BryceVR

Have you done any more on this.
I'm about to pull the pin on a V2 or V3 for my Corty and I'm eager for any information.

My plan is the MSv3 and an EDIS ignition system.
This should allow for a bigger cam and higher comp. 
Do you have a basic how-to or can you point me toward any useful resources.

Cool idea....

 

Left handed drill bits work the best.

Ezy outs

Stud extractors

Weld a nut on top

Cut a slot with hacksaw, and use a screwdriver

2 nuts tightened together on the thread

You just listed my top 4 but I like...

sharp blow with a hammer can have similar effect

 

Is very good

Vice grips are great for the easy extraction but my favourite is the fine blade high speed cutter cutting the slot for a flat blade screwdriver like Bear said.

 

Another is drill out as much of the broken fastener and use a tap to remove the remaining thread.

 

Used them more than once if you can get a grip and swing, work it back and forth don'y try and turn it out in one go, keep it lubed and use some heeat if you have it.

Drill and tap is the best but ..

I find that a lot of Jap bolts are rubbish, I call them "play-doh" grade. The problem with that is they stretch a lot before breaking off, which locks them in the hole. Very shit to get out and Jap stuff is notoriously hard to get at too.

 

At the other end of the scale, you have Euro gear that generally has really high grade fasteners. If they do fail, it's often a clean break because harder steel is brittle. One example: Mercedes buses used to break sump bolts all the time, on 90% of them you could wind out the broken bit with the end of a scriber as they were 10.9 grade.

 

On a seized thread, heat is always my number 1 method, along with rapid cooling of the bolt with some kind of cutting lube or penetrating oil.

 

Extractors are good if you can get the drill in dead-centre and in line with the hole. If not, you may as well crack out the heli-coil kit as a matter of course.

Asians make components from high grade cheese so if it's a cheap and nasty then drill and tap, the bolt will dissolve under force.

But my favourite is the OXY and a hammer after drilling for an eazy-out then let it cool, some WD and heat it again (it will catch fire but only for a moment)

she'll move then. (try and get the blade boss from a 40year old rover mower and you'll learn a shit load about being stuck)

Before you say it...

I can't use the original computer because weight, loads cam etc. etc. etc.
Even with engine stock, the engine would be unmanageable due to loads, gearing etc.

Dropping an effective aftermarket ECU is fairly simple but painstaking.

Turbo the efi motor and you have the best of both worlds

Great idea but...

Can't run injection in comp. must run original induction and spark. So I can run a electronic dizzy but not a Megajolt etc

You get the idea.

I may turbo the EFI down the track (I LOVE turbos) but first I have to get it in the car and running.

A pre-loved haltech and a few hours with a soldering iron and I reckon I'll make it go but still need to swap back easily.

I see the biggest issue is the fuel pump so I'll mount them an hardpoint bracket and swap at the same time seems to me to be the easiest option.

As you all know to crack 200KW is about $10k but, you can get 170-180kw for less than half that.

with a 950Kg car, it's enough to stomp on most "special vehicles". So if I get about that using a stocker, a cam and a good EFI setup I'm a happy camper.

So we have this

to go into this

roughly.

I have no recent pictures of the Corty as she was put away about 4 years ago with some panels in primer and a few bits incomplete.

I'm here now because I'm about to restart the 12 year project.

I've seen that 4L motor in a LJ with dual carbs and some cams, it was insane, revved to 9k with exhaust crackle on overrun 

 

car's been running great with the msd now, building a C4 for it, waiting for a new Belleville spring

 Yeah I reckon it's the best engine of the last 30 years, though I'd love to get my paws on a "coyote" crate motor and see what I could do.

SO, you finally got it sorted. Good value. Lots of luck on the 11's, tough nut to crack, that elusive sub 12.

I still lean toward a MegaJolt and coil packs of coil on plug.

I think the key is your diff gears which you dont mention.

If you look at what LJDB setup is and notice that the diff gears are shortish that is really what helps give the car the low down feeling.

I know this because I had a solid roller cam crossflow with a 4 speed single rail that would "come on cam" at around the 3500rpm but had enough torque down low to push the car along quite will, my car had 2.92 diff gears which tamed down the 283rwhp engine on the street but gave it legs and meant that it felt "lazy" off cam.

