Craig

32 minutes ago, Mr Polson said:

If you have a close look on the original it may have the amperage engraved on it. Alternatively@SPArKy_Dave probably knows it off the top of his head too.

Make sure if you get a new one that it's auto reset not manual. Otherwise if it goes off again for any reason you'd have to stop and reset it to get the lights working as opposed to it cooling down and working again by itself.

It's a 25A unit. I'll hit up my local repco during the week and see how it goes from there.

20 minutes ago, Mr Polson said:

29 minutes ago, Craig said:

 
Sounds exactly like my issue, except it occurred on low beam.

I can't remember, but there's either two circuit breakers, one for low one for high, or the main power for the headlights runs through it - and the same issue can occur on either low or high beam.

It's the one circuit breaker for both in mine. The second circuit  breaker (in the wiring diagrams) and the blank spot in the fusebox under the dash is for the power windows.

I'll check out the link to the part and see if I can make it fit in, I put a 25A glass fuse in there for testing/troubleshooting purposes and it can stay there at the moment so the lights all work for pink slip, but i'd like to put it back the way it is supposed to be.

2 hours ago, deankdx said:

 

 

i've never had to change one, what wattage globes do you have fitted? might be an issue with 100/90 globes, which are only going to melt the globe holders not go any brigher..

 

60/55 globes are whats fitted, and if the reflectors aren't rooted then they'll be plenty bright enough.. the plastic adjusters often broken in XE lights, i think rare spares have them, (maybe listed as VH commodore headlight clips? not 100% on that, but got a feeling the reflector might also be the same.. been over 15yrs since i touched XE lights)

 

 

 

They're 60/55's even put new globes in to make sure it wasn't overloading.

37 minutes ago, Mr Polson said:

 

 

 

 

 

My wagon had the same issue when I first got it with the high beams, turn them on and after 15 or so seconds it'd lose power to all lights until the circuit breaker reset. That only had standard 60/55 globes. Changed it out for one from a parts car and it's been fine since. The one I pulled out was pretty rusty and corroded looking on the outside, so couldn't have been to great internally.

 

Sounds exactly like my issue, except it occurred on low beam.

The globes are 60/55's, sound similar symptoms to what I was having before switching it for a fuse.

So, the XE is almost back on the road.. tyres and headlights for rego and we're good to go

The headlights had this weird problem where they'd run for a bit, then turn off, then run for a bit, and turn off and so-on. After checking here and going through the circuit i couldn't find anything really wrong and changed out the circuit breaker for a standard 25A fuse and voila the problem went away. Put the CB back in and the issue returns.

the offending part looks like this:

https://imgur.com/a/oAIf11q

Reading the schematics, it would appear it's the same item as used for the power window circuit too (if they're fitted - mine's a GL with some options so no power windows for me).

Anyone got any ideas on where to get one, the usual parts stores don't seem to have any idea.

Cheers,

Thanks fellas.

Hi Guys,

I'm redoing the top end on the XE, like all good projects it started out as a quick tidy up to replace the lifters and remove some of the ticking in the motor (we're calling it tickless enhanced now), and has now gotten waaay more involved than I intended with a head reco, new rockers, pushrods, lifters, vacuum and heater hoses and a few other bits being replaced.

Due to all the corrosion in the fittings, and I figured i'm already in there, I am working through tidying up the inlet manifold. Somewhere along the line I've scored a couple of inlet manifolds in various boxes of assorted xflow parts, and i'm trying to work out what these black 'plates' are that are well and truly stuck to them.

Any hints as to what they might be?

Link to pic incase the embedding didn't work: https://imgur.com/a/hgGRnH7

Hi guru's, the wagon seems to leak a bit of fuel out the sender when on an incline (or cornering hard), seem the gasket is busted.

Local supercheap have no idea (surprise, surprise), anyone know if this part is still available or can use one from a later model?

This is one for the wagoneers..

My wagon doesn't have the factory jack and handle (that i can find), i'm assuming it should be in the wheel well (the only thing there is the spare wheel), and surprise I need one for the blue slip.

