slydog

Lol forgot about this thred...

Manuals with clutch dumps or when used in drag racing they can separate.But it's mainly just from old age.

Wow tidy car bro...Props ay.

Notice the bump stop...me either. Doesn't need it when it's not too low...BUT tbh the whole time I had this car DOWN it never had stops and never hit anything either. Musta been lucky or just the fact it wasn't my daily when really down.

It never will suck in clean as its all by product of the combustion process. You got a big open path from crank case to the rocker cover and ALOT of stuff flinging around in there man. So 2 options are a as Dean said or a a breather tank plumbed to a fuel pump that sucks the gaseous vapor and cycles it thru a catch can and breather cap then onto exhaust. That will insure no oil makes its way into your exhaust which if your muffler fills with oil/fuel then the car has a pop it will explode. Or like me I run a open -12 line to a breather tank over where the heater box should be and once the car is up to temp there's no more fumes.

Yeah its just stock chain...

Since going to the ATI the engine actually was quieter and smoother. Maybe the old Powerbond unit just needs a rebuild cos it is like 7 years old now but going for the larger pulley also helps A L O T which takes away the benifit of charging at lower RPM.As seen @ AFF with my light (s) lol on fans fuel pump and such going @ idle I was down to 11.7 volts charging.Over idle it was fine but under that was poo town.I even popped the bonnet thinking the belt came off but nooooooo it was still on.Tickle the rpm and batt light went out and volts over 13 again. But back to getting it on,I don't need to charge the battery at meeting and TBH it hasn't been charged in MTHS even though it gets driven once every 2-3mths and only a short burst at a time.So in closing they need a bigger pully unfortunately or ALT on the pinion as that doesn't move. its a bain on any xflow that see's RPM over 5500 and any that doesn't use OS pully's and or a quality balancer.

Nascar use flat tappet cams with around 825-850th lift.They don't dig in.The only limit is your back pocket for set up. Use big lift you use a lifter with a wider footprint and more curve on the camshaft to promote rotation of the lifter. Your cam is only splash fed so EDM lifters are needed and can still fail but any real lift means solid or roller cam.

A roller cam takes A L O T bigger spring than a flat tappet.They need control to put the valve back on the seat even at small cam specs such as 224.

I have had Wazzy's 3/8th one's with Trend 3/8th pushrods on my engine for years. Less weight than stock as it's pushing a solid roller lifter not a hyd or solid flat tappet unit and there's less deflection. Cost me $110 to get my head set up to accept screw in studs and ground flat.Another $80 to accept the larger clevo springs??? Wazzys guide plates are around $110 posted.

Wazzy made xflow guide plates to suit 5/16 or 3/8th for stud mount. But as said above you only need it if your going for higher RPM big spring pressures. The clamp on shanked units will pull out if show any real pressure or big RPM so it's a case of when needed. So is it a fuck around ? Only on low performance engine.On a good 1 it's piece of mind. Trying to cut corners or save money in valve train is the worse place.Save it on stock pistons and balanced bottom end but up top needs to legit to be safe to save the fuck around of having to rebuild it later when it drops a valve.

Again ask Branko with over 800th lift if there shit? Mine only broke cos they were rubbing on the pushrods. Scorpian are fine but you don't like em is what you could say as a option.

Top of plastic cowl screwed to rad.Bottom of cowl held in place by soft mount foam backed DC zip locks.

Can't say for certain bud but It would be a good chance Id suggest.

Heads will be fine even on a modded engine. If you want to get serious move to a Edelbrock alloy set but till then there just fine. Great on fuel sound like a V8 and go like a stock Harley...shit. LOL

I no reason a 28 spline in a LSD won't take what you are about to give it. I mean unless you plan on drag racing it in a car that "hooks" 28's will be fine IMO. But if you want...Id suggest going to a 31 spline as they cost the same and there stronger. Axles can be had thru Rocket VPW and such easy enough though.

Plus my favorite...you get to run man sized lift and gain torque and HP. Even Engine Masters agree,watch the last ep bruz.

I don't know about 600hp but Jarrods 408 that runs 10.2 131 plus it needed a tank cos it was loosing PSI from rear to front. Ran it with a Magnafuel 500 and return @ the pump and it was loosing 2.5 to 3 PSI by the time it got to the carb till he fitted a Carter lift and a kept the Magna fuel to feed the carb. Normally I'd say B I G pump and a return reg in the bay but I couldn't say with any confidence you would be OK TBH.Mines OK like this in the ute cos of 2 reasons. Less distance to travel and 2nd the Webers only run 2.5PSI.

Xd to xh fit as there drilled for 3 patterns

I got a bronze sleeve to make a modern dizzy fit the old block in my ESP.

Shaved bumperette's about 6 or more years ago now and you would be surprised how many people don't pick it as modified...

This is wrong. You tune to what the engine tells you it wants based on use not targeted figures. Doesn't matter what the figure is and TBH most innovate units will shit them selves pretty quick where as the AEM and such last forever.Better off actually getting it tuned on a dyno.

You will heat up faster than us but over all create less heat build. In my case I use it to cool the engine on shut down so it doesn't heat soak and be hot next time I start it. Draining on battery life but my car like Ando's is far from a daily so not a issue I'd suggest. When my ute was a daily with the EWP I did have to set it hotter though like you suggest to help get temp into the old engine.New 1 with 12.1 comp and grout doe's that by it's self now days LOL.

Think I spoke to Ando about this and I would still not use a thermostat for such limited use. Ando can warm the car on stands in gear as oil temp is more critical than coolant temp in this application. I don't rev mine hard till it has 80 degrees of oil temp but if I do drive the ute on the street after a few mins of steady 50kph stuff its at temp like a normal car. Thanks in part to the grouted block.

Thats the idea behind them to give you a better spread of useable gearing.That would enable you to make it faster and also better on the hwy.Them 6 speed commys have like 3.7's from memory?