BBS XE

Yeah LOL I think it's called: You Breaka My Car (or bike), I Breaka Your Face Disease I put some dynagrip on the back of the pads today so I'll see what happens. Fuel line was rattling around on the passenger side too cause the grommet had fell out, maybe that's what it was!

Haha, nah I don't like other people touching her, I'm getting the aircon gassed soon as well. I went through it the other day and got the wiring sorted out (had all been disconnected) so the clutch will kick in with the low pressure switch bypassed. Shop would've sorted it for no charge probably but I just didn't want them pulling trims off and risk damaging anything. I'd say you're probably right about the spacer plates making the noise, I think I can remember them being a loose fit over the pad when I put them in a few months back. If I get a chance tommorow I'll have a look. Cheers.

I haven't touched it yet, too many other jobs ATM. It's got to go for rego in a week so I'll see if I can fix it before then.

Yeah the wheel nuts are tight LOL.

I jacked it up earlier and checked the play and spun the wheel around, seemed fine. I put the plates back in and used anti squeel adhesive stuff on the pads when I replaced them a few months back. The backing plate might be loose on one of the pads, I didn't think they'd make that sort of noise, I'll take the wheel off and have a look tommorow. Thanks.

A few people have told me Knox has better service, I will have to order some for my HK eventually. I've never seen any products from either company, interested to knowof any difference in quality.

Who gives a f**k what series it is, looks ok, would be nicer in black.

For the "High Performance" type: B2-HPG and B6-HPG BX=2: 6 microns BX=75: 20 microns Established Micron Rating: 6 Average Efficiency: 89.35 % Burst PSI: 200 Flow 3PSI: 2GPM 5PSI: 3GPM 15PSI: 6GPM 25PSI: 9GPM Standard: B2 and B6 Filters BX=2: 12 microns BX=75: 30 microns Established Micron Rating: 12 Average Efficiency: 85.2 % Burst PSI: 200 Flow 3PSI: 1.5GPM 5PSI: 3GPM 10PSI: 5GPM 15PSI: 7.5GPM 20PSI: 9GPM 25PSI: 11GPM Looks like I should stick to good old Ryco then!

I just use 20/50 Penrite Everyday, or Valvoline Classic (only cause I've got a heap of it) in my heaps. Change it and the filter every 5000ks. I use Baldwin oil filters when I can get them.

Great work, I've always been told rough finish on inlet side to promote swirl and smooth/polished on exhaust and combustion chamber to prevent carbon build up.

secondhand extractors

I'll order one then, thanks for that.

Anyone know where I can get a half decent new clutch cable for my XE from? I need the XC XD XE style one for drivers side clutch fork (have a T5 with Dellow bellhousing). All I can find online is one from Rare Spares, anyone used theirs before? My old cable must have stretched, I've had to do it up to full adjustment to get into gear, clutch itself is as new.

The ebay one needs an external regulator so if yours is the same it must to.

Can't get a pic of it sorry bud, the car's stored at a relatives place at the moment. The pin kit looks like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-EA-EB-ED-EF-EL-Falcon-Manual-Clutch-Pedal-Pin-Kit-XR6-XR8-Fairlane-/261252592361 Mounted with standard mount: http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTdOhHUUUxp7G6ToiWBFiVANdciIz8-WeM02RvCRPCZg5ff3QyiHg The pedal looks like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Ea-Eb-Ed-Ef-El-Xh-Manual-Clutch-Pedal-May-Suit-Au-Xr6-Xr8-Tickford-/290957014914 I'm sure if you can make something that will do the same job as the pin kit without paying $100 for it.

I use an EL clutch pedal in my XE, atached to the XE auto pedal box with a big nut and bolt with spacers etc (was on the pedal I got out of the EL). The EL pedal is pressed metal and looks a bit different cosmetically but physically they are the same as the earlier ones. I cut the bump stop plates off mine but I don't think it was really necessary.

That's handy then! I've seen a few cheap clusters at swap meets that I could've bought if I knew that.

I could be wrong but I'd say it is just a resistor difference to correct tacho pulses between 6 and 8 cylinder. I've never looked inside said clusters before so wouldn't have a clue where the resistor/s are but a visual id or check with multimeter would tell you the different resistor values. Need someone with both type clusters to pull them apart and check.

Mine did that too when I converted it, just did as dean and bashed the plenum in a bit where it was rubbing.

How you going to get out the car?

My XF T5 has a date stamp on it, 88 with month on dial around it. It's on the right hand side near the front somewhere if I can remember.

If you really mean the second you start it then it must be electrical. Temp sensor/short in wiring/ or the gauge itself could be at fault.

Mate got drilled and slotted RDA's in his C*mm*d*r* and they cracked around the drilled holes within a month. Replacements he got seemed fine though.

I see, pity they had to make them more complicated.

Have you checked for vacuum at the hose? Should be able to feel it with your finger when the switch is on.