slydog

On something with some serious HP bro...plus it will cost about $1500 to do it properly so it works.

Yep for you stock rebuild with new rings bearings,proper bearing clearances done and checked,rebuilt oil pump and the whole show balanced.Then your cam,new lifters,new chain kit,and a 500 holley on a two barrel manifold will go very very well.If fuel is not a concern (and it shouldn't be) use a 4 barrel and a 600DP with the big ignition and exhaust. Can I ask why you want a dual 2.5 on yours please?

So are you leaving the bottom end stock or rebuilding it too? If so deck the block to get zero deck height and then measure chamber CC's to get your compression ratio and the head dude will take care of the rest.The diff gearing is based on daily use I gather and if so it's OK. Ummmm that combo doesn't need dual 2.5's and as a daily a single 2.5 would be fine but any single exhaust shop can do twin 2.5's for you.Stu at racers choice is doing mine but mine but it will cost around $1500 at a guess.

Whats the rest look like bro? Standard valves are fine on it TBH but it would like some compression,like around 10-10.5,good induction,extractors and atleast a 2.5" exhaust,a MSD and TFI dizzy will work wonder and help it make more power,start easier and all the other stuff I rant on about. What about diff gearing and transmission type along with intended use of the vehicle?

You need alot more than just springs bro.Thats a fairly big camshaft but to answer your question yes you need springs to suit around 530th lift from memory.

This is the dude...just ring him cuz.Who says the email gets there,if you ring you talk...or get a msg bank and then no reply I guess...LOL

Mite be time to get some pics of your car up including the diff assembly bro... Shame I hope it all works out for you and don't want any bad shit to come from it for you.

The paint doe's need a certain heat range to cure and perhaps the thinners was mixed too heavy so the paint is resisting going off ATM? I have found Acrylics to need warmer temps to be laid on than 2 pac.Like about 18-20 degrees min where as 2 pac can go on down to about 12 degrees. I also always use 2pac as the others just plain never match up and the outcome is always better with 2pac.

Starts easier,runs better,is more efficient and cost buggar all.I can't understand why everyone who owns a x-flow doesn't do it.I really can't? There is ZERO bad to say about it...

I want a 2 door early/mid 70's Monte Carlo on hydraulics TBH aswell.RHS and some down Mexican lowrider themed paint...mmmmm Anyway I found Glen Rulic @ Air Ride to be awesome.We use to buy bags and stuff off him for trailer/crates and stuff and his service was 2nd to none.Try yarning him up bro...

Spread the word bro...it's so easy to do but many persist with electronic that do less than good results (in an xflow) in my opinion. 1 more to the TFI team...

AOD is a US 4 speed auto that there a few over here but not many.We use electronically controlled autos they used the good hyd units... That carb is EXACTLY what mine is and will have to be tuned rich at idle or you need to get the idle circuit tuned to suit your needs.You can get them rather close via tuning the air bleeds and any real shop could sort that for you I'm sure.Thats why the HP based standard DP is better for more cruiser type users straight out of the box.Still the ST HP is years ahead of the new ultras bro and hard to go past for the price. As for your linkage the box has to be built to handle it's own shifts if not using the kick down.I have never had one on any C4 I have owned but there all shift kitted or full manual C4's.

Maybe if you bought a new one you wouldn't have struggled to tune it.Can't use a part thats been thru who knows how many hands and your lack of tuning ability as a sole blame on tuning Holleys.A simple AFR gauge doe's wonders here or a trip to a mechanic with AFR probe would have saved any issues in sorting it or atleast gave you ideas how to tune it.Mine was found to need idle circuit changes from factory settings plus I had the butterflys open to far that was showing the transfer slot and idle circuit air and fuel which made it a tad dowey and used ALOT of fuel and very rich.It was sorted easy via the AFR gauge and 11.7 compression.Problem gone... Spread bore carbys were solely designed for BB V8 in the US and there use on small cube engines is always a tuning issue as throttle response due to having two small holes open then 2 extra large one coming open the amount of air difference is extreme.A Q jet was used to get LP and victory or 2 but they were by no means close to stock.I also question anyone on the planet who wants a V8 and economy? Like owning a Harley but you want it quiet and don't want to raise attention or get noticed? You can not compare any modern EFI V8 with a 30 year old carbied V8 for fuel efficiency either.The new car has superior ignition burn and timing control,precise fuel metering and a much better designed heads to flow more power easier plus much better matched gearing to improve economy via multi speed transmissions.I'd imagine there a lighter engine too but just stuck in a fat over weight car. I hear what your saying to Webby but what is a light car these days? I reckon anything under 1500kg's is doing well based on new Commodores and Falcons tipping the scales at around 1900kg's loaded.Our FG XR6 is not that much but a base model is still 1700kg's but the V8's and the luxury models are barges.All of the sudden a 1400kg Falcon is no over weight sow which is why Ants Wagon is gunna tame ALOT of big $$$ late model V8's turbo's and such.It's 400-500kg's lighter which is 3-4 politicians in weight. My ute is 1380kg with me in it (after a hefty diet) so yes It will be on the lighter side but Cortys are not that much lighter really and my ute carby got sized by Pro Systems as needing a 740 CFM DP for it's intended purpose but for methanol it would be smaller.Showing how far out the CFM calculator can be.None of the fast x-flows run smaller than 650 CFM but I have seen many many fast V8's run 650-750's on a extra 50-100 cube combo's that makes you wonder how it works? I still rate the DP over the vac units due to only using a poxy thermo quad that was poo from day dot but a newer 600-650 may be fine if tuned right to start with???

