slydog

I have tried Camtech,Tighe (never again) Surecam and Clive.Clive will be doing my work from now on based on service,cost,product and time frame.Surecam do awesome work but old Phil is rather sick ATM...

Hey bro thats no good.How do you know it's not working? Is it set on the correct cyl setting is the limiter set at a sensible setting and tested under load?

Taken straight from the other crate engine thread... My boy Marty bought a GM Performance 383 4 bolt short for his Impala.Dressed it with some AFR heads,RPM air gap and a 750 Hardcore Ultra. No complaints about it other than the dudes at Rocket scratched my new Falcon when we picked it up.

Yeah well if Ford Holden Toyota and such went to electric fans must be a reason and your experience backs that up.Seems your not alone either and as Im switching mine to electric fan this weekend as its getting cold down here and the clutch hub is buggered (2nd one thats been on the car since I owned it) which will alow better temperature control.

Yes forgot to mention that...good pick up.

Umm your the only one slinging on people and as no one shit on your view till you laid a well practiced strip that no one took your devod. Only need positive or constructive comments not shit on peoples builds or ideas like you did baiting people.This isnt xfalcon in case you didnt notice.

Correct which shows about 200rwkw which is more than MANY V8's make at the feet.People only shit on your efforts or success when they them selves have none.

For me it's based on the colour of the car and wheels to be used.On new style big inch rims thin red walls every day on any make colour.On my White XF Ghia I run red walls on snowies and no walls on my 19's.But for that Blue sedan in the picture I would only use white walls on smaller rims or stockers.

The front stud doe's go into water and I found the only sealant that works is the Holden branded stuff.Thats not really a issue in it's self as you can address that as it sits now.As for the condensation I'd suggest taking it for a a longish drive of about 30mins-1hr atleast at constant hyw RPM and speed and that should see the end of the water in the oil. But first off remove and re seal that front stud and take it up in like 4 stages as your not doing all of em your only doing one so you could easily crack the front of the block.That said I always do em up to full tension too and have never had a failure as I use assembly paste under the nut.

Never had to play with one TBH so I'm lucky by the sounds of it...

Oh dear...

Well there's really no issue with them if set up correctly.With the added fact that almost all modern cars run thermo fans with no belt driven fan sort of makes the point loud and clear.Hard to argue with that really unless the big car manufacturers are all wrong of course?

Who told you to use synthetic stuff ? I would not recommend it for sure but I would recommend using Joe Gibbs paste and Joe Gibbs run in oil.You pay $50 for it and it has everything (yes even zinc) needed to protect the engine on start up and not hinder run in.Using shit oil in the most important part of engine run in is far from ideal if you think about it which is why I cringe every time I read about people doing it.Thats when it needs the MOST protection on the bearings rings and lifters/camshaft.The lifters WILL bed to the cam if you run it for no less than 20 mins @ 2000 rpm on SOFT springs.Skipping any part of it you are really taking a chance with modern camshafts and oils. Yes the moly lube been added to a oil works to a degree but at no benefit as the molly paste actually stops at the filter in most cases as it's not hot enough to fully break down in the first few minutes of start up.Yes thats why I pre-heat the Joe Gibbs oil before hand.It's a screw around to start with but it saves me money and time fixing cam failures by doing my long drawn out run in procedure.To me it just has to be done as oil's and modern metals are not what they use to be. Just from what I have found with my x-flow lately,not that I need to worry about this with the roller cam either.

My build has never been about trying to build it for $2000 as I never really had a money/budget target for it.My exploits have shown others what doe's and doesn't work in big rpm x-flows aswell so i'm teaching the masses,all 7 of em what not to do as a community service too...lol Why do you think I havn't done a V8 before? I had a silver grey XD ESP 475hp 4V clevo that ran 11.8 16-17 years ago.I just like the challenge of a NAT ASP 6cyl and spanking that many v8's down Winton last year made my time and effort worth while.I don't want to stand out I just don't want to do v8 or even easier turbo 6 because society says I have to when I know I can make this work and work very well.Just because others can't make em go doesn't mean there right.The smart ones can and there just a engine after all,nothing hard just have to think a little differently and I fit that bill. I never told anyone to like or follow me and my build or ever asked for peoples thoughts but they offer it all the time.I seek advice and even just chat with like minded people who have done the same as me before hand and we find we are much alike in many ways so been different to the masses is not a issue for me at all as I have made some real friends from this journey. Thanks for your concern though...

Correct POXY SHITBOX WORTHLESS STEAMING PILES OF WATERY SHIT CAST PISTONS!

Another REALLY bad thing people do is use shitty oil for run in break in on the very most important time a engine needs the most protection is run in break in.I use Joe Gibbs stuff which is around $50 for 5ltrs but has everything needed at the initial start/run in stage.I even pre/heated the oil before hand last time and the results were perfect lifters and camshaft...but dead pistons anyway Poxy cast shit are useless on long stroke high rpm engines.

MSD actually started making em for Pro Stock which then filtered down to us...Who said racing is pointless for production car's.

Did you run it in with light springs and did you use a oil like Joe Gibbs run in oil and assemble every thing with a high quality paste?How heavy are the springs you used also?What lifters are you using? I have had it with flat tappet cams and my run procedure is pretty intense these days as a result.

No worries gun...but I aint traveling over there to find out so you better drag it over to the Eastern side of Australia.If you had a half decent engine and suspension there's no reason it wouldn't on weight saving alone let alone power.Actually are you gunna race it at all? There was a dude from SA who raced a 253 powered 120Y to mid 11's with a pretty mild set up. That would be cool seeing a 11 sec Dato thats x-flow powered...

You do not need nor want a aftermarket dizzy.The stock TFI is the best dizzy you can fit to a x-flow period! 2nd in ignition only to a crank trigger which you cannot afford if them MSD's are too much.

Here bruz...cheap way. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MSD5520-Street-Fire-Ignition-Multi-Spark-Ignition-plus-Rev-Limiter-for-4-6-or-8-/151030840948?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232a23be74 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STREET-FIRE-HIGH-PERF-CANISTER-COIL-BLACK-MSD-5524-/160547453761?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25615fbb41 Or go serious and hit this shit... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MSD6530-DIGITAL-MULTI-SPARK-FULLY-COMPUTER-PROGRAMMABLE-6AL-2-IGNITON-SYSTEM-/360560778335?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f318dc5f http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MSD-HVC-2-COIL-44-000V-SUITS-6-SERIES-IGNITIONS-MSD8253-/160622855636?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2565de45d4

Yes you can and it is done in some more serious combo's.This shows it done and on that very car. But this is a $$$ heavy investment based on the amount hardware and fabrication needed to make it happen and in your case no benefit really.

A mate runs ProComp heads on his 10 sec Falcon but I must stress the BARE CASTINGS and nothing else is ProComp.

My boy Marty bought a GM Performance 383 4 bolt short for his Impala.Dressed it with some AFR heads,RPM air gap and a 750 Hardcore Ultra. No complaints about it other than the dudes at Rocket scratched my new Falcon when we picked it up.

Bro you said it has cracked at the front where the water pump is...it needs re-blocking.