slydog

Dion uses ZOK's carbs...

Just watched a heap of 500hp plus powered C4's run 120 plus MPH down Heathcoat on the weekend.Just because they can't build em doesn't mean they can't be built to handle the power. I would consider Gregaust as a point of PM first and do as he suggests.

Mossy's Corty...check out the race face on the man.

Yes,32 degrees all in @ the crank...If you still have no luck try having a power switch before the MSD and I BET my balls it would fix it.Drag racers and speedway guys have been doing since before you were born.

Yeah spoke with Mossy today...said the car was solid all weekend and very very consistent despite the humid weather conditions. 11.2's just around the corner with the right air. Again well done Ken.

Where are you,what do you want from it,whats it behind,how much do you want to spend...

Thats a shame bud...just goe's to show trust no one but yourself.

Or easier way would be run a switch inside to turn the MSD on after the engine has wound over a bit and up at a decent speed then when you flick the switch it will fire straight up.Many blown cars use to do this back before they had start retard systems.This fix will cost around $5. But I can't see why's so hard to start when my 11.7 comp solid cammed engine wound over on the 6AL 2 with 32 degrees timing same as it did with the Digital6 which had start retard.

No not at all...cos you put your total timing in at the crank now but the total amount is still the same.22 is no where near enough. So sounds like you need a oil primer tool or old dizzy drive to lift the dizzy out move the oil pump gear and reset the dizzy back in 1 tooth back.Without moving the oil pump gear it will be pretty hard to move it back a cog with out the dizzy been to far out.

Sounds good bud...good hook up here guys.

618hp @ 122kph? WTF??? Great car though and looks like it WILL run ET's not just questionable dyno numbers.

Oh my whats doing McFly...A TFI can be wired in different ways via the start/power or power or even pip signal power together with resistors in place if your CDI doesn't accept Hall's effect.Like I said before STOP over examining things or you will get a hernia and grey hairs like Old Gaz. Here's the page you need to study...2nd 1 down.http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.diyautotune.com/jwplayer_viral/images/cartech_articles/mustang/94-95_mustang_megascott_remote_tfi_harness1.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_ford_mustang_5_0.htm&h=435&w=793&sz=16&tbnid=0I1IQLV11TL5iM:&tbnh=66&tbnw=120&zoom=1&usg=__mDwHXzQhTzf9EONJu0wWN6-HpnU=&docid=ZGkA8dFKct_GDM&sa=X&ei=jq2vUbKVDeToiAe724DgCw&sqi=2&ved=0CDUQ9QEwAw&dur=1676 Quick vid of another...

Again hows it wired up bro and hows the module

Nope you need a spacer for the EFI rocker cover...them rollers are also a stud mount unit which means you need to machine and drill and tap your head to accept a 3/8th-7/16 (Mk5 454 studs) set up or a 7/16th-7/16th stud.

One goe's to the water pump and the other goe's to the head.In what order I don't know but look at some pics on-line fore others with a similar combo you can copy the hose routes off.

Cool good hook up bro...

Cleveland Scorpions rollers on mine and where like $320 or so set. Leaves you with 4 spares. Engine master ebay and I such

Who cares there all skids to me,big skid,fast skid,power skid

No the port layout of the 2v makes that noise possible but a x-flow is different.You could change the pipes to suit but it would be a bit of work for no gain bar a V8 noise at idle.That said I'm going to a twin 2.5 on mine but after a single 3.5" merge collector and twin 2.5 merge collectors so not a true twin in these terms but mines not about the tail pipe noise. Is it doable though...yes P.S that is so not near 7000rpm it's not funny.

Good points Wes and Chris...

Woodsys Falcon engine cost ALOT less than the figures posted here is a TRUE street driven and cruised deal and will run super low 11.0's or high 10's with it's 565hp.It's only hard if you want it to be.if you can't make a big cube V8 go for acceptable money you should give it away.It's so easy to do I wonder why 500hp is acceptable. My x-flows rev to a limited 7200rpm so any motor can be made to rev and do it easily,just don't expect anything to last when you use shit Holley billit fuel pumps that lean out and kill a set of cast pistons then it floods and hydraulic's the engine to brake a piston in the new set.So my warning DON'T use Holley 150gph Billit pumps,they are shit and the best replacement for the same $$$ is a Aeromotive unit.No fuel issues since...but expensive lesson to find out. Aeromotive for the win...

Better tell Branco his his 451small block can't rev than?

Yeah I was impressed with the shop and his approach so after 5hrs in a car and 2 minutes talking to him I gave him the camshaft on the spot to grind for me...lol His machine work is on par with Phill Duggan @ Surecam and the cost was very acceptable.

It is a seriously nice car.And your correct Matty did state ENGINE alone...

Hey Matty I rate the idea bro...come see us at the Ford Nationals and I'll introduce you to Jarrod Woods.He has a 408 in a Silver Fox XR sedan that made 565 hp at a low 6250 RPM and with Pro Comp cast heads.I shit you not Pro Comp castings.It was built by VIntage Racing services in town here and his car WILL run a very low 11 or 10sec pass as it's prepped with Cal Tracs,3500 convertor,3.9's and a 275 drag radial.His engine really needs more camshaft to use the cubes but it proves for the money your talking it can be done easy enough. You will even love the car cos his work is TOP NOTCH and coming from a insurance assessor you can understand why I guess... At Narandera Rod Run Easter time before we left for GM's place.