slydog

Discontinued long time ago. If the crack is between the valves its not a major worry.

Can I suggest it needs tighter lobe seperation due to the poor induction on a xflow. The head flows like poo and there is more hp in the cyl head than you think when ported by a good shop not for a dirt slinger. By using 104-106 lobe will aid torque then the webbers and ported head extend rpm range and hp made if used with 11.5 comp plus. Generally I use no less than 8 degrees seperation between exhaust to inlet duration also. I use Johnny Marshall of Marshall custom cams and Phill Duggan of Surecam.

So if you know a clevo you know xflows. Same shitty valve train in both. Both have same issues except cyl heads flow differently but both crap. And as expected your not going to build 1 anyway lol.

Well... my engine could be copied for nearly half of a $18,000 clevo. However every engine needs fuel system, ignition, exhaust and so on. A turbo xflow is cheaper than a na clevo. Remember a clevo still needs cyl heads to work, ignition exhaust manifold carburettor and so on. But its all the same regardless of engine really. A xflow bottom end needs a quality damper and flexplate. Pushrods, convert to a solid lifter cam and cyl head porting. Porting is free hp that all but doubles with boost. But big 1 is how much can you do yourself if your asking money money money before you start. Money usually kills a build before it starts in most cases. I however just did it over many years...and still going. First race out from turbo build raced a NA clevo XA. Beat it running a 10.7 to his 11.1. Next meeting first race was against a clevo xy. We both went 10.3 129 but I won by a better reaction time. But my car costs way less than both of theres and beat em. However its still more than most want to spend which is the part that makes or breaks the car.

Seen a guy from Wellington make over 450whp on a stock blow thru xflow with a ebay turbo. Mine made 460fwhp NA and would beat alot of 400kw cars at the track. So hp number means nothing if set up is not on point. But lets assume you turbo a xflow with stock flowing head with a xr6 turbo. Prob 500hp is a safe number on good tune and fuel.

I just put 110nm or 80ft lbs on the front stud. 80nm been stock setting.

I use a EF oil pump on mine. Bursons sold em over the counter. My pick up is stock from 1 of fingers old xflows only cos my old 1 got lost?

Common thing is people think barra swap is easy and dead cheap. Till they keep finding stuff thats needed and how much they can not do. Equals expensive. Xflow needs ALOT to make power and be reliable but its rarely what people do and or use and then when results are not what they wanted there blame the engine, not the combination. Then people think go barra cos there poor decisions.TBH the barra platform is waaaaaaay better but it has so many more years development on it so it should be too. But people expect Barra type performanceon xflow money. Its not a thing.

Odd but radial drag racers now fit a 275x60 Radial Pro over a 12"-13" rim in outlaw and x275. 235 Radials are been strung over 9-10" and running deep in the 8s.

I run a cooler around mine???

Copper is worth alot more than ally. Mine is a stock AC falcon sedan rad I paid $50 for.

Stock copper radiator works just fine. Mine uses a AC copper radiator and I haven't had to turn the fans on unless im trying to cool it after shut down. Even when pro charged with a single 14" fan it never got hot?

Modern NA 4 cyl cars have twin 2" - 2.25" exhausts. You have to get it out of there.

And a 2.5" is not big enough. The old twin 2.5" on mine was stupid added weight but worked well,however a single 3.5" would of done the same with half the weight. If a exhaust sounds like poo it's cos there's not enough engine in front of it.

Stay out of this you...LOL

They sound no different. Only way to make a exhaust sound good is to put a stout engine on it.

6-2-1... So 2 pairs of 3 into 1 merge into a pair of 2.5" collectors into a single 3.5" merge collector then back into twin 2.5" pipes. Single 2.5" is not big enough tbh.

My 850hp rated C4 uses BW clutches x5 and the bands from memory.

Its got a 84 DA seal in it but needs a 86DA unit. Same size as a EF seal.

You need r's on a EFI engine so you don't cause signal interference

Sooooooo...tighter you set em longer they last usually but there is a limit to both sides of that comment. Some work on x.007 of bore. I actually set my Wiseco's at 15th top and 2nd 17th 8 years ago. After much of that time NA and 8200rpm and later a P1SC Procharger I pulled the bottom end down to ready for a freshen up and found there at 26 and 28th respectively. My turbo combo will be set up the same with 26th top 28th 2nd. So I never go crazy on ring gap and TBH 20-22th and 22-24th on a stockish engine set with 3or 4th piston bore clearance is heaps IMO.

Pushrods and lifters (if flat tappet) do too. Along with valve springs if you watch a spintron in action.

So first thing to know is the rings rotate in the bores as they go up and and down so don't stress too much. But for the argument I set the oil rings 180 apart from each other and find a spot on the piston im happy with. Then the 2nd ring goe's as far away as you can get it from the "top oil ring" gap. Then the top ring is 180 opposite the 2nd ring gap. But the rings still rotate in the bores at there own rate anyway so don't be too concerned.

Duttwellier turbo podcast is awesome.

Tom is a veteran US Pro Stock racer,Darrin Morgan...well best there is in porting.