This is a very open ended question with answers that can be taken in many ways with out many specifics.I use a 650 ST HP DP on my ute ATM.So it's a Street (ST) HP double pumper (DP).All DP's are mechanical secondary's.If it's not move on. I give my ute one full pump and it will key start within half a turn usually but it will never idle under 1300rpm and any splash oiled camshaft should not be left to idle in any case as it speeds up cam/lifter wear.So basically after it's started and running for like 30secs drive off like normal but just be smart and don't rev it till it comes up to temp. As for a choke...IMO they are not needed unless your wife will be using it as a daily driver. So my suggestion for a carb on your engine is a squarebore 650 DP on a HP design but NOT a new style Ultra.They are poo...The real Holley DP's do not have chokes but these new Ultras do and they don't have a awesome reputation.The street HP needs idle circuit tweaks to work well and have adjustable air bleeds and 4 corner idle.Again IMO not needed in your case so I would go for the basic HP DP... Use this and delete or just don't use the choke and your happy for years... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-4777c/overview/ If your thinking performance then go for this bad boy...http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80541-1/overview/

WTF only 4000RPM my convertor hasn't started yet at them revs...LOL Thom is right bro and has a awesome combo there.Just remember if you go a small torquey cam you can't go to high in compression cos it will rattle like a diesel. A good combination is what it's all about not the brand names on the parts.But remember to buy to a plan,not just buy a 850 carb cos it was cheap and a massive camshaft for a stock comp engine.

Thats all I use on my Aussie speed cover.I do dress em before hand though with a very very light SMEAR of black RTV sealant.Problem with tin covers is they tend to warp so by cleaning and it as getting straight as possible and doing the same process of prep it would be fine. It only has to stop oil leaks so no need to be tightened down by the NZ rugby packs front row.

What is it for one and you should have primed the oil pump before even trying to start it.I use a full battery on my 18volt cordless drill winding the oil pump over while I get a mate to wind the crank over by hand to help spread that golden love everywhere. If it's a xflow,find TDC,pull the dizzy and pour some oil down there then wind the oil pump drive over with a 8mm socket (I think it's 8mm that fits the oil pump drive) on a extension bar and a hand brace or cordless drill till you get oil coming out the rocker gear. Id guess it's still a tad noisy and really you should not be starting it until you have solid oil pressure and oil everywhere in the engine.

I found Roloc disc's on Monster Garage years ago and pestered local tool shops for ages till I found a supplier.Yes I still use em today.

need a cdi box to fire it all.

PM sent.The module is on the dizzy...

A dizzy out of a XE EFI car.

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/637-msd-digital-6-ignition/ TFI dizzy can be had from any wrecker for between nothing and $60.

Buy my MSD digital6,fit a TFI dizzy (with module to make it easy for you) and use a Bosch coil...It will be a NEW car.

Crazy is still EFI Jase TF-250 is EFI Wazzy is EFI mechanical.Yes you can go custom EFI manifold or use a E series BBM and a MS computer.

Are you talking going for the Clevo? Well EFI is harder on the clevo cos there was no factory EFI manifold how ever nothing is impossible but if it is a weekend only car just run it on a carby and use petrol.Limited use means no fuel issues cos you don't drive it everyday. As EFI xflows there everywhere...