S thats actually a hot setting on those and will be too big when running. I set mine to 8th and 10th cold.

I use studs...

The blue alloy body HVC coil is the pick for street use over the plastic cased unit. The plastic unit is for short burst use as stated by MSD and I have to say I have burn out a blue and red phenolic HVC body coil's but not a alloy unit yet.

Leaving the inners in is all but a certain recipe for cam lifter failure. Never had one last on a solid unless inners removed due to spring pressure they run.

Lifters first of course...? Good lube like Joe Gibbs or Penrite Red lube and the absolute best break in oil you can buy.Again Joe Gibbs or Penrite are my choices. If you skimp out on first start up your making the engines chance of longer life shorter than it can be. Did you leave the Inner springs out for start run in ?

Holden head stud sealer works best. But of late I been using some permatex shit and never had a issue. I also wind mine down to full tension. That bolt (stud in my case) was machined down a bit and I stack 4 hardened washers and have never cracked a block. Did it on a 84DA and my current 86DA. Current combo has had the head on and off maybe 10 times or more?

Yes you could do it like this via flag terminals but it would still not be weather proof as it the point of the caps. In saying that people...I have mine wired in without the weather caps for ohhhhhhhhhhhh like 6 or more years with zero issues and a few car washes but not much rain driving.

HF1 head,C4 flex plate and a short alt bracket set up like Corty's had.Would be first of alloy headed xflows

Big speedflow oil cap fitting and a -12 JIC male nipple for a breather

I'm actually going back to a big single for street and mainly to remove weight and make it eaiser to do pipe drop on race day. Went for a 3.5" Hooker Aero Chamber and I'll add a Gonzo style race muffler and flange for a turn down so if @ PCM or events that require mufflers I'll still be legit but I can remove the the rear of the exhaust for weight saving and no real loss of power.

Yeah it didn't work on mine.Killed regs every 6-12mths. Even tried a equivalent Magna fuel pump and it suffered stammer and as said before due to the pressure drop needed for the induction on the car I believe. But the current Aeromotive pump and combo of regs got it sorted and has been as such ever since. Yes it cost more in the end cos I had to basically replace the system and try various pumps where If I fitted the Aeromotive and combo of regs to start with I would of saved money LOL. Arrrrgggggggh.

No...Return reg is firewall mounted in the bay and BEFORE cut reg.Has return off 1 port and feeds dead head/cut reg. Dead head reg then has a fuel log off it and 3x -6 feeds to carburetors. By this stage the fuel has only has to travel maybe 500mm from cut reg to carbs. Yes it takes 2 regs to make this work which cost money but it's also is more reliable in my application and needed due the amount of pressure drop I need while retaining volume of fuel.You can do it other ways im sure but this way has worked and did Drag Challenge,Summernats,PCM and Powerfest and so plus many many road km's with zero issues.

Return reg gives you options a check valve can't and allows for expansion within the single unit. Ill run the nitrous solinoides off the return reg as its a 4 port and the pump has heaps of head room. But if you need to adjust amount returned you wind in or out. Not as cheap as a by pass though. My car runs webbers and needs more control to a lower level. I trim to 7.5 psi on the return reg and cut to 2.5 on the dead head carb feed reg. Yet when its mobile the nitrous will use 5.5 psi and all off the same fuel system and single pump thanks to the adjustable control.

Not a fan of the by passed fuel systems. I ended up with stammer or shudder in the lines. Only fix was BIG Mallory return reg bay mounted and larger return line than feed line. Just like in other fast cars LOL. Starting with a quality pump like Aeromotive unit helps. I use a SS unit with a big Mallory return reg to trim and a Aeroflow non return to cut PSI pre-fuel log. Cos my carbs only need 2.5 PSI but need bulk volume a OS pump was the safest and best option in this case.

Lol I dig it

Sure go for it...just no Beige talk or your gone LOL