The clutch I used in my car is an Exedy cushion button clutch and it had feel like a standard clutch but just slightly firmer. I also had a lighten flywheel which may also have help with the "lighter clutch feel". If your interested I am selling my clutch and lightened flywheel, they only travelled 500kms before being removed from the car.

The car goes like a bat out of hell but not really fun in traffic etc.

That's why the EFI option for just running around. When I want to go to the track I'd just swap back to the manual, carby engine and run a shakedown.

I'd just like to drive it a bit more and it's a bit precocious for just going for a quick spin.

PM me about the clutch, I'm always on the lookout for improved kit.

What model Corty is it? Mine was a TF and since mine had an efi engine already (running a WW strommy) I also toyed with the idea of efi but found that #6 runner would have fouled the heater box and/or firewall. I went straight gas in the end.

 

I'm sure someone on here has done it, but I could also suggest getting an EA-ED log manifold and adapting that to the crossflow flange but use all the EEC-5 gear including computer (also done by folks on here) and do away with the vane meter of the XE-XF setup.

No heater box, no heater, no battery, no fuel pump, just a Davis Craig elec water pump. It will fit with enough room to throw a party under the bonnet. Setting up both fuel deliveries is really all that concerns me I think?

What diff gears have you got. I have Te 4 speed, 3.7 diff gears, camtech 510, 4bbl holley ect and it takes off like a rocket and can easily pull top gear at lower speeds. Id be looking into this first.

When I had a 500 on it, it went even better down.

I have 3 diffs, one EA LSD for track/street, a hillclimb diff (a 3.45 from memory) and a locker. A Corty runs smaller wheels so all diffs effectively are 1 or 2 steps shorter than a Falcon diff.

Changing the diff is a 15 minute job so I'd just do that when I swapped donks.

I was thinking of the 2.92 for the EFI. Not an overworked engine just a cam, roller rockers and some headwork with a 2 1/2" etc.

EFI let's you tune most gremlins out with the software so, I was thinking it would just let me get a bit more use out of the car instead of the 5-6 times a year it gets run now.

I've got an A frame and a block and tackle so an engine swap is not a real hassle, saving for a hoist now, got the money for the hoist but working on the concrete slab to put it on, you need 16 ft of head room on top of the slab. 

So,

I have this tidy Cortina, its got a 500 Holley, and a good cam (too much really) and goes like a screamer but spits unburnt juice at idle (that's normal) and needs 3K to get going with a schwezenger type clutch.
I also have a reasonably low mileage EFI engine in perfect condition.
Driving the HiPo engine is fun but a bit of an effort, Clutch is hard, it's tweaky in traffic etc and I only really give it a go every 3 months or so.

I've spent more on the chassis than I'd really like to think about and thought I'd drop the HiPo engine out and leave it with the EFI engine for day to day, given that the new club plate rules give me more opportunities to use the car.

My thinking is to put in a tap for the tank to switch between the Hi pressure EFI and the Lo Pressure carby pump and simply lift the engine/gearbox out and swap.
The carby engine is good for lots of HP, but a good well setup EFI will still give me 250+ hp with an auto for around town.
I'd like to hear what you all think, an engine swap is about a 2hr job so I'll keep the HiPo for competition but using the car gives me a chance to sort the chassis a bit better.
I'd set up the EFI with a wolf/Haltech/Motech/ whatever brand I can score at a good price and leave the crusty trusty BW35 there.
 

That of course is Beethovens 9th...  

i've taken honda's to 9k and don't care what anyone says but those things are amazing at 9k, vibrations, induction noise is awesome but my next project will be a 9k ford with carb induction

Yep, there's a song that plays at about 10k that's like a Mozart chorus...

An Ode to Joy almost..

If I was going for a top end motor for my use (track and hillclimb). I'd be finding a an LS400 lexus V8 engine.
I've seen the comp ski boat guys running them and they're just incredible.

I'm trying to keep in class, so, no injection, original options, period upgrades etc, etc, etc...

yes they do, they don't paint the 7 and 8 series gold for no reason but  if you're going to keep the car then it's ok, next engine will spin to 9k (not a crossflow but still a ford) so i see it at an investment, I'll always stick to a carb for these old box cars so there is not much else out there unless as you said, get the soldering iron out

I reckon a Barra with locked cam gear and enough cam will spin to 9k but if I was spending that dough, I'd by a coyote 5L crate motor and work with that.

there is a special thrill when an engine hits 10k isn't there?

