slydog

Yep sun gears could be jammed up in the centre causing drive to go to both axles.Either way big rpm's and dropped clutches always = dead gearboxes and diffs and engine mounts. Atleast you accept that by having a diff ready to drop in.

Nope only ever kill the expensive ones...

260,000km completely stock bottom end with a VERY big solid camshaft that did 7200rpm in top gear and then drove home under it's own power. Yes they can take ALOT of punishment.

Hang on so it still goe's?That would be more like backlash on the crown wheel and pinion.Need to get em lapped and re-set in that case which means another diff is WAY cheaper.Get a E series sedan diff (ED forward is the go) for it's 4 pinion centre and 28 spline axles in most of em.

When rolling in neutral it has no load on it but when in gear under power the sun gears are what forces the centre to turn.Id say you have smashed a tooth or two on them.Perhaps checking to see if a simple replacement with a mini spool is on the cards.You can pull the centre out with home tools and pull it apart to install the spool...just a option and cheaper than a new diff.

Hey Jase

Well you lock the timing with a TFI dizzy and a MSD Street fire for under $200.Stop talking about it,stay off the piss for a week and stop skidding tyres and just buy one and wire it up.It will transform the car I promise. Besides that the run can be unburnt carbon or it could be too much cyl pressure with a small cam.I use to just turn my ute off by dragging the clutch a little.Did it for around 4-5 years so it can't hurt em too much.

Umm sort of bud total timing needs to come back and or turn it off in gear and drag the clutch a tad.Besides that doe's it have a MSD or aftermarket ignition? If so time for a TFI dizzy bro...

The whole point of a muffler is to quieten the car...LOL

Pretty sure isn't good enough bro...take it to a/the shop to deck it and tell them your desired compression ratio along with the piston cc and it will be right.They will have to measure the chambers to find out how much to take off it.

Oh,bet cha it won't go to 7000 then...he he he

Or perhaps a C4 and a 4500 convertor so you can go fast?

Nah a single pattern camtech unit 650 lift 270 duration on 106 lob sep with 104 ICL.It is soooooooo easy to drive around it's not funny but when you hit it it comes on soooooooo hard.Sounds super super cranky and rather choppy at idle but it has been the best so far by a long shot.

Dude I got a kick ass solid here that will turn a 250 into a tractor.I mean torque from zero and solid HP to 6700 easy with the right springs and SOLID bottom end.It will tear the manual apart though you will have fun till it did.

Hey Grimmy you should really put some 3.45's in that diff and watch how it goe's then.Q has that cam in his sedan and pull VERY hard.Q runs 3.23 's and it makes it come on cam quicker.

OK your not gunna listen for what ever reason but I'll tell you anyway,actually pretend Im xrglenn for a while if it helps. You can fit and use all this shit before you even do the engine so,buy a MSD Street fire Ignition for $179,get a TFI dizzy,and a good coil or a basic Bosch unit.That ignition system will now power any future combo you come up with.Ask Clint how well his TFI MSD combo worked out for him amongst others.Simple basic and the BEST thing you could do for any single combo you come up with as it will allow you make HP not limit HP like a electronic dizzy will.Why do I say this...because I have done it and have the results from all bar a crank trigger ignition and for the money I have to ask why not do it as all you will do is miss out on FREE HP. Use no less than a 2.5 exhaust and get the collectors modified to enhance flow/scavenging.This again is totally free hp like the ignition and can be done to any engine in any state of tune at any time. Buy a Romac or Powerbond balancer,I would and do use a custom Powerbond unit but as Glenn likes Romac use one of them if you wish.Again you can use this component on any engine at all at any time and it is FREE HP. Next up buy and fit a DC electric water pump as it's FREE HP.I hope your getting the idea here by now. After this is all fitted tested and made to work how you like start buying engine parts every week as needed.Buy 125lb dual springs,new retainers,locks to suit your stock valve gear will do for now.Any bigger and your into single groove territory.A gasket set to suit the intended rebuild,a camshaft and lifter kit after you consult with Camtech,sorry Crow in your case and do speak to them via the ph not just purchase something cheap off eBay FFS.I would advise you to ring Camtech and speak to Jim Tamborello aswell as they WILL help you.A set of bolt on roller rockers even 2nd hand of eBay if your that concerend about spending money on em will help.Scorpion do not make bolt adjustable's as I have a set on my ute engine and they need the head machined and a set of studs fitted that are just not needed here ATM.That said you don't need adjustable units here either,just roller rockers will free up HP aswell. Then purchase your inlet,I cannot suggest a 4 barrel enough but if you want more throttle response and LESS HP and torque go for a 2 barrel manifold and carb combo. If you buy it all as you go it will spread the $$$ out and allow you to spend a little more where it is needed.A car is a combination of parts so it will need a convertor and a set of gears to suit aswell so purchase with this in mind the whole time. Thats me...

