blownxd393

The 4v manifold on a 2v is an old school 80s trick iam lead to believe worth 30hp. For the life of me iam not sure how with the huge step.

Seen it a few times and even where ppl port blend them.

Now the good news for you is that if you sell it you may have some cash to fit an Edelbrock air gap ® with out being too out of pocket. (check the cast numbers and Google is your friend)

Good work. Keep the photos and infomation coming, your right it does look like the engine was only just built recently.

With that wear mark on the rod brg I would be checking for taper on that crank journal too,check for sign of anything under the brg in that spot. Do you know what rod side clearence it had ? Also knowing the previous crank end float helps for the next build up.

If your rods big end journals do need re-sizing then I'd be fitting arp bolts whilst your at it just for peice and mind.

Hopefully just a deck facing and a nice quick hone to bed the new rings and some new brgs your set.

Have the heads been inserted ?

Good stuff, I appreciate you taking work off early to grab the block out for me for that information. Go grab urself a beer now.

Yeah defently want to sort out that deck height and even go to zero depending on what brand those pistions are. Would'nt want to take precious material away from the block that may be needed on a rebuild down the track say for a stroker configuration.

One other thing I forgot to ask was what roller rockers are you using ?

And do the rods have std bolts or arp ? You can get lucky sometimes. I know you did say your not going to rev it over 5500 in your defense.

Enjoy the build it should go fine. Also do tell us what ratio gears you find.

Carl

Hi, apologies for the 100 questions but you have me wondering, what bore size are you using? And what pistions are you going to have and how many cc on the valve reliefs ?

Also what prep are you doing to the conrods or are they just std ? Will the rotating assembly be balanced ?

Do you know how many cc's you have faced your oc heads to and what pistion to deck height are you aiming for or have? Oil pump drive shaft std or hd ?

Is the carby a dp or vac, spread or square bore ?

Personally if it were my engine I'd be running 3.5 and up diff gears but not too sure what the intended use for this vehicle is.

I think with 3-1s it may be a bit miss behaved correct me if iam wrong.

Thanks Carl

Beat me too it lol ^^^^

Take manifold off. Get a small hacksaw blade and cut down top and bottom the pick it out with a small seal pick.

Then clean out manifold and re-fit.

If its just a bunka engine , hack saw it whilst your buddy holds a vacume cleaner next to it to catch the crap as you saw it.

Ok cool.

That would be the Arrow® you talking about. First I've herd of there being an alloy version but personally I'd be running with cast iron one as it would of had more R&D time.

Each to their own I spose.

Good luck with the build anyway 351xd.

Xd351, If your going to all this trouble for a std re-ringer just do it yourself or chances are the bores will be ovaled and will need a bore out anyway. Is it actually an xe cast number block ?

Ps, if your talking about the Titus alloy block for the next build I would do my reaserch first.there are some drama's so to speak.

Gerg, not trying to go off topic here but i believe the Ambos and Armagaurd vehicles received the better pick of the bunch. Most of the other passenger vehicles including the random esp,police pak and ltd etc got the leftovers after nascar got the good ones. Please correct me if I am wrong.

It doesn't matter how good the sonic test is as that won't find out if a bore is porous. It still gives good information in regards to core shift as mentioned above.

Depending on condition and what block you will want a bore and torque plate hone, possibly a mains hone and cam brgs fitted which will require you to drop the camshaft off. Ask for all the treads especially the deck taped out.

You will need to supply the rotation assembly to have the pistion to deck heights done.

Always helps if you remove all gallery plugs and core plugs for a decent acid bath.

It may take a few blocks to find a good one but a sleeve may be required more than likely. Even look into getting a new Arrow block depending on you hp expectations. It can be cheaper in the long run.

Is your block std bore and what type of combo are you looking at if you don't mind sharing.

Carl

Leave the restriction plate in mate.

Cvr I have run since 2002. No issue's. Cost me 525 back then.

Great little pump.