All the bits just sing to you.
I've played with the odd 'Busa and they're a unique thrill.

A 'busa with 38mm DeLorrto bodies, 270hp from 1.3 litres.

Crank triggered, HiPo coils (preferably coil per) and a good programmable.
Whatever brand, is the go.

Hope you get your head around the MSD, I go for stuff that's more open source.

Even running a 10sec car, spark is not your problem and I'll run 13's with a standard coil and dist and don't think that that's where I my issue is, More air and a better driver seem to be my issues.

They rape you for the MSD extras that can be farmed from production cars at 1/10th the price and a soldering iron.

There's shit I can do with a megaJolt via USB that confuses me and I'm considered a smart arse with this stuff.
Just running the parallel curves are there, trigger #1, trigger#2, trigger#3 etc so if you get a Hi/Lo from the box then it will shift the curves.

Their real beauty is clean laptop interface, LINUX for the win. Without the brand name overhead.

Base time is +32 and it will reference back from there?

Sorry about my blunt responses early but I've seen so many "Why wont my car start" threads to be a bit cynical.

I'll still stand by my earlier advice but, in your case..
I'd go with a CDI or surf the MSD but as I said I've had nothing but issues with them.

I suppose it's worth a few tenths in quarter squirt.

Assuming Launch, run, final. and all at close to full tilt boogie, then wouldn't the mappings be close?

Apart from launch I mean?

I'd think injection timing was more important.

you have 2 options

 

1. it has 3 wires  for gears 1-3 as you add 12V o them it increases gear count, then from 4 and 5 via RPM drop (programable)

2. RPM drop, when gearbox shifts it will indicate next curve (bad for peddling)

 

it's very drag racing orientated you also have retard based on timing, let off the transpbrake and it starts retarding based on time (programable), you can also use slew where it would not let RPM accelerate more than X per min where X is your variable, has MAP timing curve as well if you want it, awesome for pops and bangs 

So it changes advance against load not revs? To a degree it does this presumptuously.

and then effectively works as a load/rev balance. Clever but complicated.

So in the end we can tell every who uses an MSD to set base time retarded to 35* and let the unit adjust forward as required.
Is this correct?
Then the unit will adjust forward as required, but if the base is negative it will ignore the base time and then assume -35* .

If this is correct then let the users know so that they have a solution.

the TFI dizzy is fixed  and the 7531 MSD is fully programable, by default they come with 0 timing so you just advance the dizzy to 35degrees and pull timing with the MSD, the MSD can only pull timing.

 

the issue with the 7 series is that it has 3 wires for 3 speeds, one curve per gear so if you don't use that feature you will need to copy one curve to all the gears

So how does it trigger from gearbox? or does it assume sequential shidfts need different curves?

1amp and 40.000 volts HURT

Yup it sits you on your arse in a hurry

well the MSD fixed it, had to wait a bit for the USB adapter so i can fix the ignition curves, the 7 series is a bit different, it don't have 1 ignition curve it has 3-6, one per gear either via wire switch or RPM drop so I made one good curve and copied to all the gears, set max gears to 2 and she is good now

 

Why didn't the MSD give youa base curve?

2:20 is good at Mnt Rama, I got to 1:1.34 around the QR sprint track in an X series, wasn't easy but they are light and can outbrake 80% of the cars, i reckon with a set of good 245 R888 in the rear it would of gone faster, i was using 270's never got them hot enough and the front springs were never what Kmac was told to make

I only run Bathurst, Wakefield and Eastern creek and then mainly with a formula Vee.

The Corty keeps getting delayed.

Look at a Coil-on-plug or coil pak solution though.

Cheers

Getting the curve on an MSD was a nightmare
Good to see you got it sorted though.
I always go to absolute basics and then work the problem, was yours a coil in the end?

I dream of 11's too

But under 2:20 on panorama is my goal.

For that I need brakes, chasis and throttle control, we'll go there in another chapter.

I've got MSD's, megaJolts, and about everything that's ever been sold.
A good Electronic will do 99.9 % of mods.
Then coil pack MegaJolt with a chopper wheel.
Biggest waste of money I ever spent was the MSD, (apart from triple webers) it wasn't bad but just several hundred dollars that I could have soldered up myself and then it was a hundred miles behind a megaJolt in configuration options.