Where has everyone stashed theirs so they don't float around the car whilst driving?

im doing a combi for my youngest daughters bf im charging him $7k ,ive been on the right hand side for 2 weeks now, havent had a chance to look at the rest,lol

He's lucky, if I had turned up with a Kombi to my now father in laws house to pick up my then girlfriend, helping me repair it would have been the last thing he would have done

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And most will still do a shit job of it ^^^^^^^

 

 

you think ,i own my own restoration business i pride myself on good work at the best price.

You anywhere near me ReVhEaD?

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Hi,

Anyone able to recommend a decent (and reasonably priced) rust repair place in Penrith/Blue Mountains?

Always thought XA to XF (or XH) had the same fuel caps for wagons utes and vans, you'll find the fuel spill tray likely says XA Falcon on it (all mine have)

 

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Mine as XA Falcon stamped on it as well.

Local repco has two models available - part numbers SL43EC and SL49EC, Mr Polson any chance you recall the model number of your purchase?

 

Repco carries CPC caps in stock, for fuel, oil and rad. Rad caps in a Repco packet are CPC too.

 

Strange. My wagon has a CPC cap I got from work (Repco), and it fits fine. Definitely specifying wagon when asking for one?

Mine is locking though.

Will take a closer look and see what my local repco store has.

I do know the XD and XE caps are different and the Tridon XD cap fits perfectly on the XD.

The fuel spill thingy is pretty cool and looks the goods with the chrome cap in the centre of it.

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I've had two trident locking ones(different style to the one linked), they sell them at supercheap, the locating tabs on the sides of the body are too long which causes them to bottom out before the locking tabs can fold out and therefore need to be cut/filed down, that's what I did to both of mine and fitment is now perfect

 

 

Closer inspection on the new one I bought for mine it is the same issue. Will get the file out and see how it goes.

 

 

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One question - did you file the lock tabs down or the locating pins (sorry having a dense day).

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I want one of those fuel drip tray thingy whatsits

 

 

 

reckon i got one somewhere, yours if I can find it.......

I saw one advertised on eBay for about $30.

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I've had two trident locking ones(different style to the one linked), they sell them at supercheap, the locating tabs on the sides of the body are too long which causes them to bottom out before the locking tabs can fold out and therefore need to be cut/filed down, that's what I did to both of mine and fitment is now perfect

Closer inspection on the new one I bought for mine it is the same issue. Will get the file out and see how it goes.

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Tried this one http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/484/automotive-caps/2019/fuel-caps-locking/236/TFL220

And the one from the XD. They both fit, but don't latch closed.

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Not sure if this is be right forum, but I'm having some trouble getting a fuel cap for the XE.

It's got one of those fuel spill thingy's on it, and the models recommended by repco et.al don't fit. Anybody else been here before?

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That's one good lookin wagon Ants. Thanks everyone for you advice and input.. now to trawl the wreckers for a suitable donor.

Thanks gerg. This wagon is supposed to be my entry into the spanner turning hobby (always wanted to do it, never got to it), so wanting to do it properly and safely without going overboard.

I'm having trouble sourcing anything before an EF (plenty of EL options too). I'll have a look for the XG option. I'm keen to keep the 14" wheel options open (I think i really want either a set of snowflakes or xd ghia rims on it - or maybe both to give me options, like the mrs with shoes and handbags...). What size rims did you put on the XG rear end?

Awesome thanks! The main reason for the upgrade is better braking with the car trailer on. I'm looking at going 15's anyway as the steelies are easier to come by.

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Thanks! Any reason ED over the later E series?

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The XD is coming  this week and i need to be finishing off the 6 to 8 conversion. The previous owner put the 302C in, bolted to the transmission and it runs. Now I'm looking to upgrade the rear end to a much better option than the 6 diff and drum brakes. For the interim the motor and tranny will be left alone but at some point in the future will upgrade the transmission (when it dies) and may fit a stroker kit when the motor's due.

The XD's role is a bit of daily/rat rod/cruiser and tow car for the other vehicular toys.

I see heaps of E series 6 Cyl conversions being recommended, any advice for the 8 to strengthen the rear end and improve stopping power without going too ridiculous?

Thanks 2redrovers. The sills look pretty good, there is some damage near one of the jacking points on the passengers side (rear), all door jambs also look ok from memory.

Any suggestions on where to look for something not straight and what to check (or whom to have check) underneath the car?