Also I run an edelbrock mechanical pump on other clevo's of mine , no issues.

What griffo said ^^^

Yellow or white sticker on back say 6 or 8 cylinder.

If its efi it will be a 12v system already.

Some interesting comments above.

Just interesting info:

I've been slowly building a 557ci bb ford for a friends street xa with 11.4 static comp with ported edelbrock heads. we wanted to run it on pump e-85. When I consulted my carb guy for a custom carby he told me my comp wasn't high enough to take full advantage.

We ended up with custom 1050 quick fuel in the end (pump fuel). 4150 flange unfortunately but I think a dommy will end up on there once we want to race it later :-)

Your welcome,

Not dumb at all m8. We are talking clevo's.....should be more of it !

Hey Scottly,

Iam in the process of building a blow through e-85 clevo atm with leftover bits.

393 ci, o-ringed NASCAR clevo block,chi 4v heads, cns 850 blow through carb. crane solid roller,bw 80mm single turbo.

I can't see why the comp of a std clevo will be an issue with cast oc heads.if its not a big dollar engine just slowly turn the wick up.

Just have a good fuel and ignition system and once you throw a rod atleast your turbo engine is setup for the proper boost engine.

Your std pistons/ring gaps and rod bolts would be my first consern.

I don't know what it is but some of the guys over here are pulling big numbers in their std ls wreaked sinks with no rod chucking like the turbo boost is much more progressive on the engine then supercharged.

Its taken a while to get me to the dark side but I have to see what all the fuss is about with this snail stuff!

Hey chris iam keen on that cam if your intersted m8. It would suit a combo I have cheers.

Ps you could check out my tunnel rammed 4v te corty.

I built a 408ci with some std afd 2v heads and a comp 288 roller 11.4 comp and it went quite well on pump on the street in an xd falcon.

It was very tame and crisp. If this basic combo don't get you 10s you've done somthing wrong.

The guy I built the engine for already had the cam kit but if I did it again is go a split cam. I had a few hickups dialing this cam in as the manufacturer had put the dowl pin in the cam in the wrong hole LOL.

Precisions are where i last bought my 302 long rod combo pistons from but was a long time ago. they were a hypotechtic piston (not sure on spelling).

not really a combo i like personally as the valve relief is quite close to the top ring.

good luck with the build

cheers Carl

Edit....my pistons were flat tops but cant remember the releif cc off top of my head.

Man.....you think I go off track (jokes)

Please explain to me how milled oc have better quench then a set of cc heads ? Can't be bothered starting a new thread.

Please keep it simple.

For your info yes iam very old school and I love my cc heads.

the reason i asked,

no closed chamber i would assume, need dome top pistons to get that compression on open chamber heads.

11:1 is plenty of compression for that cam either way.

 i cc'd a set of old open chamber 4v heads i have on shelf and they are 65cc but in your defence  some has been milled off mine i would say.

bore-4.030

stroke-3.7

my oc 4v heads  65cc

generic heads gasket -.040tho

gasket bore-4.080

deck-0

flat top trw pistion valve reliefs and ring rail - 3cc

11.1 to 1 comp

in my opinion 11 to 1 isnt plenty for this cam but it would do ok imho.

bore

Sorry to go off track. Just wanted to know more bout your 378ci combo and your personal experience but you are quite vage ?

This info is to help the guy asking the opening questions, can't see why its not all revelent. After all he's building an old school 378ci and I've done 1 or 2 in the past LOL.

Carry on.....I could talk all day but if you would like me to butt out I will.

Cheers

Carl

nah both were around 11:1 plenty of comp

i take it yours were oc 4v heads then yeah ?

Compression ratio plays big part in how doughy a cam is down low. The extra cubes will bring cam operating range down a few hundred rpm. Get your headflow, timing and compression right and grandma will still take it to bingo no worries

This is reason I asked what comp he had. Run 10 to 1 with the mighty trusty old fashion f246 and I will be a lethargic slug until Mr velocity wakes up !