slydog

Sorry didn't see this post. I do use basically a McDonald Bros tri angle kit in my ute but weld in style. It runs double adjustable viking coil overs front and rear with a Comp Enginerring adjustable anti roll bar. I can lower or raise the car while keeping spring rate the same on the rear in like 5mins each side. But the shocks allow you to get the ride exactly as you want. Running a soft 150lb spring leaves the shock to control ride alot better than a conventional set up.

Petrol use late XR6 injectors. E85 you would need bigger maybe. If going boost you would need 800-1000cc units. I use 1000cc units in mine. And steer away from Decca unit.

There was the biggest problem with peoples understanding of the long stroke xflow from days gone.Cyl pressure spikes are extreme and small cams with big comp make em rattle but the fix was camshaft design not the cyl head.

Theres no best head just best for combination. In my finding using a good porter is more important as you get what you pay for there. Good porter can make any head work. But for the sake of it...I have used both on mine and both get extreme chamber mods to work. Small chambers with compression and small cams are rattlers. So with that in mind and not knowing the rest of the combo (small hyd cam,2 barrel carb extractors and maybe a ignition?) I would choose the C1.

Weld Draglites yeah

650 Will be fine. Cyl head will limit hp potential not cam or carb. I understand the budget build and you can mod the head later to suit. Cam I would suggest you research US boosted engine combos and what is currently used. Been as your cube limited a modern cam idea works better here. Mine is pretty well what most call a NA profile but my grinder does the same on RB engines making over a G of hp.

Id suggest blow thru over any factory ecu. Or a aftermarket ecu like a MS3 or even a FAST set up with a screen.

McDonald bros sell a double adjustable bolt in coil over for under $1000. Well only just barely under and few years back but after doing a couple DC events and many street miles can reccomend them as a option. Takes longer to remove the old shit than it does to install the new stuff. And setting em up is different to what most think. But each car is wanting its own set up as per driver style wants needs and use.

They are a interference fit so bolt is mainly used to install not hold it on.

3.9" or 4.0" ( " = inches ) not a ohc piston.

You have to over bore and sleeve to suit then grout the block up to the welsh plugs at least. But again still limited by head gasket to around 3.82 from memory unless you go custom copper maybe. Moving the bore away from the valve is good move for power and cyl head flow aswell so a move to a 3.9 or 4.0 slug would be awesome in a xflow. Possible??? Well just asking the question makes it doable imo. No better way to dis prove peoples doubts than doing it.

Theres more NAT ASP hp potential from the 300cuber but the cost is epic. That said Wazzy made as good as 500hp with his xflow thanks to JB race engines but that would of been at a epic cost too. Issue here is people want and think of a 6cyl as a cheapo thing and expect good hp from em just as cheaply. Speed/power/money rules still apply though. I rate the idea of one though

There longer ALOT heavier and taller than a xflow with less hp. But people have been putting clevo and LS heads on em for a while. Then you get a custom cam,lifters,pushrods rocker cover,ignition exhaust and cooling. Yes I looked at it as a option but it was going to cost more than my xflow. One upside is the steel crank. Like said above a xflow is only lacking bore size not cubes and forced induction sorts that.

I use a billit Mezire flex plate on my xflow too.

Absolutly Fingers. Can't tell you how many cars using more boost than the ute that are slower. Shows 2 things,wrong turbo choice and or engine combo needs work. You dont just put "a turbo" on a stock engine and expect it to work or get the most out of it.The main reason Barras and LS engines respond to turbos is the cyl heads flow so well and there engine control/efi works well. Mark @ JPC helped in the design of my boosted cyl head which is part of the reason it went 1.50 in the 60ft untuned with belt slip in a real 1500kg with driver street driven car. Its quite literally hp been left on the table by people using xflows,sohc,holdens and ford v8's and for the hope of saving money or been uneducated. Spend $1000 on porting and seats and valve shaping and gain a potential 100plus hp over non ported. MTOD show the difference between a stock ls turbo and a built ls turbo and the outcome was even better with a extra 300plus hp. Who doesnt want that???

Ill take the 800hp motor

Turbos are odd things and Im not on board my self but Dans LS Centura with Chinee turbo but sized right has ZERO lag. Like powerskids from idle to max rpm in top long as you can from a standing start like your doing a brake skid. Get the exhuast on the smaller side and it will still make the hp and make it such a better deal...IMO based on stuff that actually works on real cars not internet talk.

Compression won't kill a engine,tune will. Barras and 2js run over 10 comp. Need to talk to people who build other engines not just xflows to go forward. Or be stuck with a VHS player if you get my drift. Aus fastest RBs run more comp than you think too. My xflow runs 11.2 comp and has seen 10psi @ 7500rpm with a big cam and big cyl head. On a small or stock headed combo with a small cam it would show ALOT more boost but wouldn't make the same hp.Boost is only a measurement of inlet restriction after all. So a bigger head with less restriction means it shows less boost but makes more hp and you use more comp which means little to no lag time if turbo is sized right.

Or you buy xflow guide plates.

No one needs a turbo. But its ok to want boost.

Two things so far...not enough cam and not enough compression. Last flat tappet I ran had 650 lift and 270 @ 50. Although I had nothing but good results from Mal @ Camtech I suggest ringing the cam grinders to spec your cam shaft.

Mine is blown but there was zero difference between NAT ASP and blown with engine oil and or coolant temp. Id suggest using a iron head water pump pulley to slow the pump down to allow it to cool in the radiator longer or going to a electric water pump and controller. My car never went over 85c coolant temp or 185f all last week on Drag Challenge even after 3-4hrs stints.

Less talky more doey

Pro-There are kits available to do it. They can make really really good hp done right. Con-there expensive and every other person on here will tell you to turbo it cos its cheaper. But why be its bitch when you can be its master. I love the blower idea because its different now days.

Base engine has to make 300 to make 450 plus but it should that easy. The B I G issue here is the Americans that make the kits use Windsors not clevo's. You might be stretching to find one