Doesn't mean he was right either bro.No one I know who runs FAST uses a single pattern camshaft.The exhaust outflows the inlet and if the head is ported very well having extra exhaust duration helps pull the inlet charge into the cyl.But again each combo is different... He is over at hotsixes if you want to chase him up.Won't save you any money and you will not go faster but thats your choice.

I'm going to a twin 2.5 with my new combo...LOL But the single 3" works great as is but it STUPID loud!

Cheap and performance are not in the same sentence or you are asking the wrong question.Budget is the key,make a HONEST budget and plan on that.If it works out go for it if not alter/change thoughts,standards,expectations and see what you end up with then see if you would be happy or not. Nothing is ever as easy as it is written so don't think a fresh AU engine and conversion would be cheaper either.

I hear ya bro...in a xflow RPM cost $$$ but they make torque in spades which in street cars means faster acceleration!Just got to mold em right...It's not super difficult just harder than and engine swap with zero add on's as you need a package. I took my ute to Winton last year while it only revved to 6700 at the time it won all bar 1 of 12 races and only lost to a blown XR8 FG ute by less than a fender in the top end.It's all in the combination brah...that motor on street tyres in any gear would smoke the tyres till you got out of the throttle.Crazy tractor engine it was but while I short shifted in low gears I revved it out in top which shows RPM isn't everything but it also isn't cheap.

You are reading this all wrong bro.You can have a 900hp car run 12's or a 400hp car run 11's.Which do you want? A dyno figure is just that and means next to nothing,a ET slip speaks real HP.Which brings us to the true purpose of the car and what you expect to receive for your $$$.If you want something fast and reliable you NEED to spend money and not just on the engine.You need to spend money on the ignition,fuel system,exhaust,induction suspension and brakes and safety to get close to what you want. A fast car is not a big HP engine it is a car that has ALL the correctly matched bits from head to sump and everything in between plus the convertor,gearing fuel used,ignition,suspension,tyres (if it has 250hp if will smoke street tyres easy) and above all MONEY. Can't do fast cheap so stop asking the impossible as we have all asked it well before you and found out the hard way fast = $$$ and concessions cos a fast car is not a everyday car.Ask your self what you truly want,research and plan the build,ask all the questions then be prepared to spend the money.No way around it bro...

Well I would say you give Dave $$$ for one of his engines and go smoke some some commondores

TFI dizzy and a street fire ignition will gain more HP,fuel efficiency,easier starting and for less than $200.If you only rev it to 5000 a smaller cam will do and stock rod bolts are fine.No need for the Windsor ARP units for that RPM.Hell I spun a stock bottom end to 7200rpm,stock 28CC slugs,stock rods,stock bolts and only a good balancer. That cam NEEDS diff gearing to work aswell so if you use 2.92-3.23 gears it will be a dog. From Jase Stoodley... One of the combos I ran through the years was very healthy and only mild and was fun on the street i thought i would put it up here. Block: 80da bored & honed .030 Crank: 250 ground & balanced Rods: 250 machined balanced and 302w ARP bolts fitted Pistons: ACL 21cc dish - combined with a 50 odd cc head was about 9.5:1 comp. Cam: 230@50 530lift hydro - great cam for these motors! Head: open chamber carby unmarked ported, 1.85" in, 1.55" exh valves, turned out it flowed 320hp Springs: crow 7333 doubles - head needs machining for these. Other parts included rollmaster chain, yella terra street terra bolt ons, crow pushrods, romac balancer. Used to run a ultraflow manifold with a 500 holley went well but changed over to a cain and 600 vacuum secondaries and what a difference. Was running a Hall dizzy with a MSD 6AL and MSD digital timing computer- the equivalent now would be a 6AL-2 programmable running 36deg total timing. Used a 2200stall in a c4 with 3.7 rear gears. the car was a full street car cortina ran 13.6 @ 100mph then 13.3@103 when i changed to the 600vac and made 200rwhp The thing is every thing below the head is still the same motor in the car now.

Chris that sounds pretty serious bro,I like it.Dyno vid doesn't do it justice as I bet it's a alot deeper from behind at RPM.Still awesome noise bro...

His is NAT ASP which is ALOT more severe than a boosted application on launch unless it's transbraked.I used to brake mounts in my ute when it was manual too.Rolling burnouts and dropped clutches kills boxes and mounts and stuff pretty quickly.